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Engine - Metro engine identification data

The widespread and prolific fitment of Metro engines into Minis - usually those endowed as standard with small-bore (850/998/1098) engines - practiced in the UK has been spreading to many other countries worldwide.

So it's not surprising that the most commonly asked question has also become more prolific concerning the fitment of said engine - apart from actually how to manage the transplant and the differences in the installations, covered in articles relevant article on this site - is just which type of engine the individual concerned has bought or what they already have fitted to their car and is it worth keeping or junking. One initial question I pose often draws a pregnant silence whilst said inquiree scrambles their brains trying to find an answer for. Following that protracted pause, 'I dunno' is the usual answer. I then have to get into a lengthy explanation as to how to determine what said engine is.

The Verto/Valeo type diaphragm included the pressure plate in its assembly, much like a 'normal' car set-up. The spring being of the 'finger' type as opposed to the disc spring used on earlier, three-piece assemblies. There were originally three diaphragm specifications using progressively stronger springs - small-bore, big-bore, and Metro Turbo. Later joined by the type used on the injection cars, though most definitely not interchangeable. Initially, the biggest problem was the Turbo ones were never really available on their own. If you wanted one you had to buy a whole clutch/flywheel assembly - the cost exorbitant. Rover originally believed that if the clutch plate was worn out, then the flywheel and pressure plate would be too. It has only been recent times that the diaphragm/pressure plate has been available on it’s own - but not until after the Turbo unit became unavailable. Even that has changed recently with the cessation of the Turbo diaphragm as a service part.

There is only one original Verto/Valeo clutch plate and is fashioned more like a ‘conventional’ clutch plate - it has a sprung centre section. Four springs around the centre section of the plate take up shock, and supposedly reduce the likelihood of judder. It was an attempt by Rover to improve the clutch take-up and engagement to make is more like a 'modern' car. Except it didn't. The engagement feels wooly at best, and judders horribly at worst. They even went as far as making two plates, one for small-bore, one for big-bore. The difference being the centre spring tensions! From experience, judder is caused by undulating flywheel/pressure plate surfaces, or ‘breakfast cereal packet’ lined non-genuine plates. It's OK, but if any warming up of the engines output is considered, definitely go for the pre Verto plate. This will fit with the Verto set-up and is a cheaper into the bargin. The Metro Turbo had a Verto flywheel type, but the clutch had the more familiar solid centre of the p

GEARBOX - Syncro vs 'Dog' engagement

NOTE

; A 'high' or 'low' ratio gear is in reference to it's performance, not it's numerical number. To illustrate - a 'high' FD ratio will give 'higher road speed', but will have a numerically low figure. A 'low' FD ratio will give lower road speed, but have a numerically high figure. part numbers: C-AJJ3371, C-AJJ3319, C-STN39, C-AJJ4014, C-STN76, C-STN77 A by-product of this will be reduced acceleration capability on the 'high' ratio, increased acceleration capability on the 'low' ratio. The main gearbox gears work in the exact same way. Cog swapping Elsewhere we've considered what alternative standard production ratios are available - but that still leaves you with the power-consuming and limited-ratio alternatives helical tooth type gears. Not desirable in a competition orientated car. The solution to this comes in the form of several types of straight-cut gear sets (teeth are cut at 90 degrees across the gear as opposed to the angled helical type).

As outlined in the 'Gearbox - standard production gearbox types' article, it is entirely possible to change the common 4-syncro gearboxes to the helical close-ratio set-up as used in the Cooper S, 1275GT, 1300GT, and some early MG Metros providing the right parts can be sourced. And you don't already un-knowingly have the close-ratio kit fitted! Part numbers are detailed at the end.

The other pre-requisite for this conversion is that it can only be applied to the early, pre-A+ type mainshaft gears. That's those that have the square-topped teeth as supposed to the distinctively pointed A+ profile. This is because despite being endowed with A+-type fittings for the mainshaft end and layshaft, the conversion gears have the pre-A+ tooth profile. This is not to say that the conversion cannot be put into an A+ gearbox casing - it can and is detailed in the relevant article.

What is essential to understand is that the pre-A+ second and third mainshaft gears are going to be

Brakes. Pad Types and Choices

I know I keep dragging this one out for an airing but it’s continually ignored by far too many folk - the only way to get the best from what you have is to be totally honest with yourself about your Min’s main usage. Delusions of grandeur cause severe disappointment, and tears before bedtime. Fitting a set of pads to your road Mini because you think you drive like Michael Schumacher, and your Mini’s built around a ‘race’ theme, with ‘race-spec’ brakes is going to get you into severe bother. Nine

Despite a particular pad type having a high ‘Mu’ designate doesn’t mean to say it’ll give you the best braking potential. They’re generally made in a harder compound so may also give unacceptable levels of disc wear, noise output (squeal), or judder. A pad that gives excellent performance at lower temperatures may have unacceptable pad wear, and create excessive corrosive dust.

So what you need is a pad tha...

Brakes - How They Work

This time we’re going to look at just how brakes do what they do, and ways to improve them. Without a doubt the most important point to get sorted at the outset is just what makes brakes do their thing - FRICTION. The sole purpose of the brake set-up on any vehicle .....

What you actually need for the disc/drum conversion is pretty straightforward. Disconnect the steering arms, top and bottom swivel-pins, CV joint, and flexible brake pipes at the subframe - that’s it. There are, however, a number of ancillaries to consider.

Basics

Basics Fitting discs designed for the Mini is easy enough. Just make sure you use CV gaiters for the disc-brake set-up - these have a different bellows shape to stop the gaiter rubbing the inside of the hub. The drum type will rub, then split, shedding grease all over the place. Moly grease is mighty mucky stuff to deal with and doesn't assist braking at all! A tip for racers - to stop the gaiters over-expanding when getting very hot and imitating the aforementioned, put either a decent sized split pin or (my favorite) a piece of very small bore pipe - as in the type supplied with WD40 aerosols, etc. - under the retaining strap on the drive shaft. This allows air to escape and return,

Brakes - Fundamental Considerations

When looking to increase their cars performance, most folks immediately turn to considering higher engine power outputs. Because of this pre-occupation brakes tend to slide down the improvements priority list. However, they are far more important - being able to accelerate at warp speed to hyper-space in the twinkling of an eye is all very well, but disastrous if you can’t stop. You will make a very big hole in the scenery, and possibly end up wearing an wooden over-coat. Getting the braking system sorted out can help to make the car quicker, as you will be able to more confidently, therefore maximising speed in any given situation. Being one of those ‘sciences’ used in the automotive industry I hope to shed some light on the subject as it's another of those where many questions from confused and mislead folks that clog up my e-mail board. The advent of the Metro, and the brakes used on it has spawned a lot of activity in this direction. It was soon discovered that they could b

Brakes - Pads, Function and Parameters

The past few years have witnessed a great deal of activity in the brake-swapping department by Mini enthusiasts world wide. The reasons are quite diverse, ranging from fashion to necessity. Some fit vented Metro 4 pot brakes because it’s the ‘in’ thing to do, giving max pose value. Some believe it’s a performance improvement, usually misguided by a misinformed vendor hell bent on making a sale. Some do it because they’ve been given a Metro, and their Mini’s endowed with drum-brakes. Some fit 7.5” S-type brakes because they want to fit 10” wheels on their late-type Mini. Some fit them because the racing discipline they compete in won’t allow anything else. Some even fit the disastrous 7” Cooper-type because it’s all they have. Whatever the reason or type of disc-brake set-up used, the effectiveness of the installation can be honed to perfection by the type of brake pads fitted. Indeed, using the correct brake pad on a current set-up could out perform any intended swap, such is their in

This gasket was originally developed by Howley Racing way back in the mid eighties for what was then part of the factory Rover Group racing effort - the Group A Metro Turbo. C-STR1057 Group A Turbo head gasket The engines developed by Howley Racing were giving 220+bhp and 185lb ft running 16.4psi boost - quite a chunk of power in a car little bigger than a Mini! Despite 10" wide sticky slicks, the engine chirped the tyres in each upward gear change. Even more impressive when you consider this was still on it's single 1.75" HIF SU carb! All that was basically done was to take a standard production head gasket (the then all over silver TAM1521 - a great gasket it it's own right) and add a reinforced fire ring by over-lapping the existing one with an extra fold of metal.As a consequence the block needs to be machined to accept this gasket - rendering it useless for any other gasket fitment and any further over-bores (even to 73.5mm) unless a top-hat type liner was used.

During a discourse with the editorial staff at Mini Mag, it was decided the build feature presented an ideal opportunity to demonstrate just exactly what such an engine build is capable of in days where it's generally believed you have to have an all-singing, all-dancing 1380cc engine to have an enjoyable road burner - leaving those with very limited budgets a little depressed. During a discourse with the editorial staff at Mini Mag, it was decided the build feature presented an ideal opportunity to demonstrate just exactly what such an engine build is capable of in days where it's generally believed you have to have an all-singing, all-dancing 1380cc engine to have an enjoyable road burner - leaving those with very limited budgets a little depressed. So the idea was to finish the engine off using a relatively 'mild' specification to maximise drivability. The camshaft used was the fantastically versatile Swiftune Racing SW5 profile that provides drive from nowhere up to 7,000rpm - d

Cylinder Head - Unleaded Fuel Use

The specter of 'unleaded fuel only' - instigated in UK on January 1st 1999 and seemingly from decades ago across the rest of the world - seems to be forcing more and more folk into frightened, panic orientated action. And Mini owners are featuring heavily in this. See bottom for useful part numbers. The situation not at all being helped by all sorts of conflicting information from 'leaned' sources, such as lead levels in humans has declined greatly since 1935 - despite the rapidly expanding ownership of petrol-burning vehicles. And benzene and toluene used in unleaded fuels are cancerous. Still, the powers that be are relentlessly forcing through the 'no heavy metals in fuel' bills, not being at all put off by such trivia. Not surprising bearing in mind the complete debacle on the catalytic converter front - the type decided on for world wide and universal use was developed and tested in California!

Cylinder Head - Unleaded Fuel Use

Valve Guides - Materials and Useage

Material choices for guides are down to two distinct types - cast iron and bronze. Yes, cast iron. NOT steel as described in many adverts and by vendors. Never have been, never will be. These are as fitted to the various A-series cylinder heads as standard in all applications. Cast iron is used because it is a very dissimilar metal from any used in valve manufacture - important to eliminate galling that causes seizure of the valves in the guides - is softer, yet resilient enough to wear well. Bronze, on the other hand, is a very general description as there are a variety of 'bronzes' used by various folk. In days gone by, the bronze base type used was 'PB1' (also known as 'Navy Bronze') - a phosphor-bronze alloy that was very orange in colour, and very soft, used primarily in race engines. Unfortunately they wore out very quickly. Silicone-brass content bronze is probably the most popular now - often with a high aluminium or manganese content - is very yellow/gold in colour.

MSE6 - POST 1992 Unleaded Stag

Modified to give maximum performance gain for cost. Combustion chambers, inlet and exhaust ports extensively re-worked. Stone-ground finish in ports promotes ultimate fuel atomisation. Three-angle valve seats in head. Super-quality MG Metro valves modified to increase airflow. MSE6 - POST 1992 unleaded stage 2 (Road Rocket) large-bore head Part No Applications: MSE6, TAM1059, TAM1061, TAM2069, 12G1963, 12G1015, ADU4905 Inlet Valves: 35.6mm(1.401") dia. Original equipment type P/No. TAM1059 Exhaust Valves: 29.2mm(1.150") dia. Original equipment type P/No. TAM1061 Exhaust seats: Latest type Beryllium-based for lead-free fuel P/No. TAM2069 Valve Guides: AE Hepolite cast iron P/No. 12G1963 Valve Springs: Nominal 140lb. Max actual valve lift 0.400" P/No. 12G1015 Stem Seals : Latest 'top-hat' design with tensioner springs (inlets) P/No. ADU4905 Chamber Volume: Nominal 20cc Combustion chamber volume used to give slight static compression ratio increase over

MSE6 - POST 1992 Unleaded Stag

Yes, contrary to what many say/express, all cranks are forged. None are cast. They wouldn't last 2 minutes in an engine if they were cast - they'd be way too brittle. Below is a list of crankshaft identification data by forging or stamped numbers - yes, contrary to what many say/express, all cranks are forged. None are cast. They wouldn't last 2 minutes in an engine if they were cast - they'd be way too brittle. The differences are in the material used, finish machining detail and any heat treatments applied. It is by no means complete and utterly correct/infallible since Austin/Morris, British Leyland, Leyland cars, Austin Rover, rover, et al were seriously prone to not adhering to specifications and applications lists. But it is better than nothing at all! 22A62 850cc - Early type with oil feed for primary gear, 1.375" dia. tail 22A63 850cc - Early type with oil feed for primary gear, 1.375" dia. tail

Engine - Identification Data Updated

If you have the engine tag still attached to the engine - just in front/below the thermostat housing - or perhaps the original engine number in the log book then the following should help you determine which engine you have. For Metro units, see 'Engine - Metro identification data'. Original engine identification numbers 850cc 8A Austin up to 25000 8MB Morris up to 25000 8AM Austin & Morris 25000 onwards 8AH Austin & Morris Automatic 8AJ Austin & Morris closed circuit breathing 8AK Austin & Morris automatic with closed circuit breathing 8WR Wolseley Hornet & Riley Elf 8AC Moke 85H/101 All variants 1969 onwards Note: third suffix letter denotes compression type, L = Low, H = High, e.g. 8AM/U/H101 denotes high compression. 998cc 9WR Wolseley Hornet & Riley Elf Mk2, pre closed circuit breathing 9AD Austin, Wolseley Hornet & Riley Elf Mk2 with remote type gearbox and closed

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