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Articles search results for inertia

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C-AEG421 Light steel flywheel (inertia starter type) fitting instructions

This flywheel is not balanced so should be before use, along with the prospective clutch assembly.

Before fitting the Mini Spares light steel flywheel, care

C-AEG619 Uiltra-light steel flywheel (inertia starter type) fitting instructions

This flywheel is not balanced so should be before use, along with the prospective clutch assembly.

Before fitting the Mini Spares Ultra-light steel flywheel, carefully examine the crankshaft taper for any burrs or other protrusions caused by fret-welding of previous flywheels.

GEARBOX - Syncro vs 'Dog' engagement

NOTE

; A 'high' or 'low' ratio gear is in reference to it's performance, not it's numerical number. To illustrate - a 'high' FD ratio will give 'higher road speed', but will have a numerically low figure. A 'low' FD ratio will give lower road speed, but have a numerically high figure. part numbers: C-AJJ3371, C-AJJ3319, C-STN39, C-AJJ4014, C-STN76, C-STN77 A by-product of this will be reduced acceleration capability on the 'high' ratio, increased acceleration capability on the 'low' ratio. The main gearbox gears work in the exact same way. Cog swapping Elsewhere we've considered what alternative standard production ratios are available - but that still leaves you with the power-consuming and limited-ratio alternatives helical tooth type gears. Not desirable in a competition orientated car. The solution to this comes in the form of several types of straight-cut gear sets (teeth are cut at 90 degrees across the gear as opposed to the angled helical type).

Brakes - How They Work

This time we’re going to look at just how brakes do what they do, and ways to improve them. Without a doubt the most important point to get sorted at the outset is just what makes brakes do their thing - FRICTION. The sole purpose of the brake set-up on any vehicle .....

Brakes - Fundamental Considerations

When looking to increase their cars performance, most folks immediately turn to considering higher engine power outputs. Because of this pre-occupation brakes tend to slide down the improvements priority list. However, they are far more important - being able to accelerate at warp speed to hyper-space in the twinkling of an eye is all very well, but disastrous if you can’t stop. You will make a very big hole in the scenery, and possibly end up wearing an wooden over-coat. Getting the braking system sorted out can help to make the car quicker, as you will be able to more confidently, therefore maximising speed in any given situation. Being one of those ‘sciences’ used in the automotive industry I hope to shed some light on the subject as it's another of those where many questions from confused and mislead folks that clog up my e-mail board. The advent of the Metro, and the brakes used on it has spawned a lot of activity in this direction. It was soon discovered that they could b

Flywheel - Pre-Verto Types

The early spring-type clutch flywheels are of no use except where total originality is required on a concours car. The taper is too small and diaphragm pressure ring non-existent. No use to man nor beast. Part No Applications: C-AEG421, C-AEG420, C-AEG619, C-AEG620, 2A3657, 2A3658, 2A3659, 2A3512 With the exception of the fact the two-piece flywheel is two pieces bolted together - this and the later one-piece cast item can be treated as the same thing. They will universally fit all transverse engine cranks from 1964 onwards, so that should be easy enough. If all you can get is the hulking great 1300 type, then this too is as universal to fit, but I highly recommend you get that extra cast lump machined off of the outer edge as a bare minimum. Further lightening of these cast flywheels is possible by having metal machined off of the diaphragm side, from the outer edge of the diaphragm pressure ring outwards.

Engine transplants - Ancillary parts

Engine mountings are a whizz to fit as the Mini ones fit straight onto any of the other units. Just remove the Metro/AA/1300GT ones and swop the mounts over from the Mini unit. If they’re split, fit new ones, they’re cheap.

Terminology -
BBU - Big Bore Unit
SBU - Small Bore Unit

NOTE: This information covers transplanting large-bore engine units into small-bore engined Minis. For further information for exact differences between pre-A+ and A+ units, see relevant separate article.

Engine mountings and steady bars.
Engine mountings are a whizz to fit as the Mini ones fit straight onto any of the other units. Just remove the Metro/AA/1300GT ones and swop the mounts over from the Mini unit. If they’re split, fit new ones, they’re cheap. If using the AA/1300GT unit - it's advisable to cut off the 'wings' on the front plate that carried the engine mounts on the radiator end.

Exhaust - Manifolds, types available and application.

'The third stroke, that following the compression stroke,of our four-stroke Mini engine’s the only one producing power. The other three consume it. Here we’re looking at with exhaust manifolds, so what we need to consider is how to minimise power consumed on the exhaust stroke as the piston pushes the spent gases out.

Recap

Terminology-
LCB -Long centre Branch

A free-flowing set up’s the name of the game - size playing an important role. It’s always assumed a bigger bore pipe will flow better than a small one, so there’s a tendency to follow the ‘biggest is best’ principle and go for the biggest that can feasibly be fitted. Unfortunately it simply doesn’t work, as this generalised and simple view doesn’t consider the phenomena taking place within an exhaust system.

Flywheel - Verto types (not injection)

There is only one version of this flywheel as standard, and fits all A+, Verto or Valeo (same type, different manufacturer) installations. And it's heavy. Very heavy.

Those up-rating power outputs in later Minis bearing this set-up were stuck with it. It is possible to shave a few ounces off this chunk of iron, but is difficult - especially for the DIY-er - and not cost effective when paying to have it done. Mini Spares recognised this shortfall early on. Sympathising with the plight of their customers, they produced a replacement outer section for the Verto kit from the same high-grade steel as used in the other light-weight versions.

  LB KG
Standard Verto flywheel outer section only - unmodified 12.83 5.82
Steel Verto flywheel outer section only 8.84 4.01

Verto to Pre Verto,Clutch swap

TEST If converting from A plus verto type clutch to the original Diaphragm type these are the major components you will require:

All the major extra parts required to convert from Verto Clutch to Diaphragm type parts (in brackets indicate alternatives)

6 x GHF323 shakeproof washer 3/8” UNF
2 x GFK5240 bolt remote housing short 1” UNC
1 x 88G508 flywheel keyway – pre verto (EN24T)
6 x 2A3658 clutch flywheel strap
1 x 2A3601 clutch return spring anchor
1 x CLZ628 clutch arm pin – bottom
1 x CLZ518 clevis pin for clutch arm at the top
1 x 22A747 flywheel bolt pre verto
3 x 2A3657 clutch bolt long cover to pressure
3 x (C-2A3657 ) clutch bolt long cover to pressure

Historical Article-August 1994-Synchronicity

Synchronicity A question that regularly crops up is which is best, synchro or 'dog' selection gearboxes. Well,hold on to your hats - here comes the explosion of a myth. It would appear that a very large majority of people racing Minis believe that a 'dog' engagement box is the ultimate. Sorry, but this is not necessarily so. Much of this depends on the ability of the user. Before we go any further, some background information may be useful... ...

Historical Article-August 1994-Synchronicity

Synchronicity A question that regularly crops up is which is best, synchro or 'dog' selection gearboxes. Well,hold on to your hats - here comes the explosion of a myth. It would appear that a very large majority of people racing Minis believe that a 'dog' engagement box is the ultimate. Sorry, but this is not necessarily so. Much of this depends on the ability of the user. Before we go any further, some background information may be useful... ...
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