CAM TIMING - Conventional method using DTI, etc...

Equipment required - one 0.500” minimum capacity DTI with magnetic stand, 360-degree protractor and a piece of reasonably thick gauge wire to use as a pointer. Terminology - DTI - Dial Test Indicator/dial gauge Protractor - degree wheel TDC - Top Dead Centre, when piston is at highest point in bore BTDC - Before Top Dead Centre, before piston reaches highest point in bore ATDC - After Top Dead Centre, after piston has reached highest point in bore. Rotate crank so piston one is at the bore top (TDC). Fit timing gears 'dot-to-dot'. Set up DTI with stem resting on number one piston centre with a little preload. Rotate crank backwards slightly (anti-clockwise looking at the front), then gently forwards observing the DTI, watching where the needle stops before descending. This is TDC. Repeat this procedure, stopping when the needle reaches its zenith. Zero the dial scale, and repeat until satisfied the needle shows zero on the scale.

CAM TIMING - Mechanical Method

CAM TIMING - Mechanical Method Part No Applications: MD256, MD266, MD276, MD286, MD286SP, MD296, MD296SP, MD310SP, MD530, MDM266/KIT, MDM276KIT, MDM286KIT Equipment required - Stop plate - mechanical stop plate for setting TDC (see text). Set of feeler blades Terminology - TDC - Top Dead Centre, when piston is at highest point in bore BTDC - Before Top Dead Centre, before piston reaches highest point in bore ATDC - After Top Dead Centre, after piston has reached highest point in bore Accurate piston position indication is the first goal. You need to know exactly when piston one is at TDC. Without engineering measuring equipment a ‘stop plate’ is required. This you will either have to manufacture personally, or get one made. You need a piece of metal plate long enough to span the bore plus a couple of the head stud holes on either side - about 4.750" long by 1.375" wide will do the trick.

CAM TIMING - Basic Notes

To avoid lots of swearing and unnecessary damage, check the timing gears slide neatly onto their respective bosses. If tight, first check for any high spots in the gear bores and key-way slots. Clean out using with fine emery cloth, medium Wet 'n' Dry paper, or some such. Remove the Woodruff keys then dress the bosses using abrasive material as mentioned previously. Re-check fitment before re-fitting keys. Check the key-ways and keys too before re-fitting. Get rid of unwanted sticky-out bits on the keys that would inhibit a slide fit. Clean out the key-way and de-burr top edges. I always file a slight 'flat' across them to give plenty of clearance to the gear key slot. If the pulley is a slack fit on the key, turn it anticlockwise before nipping the bolt up. ALWAYS fit it like this. It's imperative to fit cam (and followers in the case of solid wall blocks) following manufacturers instructions precisely using a good quality cam lube.

Crankshaft - Standard Production Crank Identification

Yes, contrary to what many say/express, all cranks are forged. None are cast. They wouldn't last 2 minutes in an engine if they were cast - they'd be way too brittle. Below is a list of crankshaft identification data by forging or stamped numbers - yes, contrary to what many say/express, all cranks are forged. None are cast. They wouldn't last 2 minutes in an engine if they were cast - they'd be way too brittle. The differences are in the material used, finish machining detail and any heat treatments applied. It is by no means complete and utterly correct/infallible since Austin/Morris, British Leyland, Leyland cars, Austin Rover, rover, et al were seriously prone to not adhering to specifications and applications lists. But it is better than nothing at all! 22A62 850cc - Early type with oil feed for primary gear, 1.375" dia. tail 22A63 850cc - Early type with oil feed for primary gear, 1.375" dia. tail

Engine - Running in Procedure

This is another of those subjects that crops up on the message board frequently. I am constantly surprised by the number of engine builders - or people who charge other folk for building engines at any rate - that never hand out such an information sheet. It seems pretty daft to me that having taken a wad of money off of a customer for an engine you've lovingly put together, you'd want to help that person get the very best out of the engine. And the running/breaking in procedure is absolutely crucial. It at least ensures no damage is incurred when the engine first bursts into life. A collection of the usual suspects have explained their own methods on the board, along with various others - many of which probably work just as well for them, a few which are down-right dubious. Following is a sheet I administer with every customer engine I build.

Thread Locking Compounds - Application

This is the frequently abused and mis-used stuff dolloped on to bolts/nuts to stop them coming undone. Having seen and heard of many horror stories concerning this stuff, I thought a few words of caution and common sense wouldn't go amiss.

There is a plethora of types on the market with no easy reference as to which to use for what application except in certain cases. Loctite have a very useful guide, their dealers generally able to help with choosing which is best for any given application. The trouble comes when folk buy stuff unwittingly from their local 'do it all' motorist/car spares place. Good stuff is expensive, and it doesn't go all that far. But at least it does its job when used in the correct applications. Unfortunately many buy a cheaper variety with not quite the same application strength, and then apply twice as much hoping it will do the job. It doesn't.

Thread Locking Compounds - Application

This is the frequently abused and mis-used stuff dolloped on to bolts/nuts to stop them coming undone. Having seen and heard of many horror stories concerning this stuff, I thought a few words of caution and common sense wouldn't go amiss.

There is a plethora of types on the market with no easy reference as to which to use for what application except in certain cases. Loctite have a very useful guide, their dealers generally able to help with choosing which is best for any given application. The trouble comes when folk buy stuff unwittingly from their local 'do it all' motorist/car spares place. Good stuff is expensive, and it doesn't go all that far. But at least it does its job when used in the correct applications. Unfortunately many buy a cheaper variety with not quite the same application strength, and then apply twice as much hoping it will do the job. It doesn't.

CHANGING FROM DYNAMO TO ALTERNATOR

Completing this change successfully, easily and neatly is pretty straightforward on a Mini. The alternator contains the regulator and cut out functions within it’s casing, so makes the regulator box used with a dynamo redundant.

Part No Applications: GEU205, GEU205MS, GEU207, GXE2297
However, it is useful to retain the box itself and it’s connectors. It acts as a terminal box to make the installation neat, avoiding the messy and awkward soldering/taping together bunches of wires. It also maintains a period look, plus makes reversal easy should this be needed in the future.

Disconnect the battery and remove the black regulator box from the car - taking care to make a note of or label each wire removed with it’s original terminal connection. Fit the alternator using the necessary rear support bracket (part no. 12G1053) as the alter

Cooling - Controlling water temperature

The introduction of the Cooper S proved to be a testing time for the Mini’s systems, but conveniently provide a guideline as to what the standard cooling system was capable of - that used on the ‘S’ was marginal to say the least!

It wasn’t uncommon for many S’s to spew water from their overflow pipes when ever it was doing anything other than a steady 70 miles an hour, over-heating eventually caused through water loss. Perhaps some deductions can be made from the following…

There are a number of elements involved in controlling water temperature. Some confusion over what to sort first when over-heating occurs leads to wasted time and money, and possibly terminal engine damage. Maximum power is usually generated from A-series engines at 70 – 75 degrees C (160 to 170 degrees F). The main problem with this on a road car is the oil’s unlikely to get hot enough for maximum performance – the results outlined previously.

Distributor - Initial ignition timing set-up.

Any deviation away from the original standard engine specification, or where a dizzy from another source is used in the engine you have, the ignition timing will generally be different from that set by the manufacturer.

Terminology -
Dizzy - Distributor
TDC - Top Dead Centre
BTDC - Before Top Dead Centre
ATDC - After Top Dead Centre
CR - Compression Ratio

Tacho - Tachometer, rev counter (not to be confused with Mexican food delicacy!)
Vac - vacuum (pipe, unit, etc.)

Any deviation away from the original standard engine specification, or where a dizzy from another source is used in the engine you have, the ignition timing will generally be different from that set by the manufacturer.

Distributor - What the A-Series needs.

Any dizzy can be set to get maximum power. No problem. Unfortunately that's only one spot on the whole power curve/rpm range. If the curve isn't right elsewhere, the engine will be either loosing power - in some instances by substantial amounts - or detonating its self into oblivion and a costly re-build.

Terminology -
Dizzy - Distributor
CR - Compression Ratio
VE - Volumetric Efficiency

Large-bore engines are less fussy about exacting ignition requirements than small-bores. The 1100-type being the most difficult to get right, with very particular requirements mid-range when tuned and worlds apart from large-bore curves. This should be remembered when swapping distributors from one engine to another. An 1100 dizzy in a 1275 will at run OK, but a 1275 in an 1100 can be courting disaster.

RUNNING IN NEW ENGINES

Install engine. It is absolutely imperative that the cooling system is more than sufficient to deal with any temperatures likely to be produced by the engine. More power means more heat to be dissipated. A standard radiator is very unlikely to be able to cope with a reasonable power increase over standard.

Do not fill cooling system yet. Set clutch throw-out and free-play take up. Double-check all connections electrical, oil, fuel and cooling system. Put in engine oil – use a cheap multi-grade mineral oil. DO NOT use either semi or full synthetic oils. They will stop the rings from bedding in. Remove spark plugs, and spin engine over in bursts of a few seconds to pick up oil pressure and prevent starter motor damage. DO NOT start engine until oil pressure picks up.

Once oil pressure is showing, check ignition timing statically. Set to figure advised by distributor maker, or if no figures available, set at around 6-8 degrees BTDC. Re-fit spark plugs a

Engine transplants - Ancillary parts

Engine mountings are a whizz to fit as the Mini ones fit straight onto any of the other units. Just remove the Metro/AA/1300GT ones and swop the mounts over from the Mini unit. If they’re split, fit new ones, they’re cheap.

Terminology -
BBU - Big Bore Unit
SBU - Small Bore Unit

NOTE: This information covers transplanting large-bore engine units into small-bore engined Minis. For further information for exact differences between pre-A+ and A+ units, see relevant separate article.

Engine mountings and steady bars.
Engine mountings are a whizz to fit as the Mini ones fit straight onto any of the other units. Just remove the Metro/AA/1300GT ones and swop the mounts over from the Mini unit. If they’re split, fit new ones, they’re cheap. If using the AA/1300GT unit - it's advisable to cut off the 'wings' on the front plate that carried the engine mounts on the radiator end.

Ignition - Establishing a TDC reference point

Establishing an accurate TDC reference point is of paramount importance when developing and monitoring ignition timing (and cam timing come to that). Terminology - TDC - Top Dead Centre BTDC - Before Top Dead Centre Establishing an accurate TDC reference point is of paramount importance when developing and monitoring ignition timing (and cam timing come to that). When an experienced engine builder assembles an engine - no matter whether for road or race - he will establish an accurate TDC indicator that can be used for ignition purposes. Usually contrived as a rigid pointer aligning to a corresponding mark on the crank pulley in a position easy to see with the engine installed. Unfortunately, many of us have to deal with engines that haven't had such attention to detail - so either have to make do with the standard ignition timing graduated scale if it's there or sort something else out.

Injection Cars - Tuning up-date

OK, so what's happened to the Min Tec/Mini Spares development program?

It has been a long time between my first few words on basic injection car tuning and these - for that I apologise, but business has been unbelievably fraught this year.

I did promise regular and frequent up-dates, but the best laid plans, and all that… As I said, business has been more than brisk.

OK, so what's happened to the Min Tec/Mini Spares development program? Apart from a whole lot of investigation and repetitive research into what's available currently - not that much. It is all hinging on this forthcoming ECU from this particular company. Unfortunately the company concerned is not run by businessman or automotive engineers. They are electronics whiz kids who are trying to achieve the Holy Grail.

C-AJJ3322 - MINI SPARES FIXED ADJUSTMENT BELT DRIVE KIT

The application of this drive system maintains very accurate and consistent cam and ignition timing, and minimises valve train noise - desirable advantages that do not diminish with time. The fibreglass reinforced belt all but eliminates the excessive stretch suffered by chain driven systems-even when a tensioner is used.

C-AJJ3328 MINI SPARES VERNIER ADJUSTABLE CAM BELT DRIVE

No Longer Available see C-AJJ3328RACE

The ubiquitous toothed belt cam drive system, originally developed for high performance race engines, is now generally accepted as the norm on all state of the art modern engines.

C-AJJ3328RACE MINI SPARES VERNIER ADJUSTABLE CAM BELT DRIVE KIT - FITTING INSTRU...

The application of this drive system maintains very accurate and consistent cam and ignition timing, and minimising valve train noise. Desireable advantages that do not diminish with time. The fiberglass reinforced belt all but eliminates the excessive stretch suffered by chain driven systems - even where a tensioner is used.

C-AEG455, C-AEG476, C-AEG477, C-AEG478, C-AEG479, C-AEG480 - TOOTH-BELT DRIVE SY...

These systems have been developed where positive drive is required for water pump and charging system.

They circumvent problems caused by standard ‘V’ belts being turned or thrown because of ill-fitting belts or mis-aligned pulleys.

C-AJJ3326 MINI SPARES SLIDE ADJUSTABLE BELT DRIVE KIT

The application of this drive system maintains very accurate and consistent cam and ignition timing, and minimising valve train noise. Desirable advantages that do not diminish with time. The fiberglass reinforced belt eliminates the excessive stretch suffered by chain driven systems - even where a tensioner is used. The protracted control of cam and ignition timing maintains peak performance. Chain drives cause excessive timing scatter, even after relatively short periods of running. The MINI SPARES kit enables A-series owners to benefit from such technology. The adjustable cam gear in this kit allows up to 9 degrees of adjustment, facilitating accurate cam timing. An absolute must when installing a performance camshaft.

FITMENT: Remove the original timing cover. Position gears so that the timing marks on cam and crank gears are adjacent, then remove gears/chain assembly. Remove locating keys. Clean cam and crank gear boss surfaces, ensuring new gears are no more than a l