Camshafts - Scatter cams, pros and cons

To scatter or not to scatter, that is the question. This whole 'scattering' deal has befuddled many. The only real prose produced on the subject, and 'advice' handed out by many so-called 'specialists' tends to be somewhat tainted with large chunks of mysticism - inferring there's some kind of black art involved. The simple fact is the principle is very basic and easy; it's getting a cam with the right profile and figures applied to it that will actually work as a scatter profile that's the hard part. And this article does not mean I am all for scatter pattern cams. I will illuminate… We are all pretty much aware that the A-series is a real oddity, largely because of the siamese (shared) port work - cylinders 1 & 2 share an inlet port, cylinders 3 & 4 share an inlet port, and cylinders 2 & 3 share an exhaust port. Very weird compared to the more familiar head designs found on almost every other engine type that has one inlet and one exhaust port per cylinder.

Camshaft Design

Elgin Cams is a company that is a direct descendent of such famous California specialists as Isky, Delong, Winfield, etc. etc. Elgin has taken the art of cams into the science of the '90's. Computer designed and handcrafted workmanship guarantee a first class camshaft. Custom designed cams are a specialty. Part No Applications: CAM001, CAM002, CAM003, CAM004, CAM005, CAM006, CAM007 Elgin has made cams or sold his design to General Motors, Ford Motor Co., Nissan Corp., Zakespped International, Porsche Motor Sports, Winston Cup "Engine Builders. Elgin has the largest percentage of cams used at the SCCA Runoffs from GT-1 to Formula-V. He also has provided original or new technology for antique and vintage racers. Much information has been recorded about the four stroke internal combustion engine and yet only a small percentage of people really understand how it works and fewer people know how to modify an engine to suit their needs.

Super Mighty Mini championship to rounds 3 and 4 at Snetterton, Norfolk.

A barmy mid summer-esque May weekend greeted the Super Mighty Mini championship to rounds 3 and 4 at Snetterton, Norfolk. Jokingly nick-named the Far East round by some drivers due to its location, Snetterton is a circuit that as seen some of my better results.

Saturday qualifying saw me achieve a hassle...

Cylinder heads - About Min Tec Heads

'Modified to give maximum performance gain for cost. Combustion chambers, inlet and exhaust ports extensively re-worked. Stone-ground finish in ports promotes ultimate fuel atomisation. Terminology - VFM - Value For Money CR - Compression Ratio VE - Volumetric Efficiency Three-angle valve seats in head. Cooper S size valves with current maximum flow profiles and Tuftrided for durability/longevity when used with unleaded fuel (hence 'black' finish). Combustion chamber volume used to give slight static compression ratio increase over standard. Head mods employed greatly increase volumetric efficiency, boosting actual running (dynamic) compression ratio. Where much sportier cam profiles are used, a higher compression ratio is advised to achieve maximum power potential. Seek advice on what is required'. That is the opening paragraph from the fitting instructions sheet as supplied with the heads I do for Mini Spares.

Ignition - Ballast Resisted Systems

I'd like a pound coin for every time I've been asked about what these are all about and why they are used. Folk seem to hold them in some kind of awe - but they are very simple. Part No Applications: DLB105, GCL111, GCL143, GCL132 The ballast resisted ignition system was - I believe - developed by Ford when they were experiencing poor starting on a certain prodigiously-used 4-cylinder engine. To get round the issue of the massive current drain caused by the starter motor functioning, the ballast-resisted system was designed. When you hit the starter button/key, a massive drop in available current to the coil occurs as the starter motor does its thing. The colder the weather or the more worn the starter motor, the more current it draws, the less there is passed to the coil to instigate ignition.The ballast-resisted system utilises a 6 (commonly called the 'cold start' system) or 9-volt coil instead of the older style 12-volt item.

Ignition - Ballast Resisted Systems

I'd like a pound coin for every time I've been asked about what these are all about and why they are used. Folk seem to hold them in some kind of awe - but they are very simple. Part No Applications: DLB105, GCL111, GCL143, GCL132 The ballast resisted ignition system was - I believe - developed by Ford when they were experiencing poor starting on a certain prodigiously-used 4-cylinder engine. To get round the issue of the massive current drain caused by the starter motor functioning, the ballast-resisted system was designed. When you hit the starter button/key, a massive drop in available current to the coil occurs as the starter motor does its thing. The colder the weather or the more worn the starter motor, the more current it draws, the less there is passed to the coil to instigate ignition.The ballast-resisted system utilises a 6 (commonly called the 'cold start' system) or 9-volt coil instead of the older style 12-volt item.

Distributor - Electronic Ignition

Since the A-Series has such an efficient combustion chamber design, the standard points set-up is perfectly capable of providing sufficient sparks for effective combustion when new. And this is the problem. They require regular servicing to maintain maximum performance. This can be a chore, so is generally neglected. And it doesn't take long before deterioration seriously affects performance. Points bounce is also a problem on high-revving race motors.

Deterioration of the points set-up can be caused by several factors - wear and tear on the dizzy spindle bearings creating 'wobble', electrical erosion of the points, and wear of the points cam heal. All have the same effect - dwell angle alteration. This in turn reduces spark effectiveness. The consequences are a loss in power and economy, poor starting performance, and general poor running.

Engine - Running in Procedure

This is another of those subjects that crops up on the message board frequently. I am constantly surprised by the number of engine builders - or people who charge other folk for building engines at any rate - that never hand out such an information sheet. It seems pretty daft to me that having taken a wad of money off of a customer for an engine you've lovingly put together, you'd want to help that person get the very best out of the engine. And the running/breaking in procedure is absolutely crucial. It at least ensures no damage is incurred when the engine first bursts into life. A collection of the usual suspects have explained their own methods on the board, along with various others - many of which probably work just as well for them, a few which are down-right dubious. Following is a sheet I administer with every customer engine I build.

Winter is coming.........

Cold running and why tuned Minis simply quit running when pulling up.

Winter is coming, and with it various issues that affect Minis used throughout the year, no matter what the conditions.

This month's consideration is cold running and why a plethora of tuned Minis simply quit running when pulling up. Ignoring the few that are down to various other ailments, the main issue is just the cold weather. Those that suffer more ...

Cylinder head - Combustion chamber shape

Since the reasonably recent publishing of a certain Mini tuning, performance and maintenance guide that has strangely coincided with a batch of new readers/devotees of a certain prolifically quoted 'bible' on A-series engine modifications - the subject of all things cylinder head have bounced into the fore once more.

Something I was heavily canvassed over at this years (2003) Mini in The Park event whilst doing duty as Mini 'agony aunt' and 'doctor'… In particular the subject of the combustion chamber was foremost in discussion since the aforementioned 'guide' exhibited a number of wildly different chamber profiles with very little in the way of supportive technical information. Now, I have considered the pros and cons of doing this missive. On one hand, I am not out to increase sales of said guide since I'm not one of its supporters in any way. On the other I am certainly not attempting to belittle the efforts of the featured company as they have long been at the forefront of perf

Distributors - Modifying them, how, where, and who

When a known engine build formula is used, dizzies can be churned out with the relevant advance curve to suit - as in standard production engines. Terminology - Dizzy - Distributor When a known engine build formula is used, dizzies can be churned out with the relevant advance curve to suit - as in standard production engines. Reading the 'dizzy working basics' article defines what the dizzy does and how. It's pretty obvious then that any changes at all in the original engine specification is likely to require a different advance curve. This is where most folk fall down when completing the ‘build for power’, by assuming that an alternative dizzy from a sportier or similarly powered engine will do the trick.A simple illustration is folk's preoccupation with sticking a 'S' dizzy into anything tuned in the belief this is the way to go. It's not. It's likely to be as useful as the one you have.

Distributors - working basics

To maximise power and economy potential from any engine, burning the compressed fuel/air mixture at precisely the right point throughout the engines entire rpm range is essential.

Terminology -
TDC - Top Dead Centre
BTDC - Before Top Dead Centre
Dizzy - distributor
CR - compression ratio

To maximise power and economy potential from any engine, burning the compressed fuel/air mixture at precisely the right point throughout the engines entire rpm range is essential. This ‘point’ is generally somewhere before the piston reaches TDC on its power stroke described in degrees - i.e. 10 degrees BTDC. This point isn’t constant throughout the rpm range. Low rpm values are normally less than high ones.

Ultimately the dizzy provides this spark at exactly the right point to effect this burn.

RUNNING IN NEW ENGINES

Install engine. It is absolutely imperative that the cooling system is more than sufficient to deal with any temperatures likely to be produced by the engine. More power means more heat to be dissipated. A standard radiator is very unlikely to be able to cope with a reasonable power increase over standard.

Do not fill cooling system yet. Set clutch throw-out and free-play take up. Double-check all connections electrical, oil, fuel and cooling system. Put in engine oil – use a cheap multi-grade mineral oil. DO NOT use either semi or full synthetic oils. They will stop the rings from bedding in. Remove spark plugs, and spin engine over in bursts of a few seconds to pick up oil pressure and prevent starter motor damage. DO NOT start engine until oil pressure picks up.

Once oil pressure is showing, check ignition timing statically. Set to figure advised by distributor maker, or if no figures available, set at around 6-8 degrees BTDC. Re-fit spark plugs a

Engine transplants - initial information and engine choices

Is this familiar? - You take the small one out; you put the big one in. In, out, in, out, shake your fist about, you do the hokey-cokey and you turn around, that’s what it’s all about...

Terminology -
BBU - Big Bore Unit
SBU - Small Bore Unit
Bodge - English term for 'make do' engineering- assured to fail at an in opportune
Moment.
Dizzy - Distributor

NOTE; this information is largely for transplanting large-bore units into small-bore engined cars.

Is this familiar? - You take the small one out; you put the big one in. In, out, in, out, shake your fist about, you do the hokey-cokey and you turn around, that’s what it’s all about...kinda sums up the situation many folk find themselves in when attempting to endow their beloved Min with a more impressive turn of speed.

Ignition - Ballast ignition systems

I'd like a pound coin for every time I've been asked about what these are all about and why they are used. Folk seem to hold them in some kind of awe - but they are very simple. The ballast resisted ignition system was - I believe - developed by Ford when they were experiencing poor starting on a certain prodigiously-used 4-cylinder engine. To get round the issue of the massive current drain caused by the starter motor functioning, the ballast-resisted system was designed. When you hit the starter button/key, a massive drop in available current to the coil occurs as the starter motor does its thing. The colder the weather or the more worn the starter motor, the more current it draws, the less there is passed to the coil to instigate ignition.

Ignition - Establishing a TDC reference point

Establishing an accurate TDC reference point is of paramount importance when developing and monitoring ignition timing (and cam timing come to that). Terminology - TDC - Top Dead Centre BTDC - Before Top Dead Centre Establishing an accurate TDC reference point is of paramount importance when developing and monitoring ignition timing (and cam timing come to that). When an experienced engine builder assembles an engine - no matter whether for road or race - he will establish an accurate TDC indicator that can be used for ignition purposes. Usually contrived as a rigid pointer aligning to a corresponding mark on the crank pulley in a position easy to see with the engine installed. Unfortunately, many of us have to deal with engines that haven't had such attention to detail - so either have to make do with the standard ignition timing graduated scale if it's there or sort something else out.

Ignition - Pertronix Ignitor issues

I have been using the Ignitor ignition systems for some 8 years or so, as long as they have available in the UK, and have never found fault with them nor had any reliability issues. Until the beginning of this year… A new customer for this year, racing an MG Midget here in UK under a limited mods category, was doing splendidly for the first couple of races, then started experiencing a misfire. Initially it was believed to be a fuel starvation/vaporization issue. All fuel pipes were checked and re-routed where it was considered necessary. Those still considered in danger of getting too warm were heat shielded. The misfire persisted. On to the ignition system. All was checked, but then a loose alternator wire was found and blamed for the fault. It wasn't. Back to the ignition system then.

Ignition - Possible pre-ignition/pinking cause

Something that came to light during a conversation with a colleague and friend may be worth passing along.

It's one of those things that, once ingested, lurks in the dark corners of the mind until a pertinent situation comes along. Such a situation reared its head a couple of weeks back - so now's the time to spread the word before it disappears back into obscurity.

Engine's that run on or pink (detonate) for some seemingly illusive reason may well be suffering from a problem that causes an apparently correctly chosen heat range spark plug to run too hot. The problem is worn spark plug threads in the head. This reduces the heat-path required to cool the plug, consequently it over-heats and causes the aforementioned problems. So if you come across this one, check the plugs for fit in their threads. If they're loose, try the next heat range up!

Ignition - What's needed

Firstly - re-runs or re-hashes of technical literary prose always brings to light either new, or old forgotten subjects for close scrutiny/re-examination. The arrival of 'A Well Known A-Series Tuning Bible' is no exception. Good news as far as I'm concerned as it keeps me gainfully employed!

This dissertation is centred upon that old chestnut 'ignition systems'. Technological advances running through the entire automotive world hasn't ignored the system that supplies life-giving sparks to bring your engine alive. It's true - no spark, no power. Much of the technology applied has been about making bigger, fatter, longer lasting, and more consistent sparks. The plethora of Mini spares suppliers have embraced this whole-heartedly as it's another string to their bows of profit generation. And it's this that's causing the problem - again Mini owners are being sold stuff that they don't need, or more pointedly will NOT increase power out-puts one iota.

Pistons - Whys and wherefores

For many, trying to make an informed decision about which type of pistons they should use for their application is a very difficult thing to do. Mostly you have to rely on guidance from a very few sources such as engine builders  and Mini spares specialists, who are most likely to recommend whatever it is they use or sell.
And that is not necessarily a bad thing where those companies have strong reputations for good quality products. But even those specialists may not know all that much about the pistons they use or sell. Particularly since trying to get any really useful information out of the manufacturers concerned is practically impossible. Try contacting AE Hepolite technical. Getting hold of someone takes real perseverance. Having achieved that meagre goal, enquiring about piston specification gets those ‘lemon sucking’ sorts of noises – anybody would think you are asking for the Holy Grail! So I’m going to try and cut through the techno-babble to help you identify a