John
1948 posts
Joined: 28/05/2006 16:49:46
Location: cambridge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Removing Front Drums - Help
mind the backplate tho its very thin metal and will bend easily.
Posted: Oct 03, 2007 07:36 PM
Tim
1848 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Rear bearing rubbing dust cover
When you say the seal has been rubbing against the "drum" do you really mean the brake backplate? This would imply that the seal is sitting proud of the hub assembly, when it should be flush with the end. And if you put the original seals in and still had problems, I would suggest something else is wrong. Did you replace the spacer between the bearings or keep the old one?
Posted: Jul 20, 2016 09:10 PM
Oil breather pipe
You need to vent it into the air filter. If your K&N hasn't got a hole in the backplate, it's easy enough to drill a hole. Make it just large enough so that you can push the end of the breather pipe in (1/2" heater hose will do) and hold it tight.
Posted: Mar 05, 2021 10:06 AM
Simon@minispares.com
94 posts
Joined: 08/09/2004 21:32:29
Location: fdgfghgfjgj United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Fitting
Fitting is pretty straight forward, take the air filter assembly off, and you will see a, alloy elbow at the back of the carb held on with 2 screws. Remove this, keeping the 2 screws. Then mount the air filter backplate onto the carb using these screws, and re-assemble the K&N onto the the base plate. Should take a novice no more than half hour max.
Posted: Nov 22, 2004 11:21 AM
kevin shaw
26 posts
Joined: 24/01/2005 13:37:30
Location: Boston United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Front drum brake adjusters
I cannot move the front adjusters, but have managed to remove the drum. Is there a better alternative than replacing the backplates as there are £45 ie can i replace just the adjusters, or has anyone got any other tips?
Posted: Dec 11, 2005 05:16 PM
spike6511
17 posts
Joined: 15/06/2005 12:12:12
Location: Bracknell United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Rear Brakes
HI All, Need a little advice on the following. I have stripped down my rear brakes, and aim to repaint them, my question is this, what kind of paint should I use on the backplate, I know on the drums I need high temperature paint, would this also apply to the backplates. Many thanks in advance. Steve
Posted: Feb 26, 2006 12:59 PM
Roy
261 posts
Joined: 19/09/2005 19:34:20
Location: huntingdon United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
clunk sound from rear under braking
Just a thought!......when you fill up, does it knock then?.....if not could it be the float on the fuel guage moving around or the fuel tank itself! you dont say if its a light or heavy clunk (you know, the kind of thing you can feel through the floor!) or if it occurs under heavy or light braking. It could concievably be the brake backplate/s moving under heavy braking or as i mentioned before, subframe mounts.....
Posted: Feb 19, 2007 06:11 PM
Ray
4 posts
Joined: 01/06/2008 19:04:20
Location: Hamrun Malta
rear brake shoes
The rear brake shoes on my 1969 Austin Mini keep clanking against the backplate at every bump while driving, and is getting quite annoying! Any suggestions??
Posted: Sep 11, 2008 07:10 PM
Liirge
2 posts
Joined: 16/09/2007 19:42:23
Location: Goudhurst United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Parts
Hello,
I hope this is the right place for this but i need to query parts on this site to see if they will Fit on to a 1966 Morris Mini Moke, with the 10" Wheels.
The following parts i'm hoping will fit, please correct me if im wrong.
R\H Rear Brake Backplate built up kit, 21A1058KIT
L\H Rear Brake Backplate built up Kit, 21A1060KIT
R\H Front Brake Backplate built up kit, 37H2013KIT
L\H Front Brake Backplate built up Kit, 37H2014KIT
Brake Master Cylinder, GMC171
Clutch Master Cylinder,GMC1008
Clutch Slave Cylinder Pre Verto, GSY110
Thankyou very much, iam very eager to hear your responses and to get this project moving!!
Regards
Alastair.
Posted: Oct 30, 2007 05:14 PM
Barry Brown
511 posts
Joined: 23/06/2008 12:08:31
Location: New Barn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Rear brake drum
Hi Erika, Do not put spacers between the hub and the drum. The chances are that the back plate became damaged while trying to remove the drum if the adjuster wasn't backed off. Remove the drum and take the brake pads off again. Now refit the drum and screw it to the hub. mark the point where it rubs on the backplate, remove the drum again and usung a block of wood and hammer carefully 'dress' the backplate back into shape (i.e. hammer it away from the drum) until you have no rubbing. Now refit the shoes, adjust them and refit the drum.
Tip: when you have the shoes out remove the adjuster completely and grease it with copper grease before refitting as this is an achilles heel as far as mini brakes are concerned. It will pay off in the long term if you spend an extra couple of minutes this time around.
Posted: May 22, 2013 02:59 PM
Rear 7inch Brake drums Rubbing
If it's making a metallic scraping sort of noise, then it's almost certainly the drum rubbing on the backplate. The backplate is fairly soft metal so it's easy to bend or hammer out of the way.
If it's the drum rubbing on the new shoes, that's fairly normal. Try backing off the adjusters until the noise goes away, then re-tighten. The shoes will bed in after a few hundred miles anyway.
Posted: Mar 28, 2018 06:47 AM
163 posts
Joined: 09/09/2004 09:32:06
Location: DK-2000 Frederiksberg Denmark
Drive strap?
I take it youve got a pre-verto clutch. Did you align the drive straps properly when you had the backplate, disk and flywheel on the bench? Also, check the return stop screw adjustment - remove the spring from the slave cylinder, ask dad to push the pedal about an inch or so until the slack is taken out of the system. Now you turn the 7/16 screw until it just contacts the arm and back in 1 flat. Nip up the locknut, replace the spring and you should be OK on this adjustment.
Posted: Mar 06, 2005 12:11 AM
JK
11 posts
Joined: 15/09/2004 16:53:23
Location: WESTCLIFF ON SEA United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
A NEW DIAPHRAGM CLUTCH.
IN NOVEMBER I FINALLY DECIDED TO REPLACE MY SLIPPING VERTO CLUTCH WITH THE STRONGER DIAPHRAM TYPE. flywheel,slave cylinder.. everything needed to do the job. can anyone sugest why when i release the clutch the car becomes juddery??have taken it to bits for the 3rd time now but i am confused. firstly: there is no balance mark on the QH back-plate, anywhere. i phoned mini-spares and questioned this but the man i spoke to did not know what i was talking about then said this did not matter. also (sugested in the articles here) the spacers between the straps and flywheel and are not in alignment with the horns of the backplate, they are a little bit above the horns, about 2 or 3 mm. the guy on the phone didnt have a clue about this either. i had a go at shaving some metal off them to make them shorter but this in turn did not work (bit wonky), and mini-spares will not send me any new ones as they are only for new flywheels. any sugestions would cheer this depressed man up!
Posted: Feb 19, 2005 04:52 PM
PJelf
3 posts
Joined: 09/08/2005 01:53:45
Location: Southampton United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Braided brake hoses
I've discovered that one of the adjustors has seized and am replacing the backplate, so hopefully this might help with the problem.
Posted: Aug 18, 2007 12:07 AM
Fitting Superfins
It's pretty straight forward; jack up the car and support with jackstands under the rear subby. Then, simply remove the rear wheels, back-off the brake shoe adjusters and unscrew the 2 screws which hold the drums to the hubs. Remove the drums and install the new Superfins, using a small amount of anti-sieze compound on the 2 retaining screw threads and re-install the wheels (torque them properly).
Be sure to re-adjust the brake shoes (Turn the adjustment nut on the rear of the backplate so that the wheel locks up and then back it off one or two 'flats' so that there is a light drag on the wheel) (Consult your Haynes manual if you're unsure how to do this.) Lower the car to the ground and fire it up!
Posted: May 03, 2006 11:17 AM
Handbrake - seems to adjust, but no friction!!
It's difficult to know what's going wrong here, but the easiest thing to do is pop one of the drums off again and watch as someone activates the handbrake. You should be able to see the shoes moving - assuming you've got the little levers engaged in the slots in the shoes correctly.
If everything looks to be working properly, then it must be the adjustment on the backplate adjusters. Don't overtighten the handbrake cable!
Posted: Jun 13, 2006 10:15 AM
Beam axle & Gaz Coil shox conversion
Looking at your pictures, I would say that you have mounted the shock absorbers the correct way round, with the larger flange away from the backplate - I suspect you would have clearance issues with the spring rubbing against the inner wheelarch if you tried them the other way, and that must be why they're offset like that.
I don't think it matters which way the adjuster is pointing - I suspect they will be pointing different directions on each side anyway.
Posted: Aug 31, 2011 08:48 AM
lindsay
Joined: 05/02/2007 12:43:02
Location: Arbroath United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
My project arrived with the front brakes pretty much seized up having sat for ~10 years. I was surprised that I could actually free the adjusters and after a bit of hammering round the drum the wheels rotate (reasonably) freely.
There is no way I can get the drums off though. Whats the secret? The shoes have obviously worn a lip in the drum and the lip is stopping the drum coming off the shoes.
As pretty much everything needs replaced or repaired anyway is it OK to cut out bits of the backplate to access the back of the drum with a drift, or will that not work?
Help!!
Posted: Oct 03, 2007 04:48 PM
a. lagor
Joined: 31/03/2007 18:22:53
Location: Farnborough United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Help, Nut has rounded itself off and won't budge
hi fella's
trying to replace the rear shocks on my Mini 30 but the drivers side nut behing the backplate is seased and i've used nearly a whole can of WD40 trying to move it and the nut has rounded itself
anyone know how to remove it or if there is a part that will help
cheers in advance Andy
Posted: Aug 04, 2007 08:25 PM
shaun
10 posts
Joined: 08/12/2008 19:46:48
Location: much wenlock United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
tensioner
ok thanks
so does any one else know if all a series engines had tensioners? or is it a possibility that someone has changed the backplate and cover to a later one so they could fit a tensioner?
thanks
Shaun
Posted: Jan 01, 2009 09:52 PM