John
163 posts
Joined: 09/09/2004 09:32:06
Location: DK-2000 Frederiksberg Denmark
re
Hi Jimmy, Yep - Youll need to set the car on a level surface, and set the ride height as close to normal or high as possible - for about a week to get things level. Adjust the tie rods to standard length. Then, an assistant, pen and paper, a flat surface to work on and TOOL10 Caster/Camber gauge and TOOL11 Tracking Gauge from our hosts are good to have. If you havent the TOOL11, a thin string pulled tight around the circumference of the car at the centerline of the wheels can be used - tie it off at the towing eyes in the front. Ok, after a week or so, driving around, lower the car - adjust all 4 corners as low as they will go and crank them UP to the desired height, with the rear 3/4 higher than the front, checking each one periodically, as one will affect the others. Measure the ride height at the ends of the sills, just so you can repeat the measurements. Adjust in small amounts around the car, as its really easy to go too low, and this will affect everything else. Take some initial measurements, following the gauge instructions, and if you need to lift the car for any reason, be sure to settle the suspension by rolling it back and forth a couple of times and bouncing it up and down (open the doors and press on the doorsills). Adjust the REAR camber and toe as needed to achieve zero degrees camber and 1/16 toe in. Either use adjustable brackets or insert shims between the bracket and subframe to increase toe out if youve got too much toe in. Do each side independently, as they may be different. If youve got toe out, youll need to file a little bit off the forward edge of the hole where the radius arm shaft is fixed to the bracket, and weld up a small plug at the back of the hole - this moves the outer edge of the arm forward, thereby pulling the wheel inward at the front. If youre using string to measure the amount of toe, the difference between the rear edge of the wheel and the front edge (at the centerline) will be 1/16 TOTAL - so, the front edge angled inwards 1/32 on each side should be your target. Similarly, adjust the camber - either by using the adjustable brackets, or by modifying the brackets radius arm hole. Once the rear is sorted, then move to the FRONT. Youll want to make your camber adjustments first - even if youve got fixed arms, then do your caster adjustments. Follow the instructions on the TOOL10 gauge (also found in the Technical Articles pages on this site). 1-degree negative camber (1/2-degree negative camber if youve got 13 wheels) Youll then do your caster adjustments - set them to 3½ to 4 degrees caster, use the TOOL10. Finally, set the front tracking. Youll need to make sure that each side of the steering rack is showing the same # of threads and adjust the toe to 1/16 toe OUT - if using the string method to measure, then the front edge of the wheel should be wider than the rear (at the centerline) by 1/32 on each side. Hope Ive helped you out!
Posted: Nov 22, 2004 01:27 AM