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TOOL11 is a supremely simple device to use, essentially an oversized vernier calliper.

Although a billiard table like surface is not needed, it is sensible to have the car on something like level ground without any of the wheels in dips or on lumps. Set the steering straight ahead and roll the vehicle back and forth a couple of times to settle the suspension. Resting the gauge on the ground in front of the vehicle with the arms at each end elevated, set the gauge to suit vehicle track width by releasing the two clamp bolts and sliding the two halves apart/together until the desired position is achieved, positioning the measuring tips at half overall wheel/tyre height (i.e. a line drawn horizontally through the hub centre to intersect the wheel/tyre outer edges) on either the wheel rim or tyre wall then pinch...

SUSPENSION - Basic set-up method

Time to arrange all those agonised over, carefully selected and applied suspension components to give of their best.

Suspension - Basic set-up method

part numbers: TOOL10, TOOL11, HILO, HILO-01

Time to arrange all those agonised over, carefully selected and applied suspension components to give of their best.

This is one of those subjects viewed as a ‘black art’, largely because of lack of understanding and confusion. The confusion part is because folk encompass the whole suspension set-up deal with suspension arrangement and design, lack of understanding instilling terror at the thought of ‘fiddling’ with the suspension components. The latter also fuelled by the knowledge that expensive specialist measuring equipment is needed. Well, there is no black art – you can work the magic. More a case of a long day...

SUSPENSION - Basic Priorities

Suspension - Basic priorities for improved suspension performance. Having studied the 'Suspension - Terminology' article you should now have a ‘job description’ understanding of previously possibly un-comprehended words associated with suspension control. Now - what to do with it? The first thing we need to establish is an order of priority before distributing hard-earned 'beer vouchers' in all directions. Fortunately, this is a good deal less complicated than is generally believed. Despite the five main factors that control the front suspension geometry – kingpin inclination, caster angle, camber angle, track, and bump-steer – we are only really able to alter three of those easily. King-pin inclination is non-adjustable, as it’s a feature of where the swivel-pins are mounted on the hub at the factory. It will alter as other adjustments are made, but we can do nothing easily about correcting/optimising it independently, as these are fixed in position on the swivel hub.

Equipment required - one 0.500” minimum capacity DTI with magnetic stand, 360-degree protractor and a piece of reasonably thick gauge wire to use as a pointer. Terminology - DTI - Dial Test Indicator/dial gauge Protractor - degree wheel TDC - Top Dead Centre, when piston is at highest point in bore BTDC - Before Top Dead Centre, before piston reaches highest point in bore ATDC - After Top Dead Centre, after piston has reached highest point in bore. Rotate crank so piston one is at the bore top (TDC). Fit timing gears 'dot-to-dot'. Set up DTI with stem resting on number one piston centre with a little preload. Rotate crank backwards slightly (anti-clockwise looking at the front), then gently forwards observing the DTI, watching where the needle stops before descending. This is TDC. Repeat this procedure, stopping when the needle reaches its zenith. Zero the dial scale, and repeat until satisfied the needle shows zero on the scale.

CAM TIMING - Mechanical Method

CAM TIMING - Mechanical Method Part No Applications: MD256, MD266, MD276, MD286, MD286SP, MD296, MD296SP, MD310SP, MD530, MDM266/KIT, MDM276KIT, MDM286KIT Equipment required - Stop plate - mechanical stop plate for setting TDC (see text). Set of feeler blades Terminology - TDC - Top Dead Centre, when piston is at highest point in bore BTDC - Before Top Dead Centre, before piston reaches highest point in bore ATDC - After Top Dead Centre, after piston has reached highest point in bore Accurate piston position indication is the first goal. You need to know exactly when piston one is at TDC. Without engineering measuring equipment a ‘stop plate’ is required. This you will either have to manufacture personally, or get one made. You need a piece of metal plate long enough to span the bore plus a couple of the head stud holes on either side - about 4.750" long by 1.375" wide will do the trick.

Primary Gear - Bush Replacement

With the cost of new primary gears spiralling ever upwards, and the availability of good, serviceable used ones, fitting new bushes to existing gears is becoming a more common solution. For some reasons for bush failures and rectification to stop it re-occurring, see article Primary gear - Bush problems. Since there is no useful information given in any of the workshop or DIY manuals on this subject, following is my approach to dealing with the issue. The first thing to get to grips with is which bush is which. This has added an element of confusion to many conversations I have had with folks on this subject, so - the FRONT bush is the one nearest the engine block, the REAR bush is the top-hat one nearest the flywheel. This is because the front of the engine is actually the radiator end - quoted in 'in-line' engine-speak. The REAR bush is the same on all primary gears - be they for small or large bore engines. The FRONT bush is different for each though; the small-bore one is smaller

Idler Gear - Setting End Float

A fairly crucial part of how the idler gear operates is its tolerances and running clearances. part numbers: 22A1545, 22A1546, 22A1547, 22A1548, 22A1549, DAM4822, DAM4823, DAM4824, DAM4825, GUG705563GM, AAU8424, ADU6033, CCN110, 2A3643, 22A152, 53K547, Terminology: DTI - Dial Test Indicator End float is a continual problem as folk either ignore it through ignorance or lack of accessible information on how to do it, or belief special tools are needed. Also, later factory assembled engine units (from about 1992 onwards) were built up using whatever shims and thrust washers were available, since Rover were not making regular orders for all shim/washer sizes due to the forthcoming end of production. Consequently, many units left Rover with incorrect (usually too big) clearances. The idler gear was no exception. Too tight a clearance and the idler gear will either seize solid when it gets hot, or destroy the thrust washer thrust faces in the comparably soft aluminium gearbox and t

Primary Gear – Bush Problems

Although not of immediate interest to many road-runners/street-burners, mainly accorded to the racing scene, it seems to be a perplexing problem to a very large number of folk around the world, and has burned up plenty of telephone time.

part numbers: 13H2934, LUF10005, CE12, 22G109, DAM8889, DAM8887

The first thing to get to grips with is which bush ...

During a discourse with the editorial staff at Mini Mag, it was decided the build feature presented an ideal opportunity to demonstrate just exactly what such an engine build is capable of in days where it's generally believed you have to have an all-singing, all-dancing 1380cc engine to have an enjoyable road burner - leaving those with very limited budgets a little depressed. During a discourse with the editorial staff at Mini Mag, it was decided the build feature presented an ideal opportunity to demonstrate just exactly what such an engine build is capable of in days where it's generally believed you have to have an all-singing, all-dancing 1380cc engine to have an enjoyable road burner - leaving those with very limited budgets a little depressed. So the idea was to finish the engine off using a relatively 'mild' specification to maximise drivability. The camshaft used was the fantastically versatile Swiftune Racing SW5 profile that provides drive from nowhere up to 7,000rpm - d

Cylinder head - Min Tec head range

I'm often asked about the range of cylinder heads I do for Mini Spares/Mini Mania, so here's the low-down…

Although the following range of heads accommodate specific fitments - like pre-1992 where by-pass hoses and heater take-offs on the clutch end of the head are used and post-1992 where neither of these exist, and on SPi (single point injection) heads where they don't usually have a threaded hole for the temperature sender - in reality it is easy to convert almost any of them to fit any other engine since holes are easily blocked off - or by-pass hoses not used, water pumps blanked off and drilled thermostats fitted (see articles on cooling/engine transplants). A list of which is what and what to do to each to convert is at the end of this article.

For more in-depth descriptions of the head specs, see article 'Cylinder head - About Min Tec Heads' - basically the valve sizes used have been decided on after extensive and in-depth flow test...

There is no specific large-bore (1275cc-based) head casting number that will fit the 998 engine any easier than any other.

They all have the same problems - generally requiring exhaust valve relief cut-outs machined into the block and re-alignment of the front water gallery transfer ports. However, I would avoid using heads with valves bigger than 35.7mm on the intake since these are too big for most 998 engines unless they are absolutely full-race spec where top end power at high rpm is all that is required.

First of all it is worth checking that you actually need to make the relief cut-outs since some heads have a big enough head face to exhaust valve face clearance to allow fitment without the cut-outs when the standard cam and rocker gear is retained.

If possible, measure the actual valve lift you are getting with the current fitted set-up.

The recent rolling road re-test of the 1275 engine build I did saw an opportunity to do some exhaust systems testing.

I had noticed a few years back that the RC40 was being manufactured by a different process than the originals - giving rise to a change in the shape of the bends applied to the system. I had wondered if they would be causing a restriction at all - but hadn't had the opportunity to test it. The lack of expected power from the aforementioned engine lead me to investigate all possible angles from the tyre contact patch to the carb mouth. I found nothing that explained the 14 or so bhp I was 'missing'. After some application of the old grey cells I mentally narrowed cause down to one of two things - either the piston oil control rings were still causing excessive drag (75% of all internal friction of an engine is generated by the piston rings) or perhaps these new bends in the venerable RC40 were indeed causing a power loss.

2003-08, Oil gallery plugs

Here's something unusual that cropped up a little while ago that I've never commented on before - main oil gallery plugs/bungs.

I'd been conversing via e-mail with a guy that was experiencing weird oil flow/supply problems with his performance street engine. Initially he'd been blaming it on the supposedly superior oil pump he'd bought. He sent it to me; I inspected it and found it to be in perfect health with no signs of causing the issues in hand. Firstly there was a claimed total oil drain down from the pump causing lack of initial supply on start-up for a few seconds, and then repeated crank bearing failures when used in anger (i.e. at high rpm for protracted periods). Unless there is something drastically wrong with the oil pump and fitment - cracked pump body, non-flat mounting surface, mounting bolts too long, split gasket, etc. - it will not drain down simply because the inlet and outlet ports are above the centerline, near the top of the pump as it is mounted to the block.

Lubrication - Temperature critical

The correct running temperature of the oil is perhaps even more important than the water/coolant temperatures - so let us consider how to control them.

Mainly because it seems to be the most misunderstood of the whole process, and oil cooler fitment almost a reflex when over-heating occurs where a tuned engine of any type is concerned. And in many cases on standard production road cars for that matter.

Almost since the appearance of the immortal Cooper S, fitting an oil cooler has been the essential thing to do to any tuned Mini without any comprehension why. The original fitment was necessary because oil and bearing technology wasn't too advanced. Asking an oil of yester-year to cope with lubricating an engine at racing speeds, and a gearbox pushed their performance to the edge of their all too narrow capability, so extreme control over their working environment was essential for reliability. Hence oil cooler fitment.

Primary Gear - Setting end float

A fairly crucial part of how the primary gear operates is its tolerances and running clearances. End float is a continual problem as folk either ignore it through ignorance or lack of accessible information on how to do it, or belief special tools are needed.

Terminology: DTI - Dial Test Indicator Also, later factory assembled engine units (from about 1992 onwards) were built up using whatever thrust washers were available, since Rover were not making regular orders for all shim/washer sizes due to the forthcoming end of production. Consequently, many units left Rover with incorrect (usually too big) clearances. The primary gear was no exception. Too much end float and clutch disengagement is adversely affected, the gear floating up and down the crankshaft in unison with the clutch plate. The result is a graunching gear change since the plate isn't clearing the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces fully. Too little end float and the gear is likely to be pinched tight as it

Fitting these brackets will add approximately 1.5 degrees of negative camber to whatever the current setting is, THEY DO NOT give 1.5 degrees of camber. The factory standard settings are quoted as 0.5-2.5 degrees.

After fitment it is imperitive to get the geometry checked, particularly the tracking, The ...

To facilitate full experimentation in this area, the MS73 kit has been developed to allow accurate adjustment of rear wheel camber AND track. Adjustment of rear track can greatly influence the handling characteristics of the Mini. For reference, toe in gives straight-line performance/stability with more rear end grip (under-steer). Toe-out gives over-steer in corners, and less stability in a straight line - particularly under part/closed throttle conditions. Simple and effective caster/camber and tracking gauges are available from Mini Spares (Tool10 caster/camber gauge, TOOL11 tracking gauge) to facilitate DIY setting of geometry.

Having now covered 17000 miles in my twinpoint from new it developed bad oil leaks making it a true mini. The rocker cover seals perished along with a diff output shaft seal. The leaks now rectified, Duckhams oil was used to refill the engine.

My own Twin point by Keith Dodd 1st June 2006 making it a true Having now covered 17000 miles in my twinpoint from new it developed bad oil leaks mini.

Once again I found myself swamped with work causing the now familiar last minute rush to check the race car over before departing to Donnington. This race weekend was going to be a very different affair than what has become the norm. Karin was having to work the weekend, my 'opposition' in my class and in another Clubby - Steve (Young) - has resigned himself to doing the last race of the year at Oulton park due to work pressures, and stats man and hospitality provider Keith (Manning – now Otto v

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