pickme
672 posts
Joined: 08/09/2004 23:10:14
Location: Chippenham United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
rusty
If by rusted you mean the nuts are all but non-existant then you might want to try a nut splitter. Theyre a bit brutal but brilliant when you dont have a choice.
Posted: Jun 23, 2005 11:07 PM
Barry Brown
511 posts
Joined: 23/06/2008 12:08:31
Location: New Barn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Need to remove inner CV joint
From what I remember of doing this on a clubman some time back... I split the steering knuckle joints with a forked splitter and then undid the track rod end joint as well. Once they were both loose I jacked up the hub with a scissor jack and removed the lower wisbone. I then let the hub down again and it came free from the upper joint. This allows the hub to come away sideway from the car to disconnect the drive shaft from the inner pot(although better if you can undo the hub nut and seperate the hub from the outer CV joint as you get more room to play)
Now get someone to put tension on the drive shaft whilst using a small blunted cold chisel to drive the pot joint towards the diff so that it comes over the circlip. Once the drive shaft is free you can use a small pry bar to force the pot joint off the inner drive shaft.
Posted: Apr 18, 2011 05:06 PM
C. Barron
332 posts
Joined: 04/05/2006 21:28:31
Location: Mid Calder United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
HELP! Front Hub nut
Have you tried chiselling it around ? Basically hammer a chisel into the nut about halfway along one flat until you create a notch and then change the angle of the chisel so that when you strike it with the hammer it tries to turn the nut in the desired direction.
Applying some heat wouldn't go amiss too.
A very long extension bar on the socket of the right size ought to finish the job off.
If it's still a problem then either use a large nut splitter, or if you haven't got one cut a slit through the edge of the nut with the grinder. Even if you only slit up half of the nut you will have made a dramatic difference to the pressure which the nut and corrosion are gripping the thred and the trying to turn it afterwards should bring it off.....otherwise grind the nut completely off down one side. The shaft thread is such a large diameter that the resulting damage to the thread, if kept small will not significantly reduce the ability of a new nut to hold with full tension
Posted: Oct 03, 2006 03:54 PM
taffy1967
1783 posts
Joined: 27/09/2006 18:58:07
Location: Rhondda-Cynon-Taff United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Brake Problems!
Did you fit those banjo splitter things, because Metro brakes used 2 brake lines as opposed to the Minis 1?
And the standard disc brake set up on a Mini is usually more than strong and good enough for most Mini models and vented discs just add more unwanted weight.
Anyway have you fitted the right pads?
The only other thing that can cause problems is the brake bias valve that's mounted on the lower left of the engine bulkhead. It has the break lines running to and off it and it controls the front/rear split.
Posted: Apr 10, 2007 01:36 PM
Roobz
223 posts
Joined: 15/12/2005 01:31:36
Location: Redbridge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Help, Nut has rounded itself off and won't budge
Prime example of using the wrong size socket on a nut,
heat is always a good idea,, plus-gas is the nuts. beats wd40 for this kind of work.
you can also buy these things what fit over the nut and have a cold chissel bit. you tighen the end and its bites down into the seized nut and snaps it clean in two, leaving the thread undamaged. the link is to Frost.co.uk great website for everything and anything to do with restoration.
http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=7976&frostProductName=2-Piece%20Nut%20Splitter%20Set%20(12-16mm%20&%2016-22mm)
Richie.
Posted: Aug 05, 2007 01:12 PM
mark
397 posts
Joined: 18/08/2005 14:01:28
Location: Hitchin United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
CV pots
the method i use is to undo the two bolts for the caliper, and remove it, tie up with a bungie strap. undo top and bottom ball joint and track rod end, remove the hub, and turn the hub upside down, so the top ball joint is in the bottom arm. sounds daft, but it cant fall anywhere and has a little pressure on the shaft outwards.
then using tool xyz, split the joint. sometimes you need to revolve the shaft as the spring clip is in the wrong place and you hitting tool xyz does not work.
i sometimes use a ball joint splitter, the forked type, and use 1 side of that to release the pot joint, as i have the special tool but find this easier to use. 2 or 3 sharp blows should release it, and it helps if you have a person on the shaft applying a little outward pressure.
when refitting a drive shaft, try the upside down hub method, and when the spline are lined up just give the upper edge a sharp jolt and it usually drops in first time. if you damage the rubber caps on the ball joints they sell them on here less than £1.00 each, always replace them !
Posted: Sep 11, 2007 02:08 PM
Batmini
168 posts
Joined: 11/03/2007 10:47:54
Location: Kidderminster United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
mayfair brakes.
If you're handy with a spanner and have the tools then this job isn't too bad. I assume your mini is on 12 inch wheels, so this should keep the cost down a bit.
You would be best off buying 12 inch disk assemblies which should have the right cv joints, hubs, disks and calipers. Then get yourself a haynes manual to show you how, with the aid of a ball joint splitter, you take off your old hubs.
Buying the panels for doing the sills and steps will be fairly cheap, about £50-£100 depending on genuine or copy panels being used. The expensive bit is getting them fitted. Expect to pay in the region of £300 or more for someone to fit and paint them.
Rear subframe not too bad. Haynes manual again, Tank out, Wheels chocked then jack up rear end. Disconnect handbrake cable, brake pipes and shocks at top. Spray releasing oil over front bolts of subframe (just in front of rear wheel). Support subframe on jack, PRAY, then remove front and rear bolts for subframe (8 bolts). Replace bolts for stainless type and replace subframe rubbers (only a couple of quid).
Posted: Feb 20, 2009 05:47 PM
Sam
68 posts
Joined: 17/05/2009 08:39:39
Location: North Shore New Zealand
Air horns
seein as some bastards stole my ORIGINAL air horn outta ma car i decided to go out and buy some airhorns, they are the FIAMM brand and included is 3 trumpets, a compressor, hose, splitter, and the relay (30 amp i think)(and bolts etc of course). and i am having trouble finding all the wires and which wires come from where etc etc...and so any suggestions are greatly appreciated. in case this helps, it connects to a separate button (not on a stalk, as the button on the stalk must have failed and the previous owner thought this was the easier way to fix it missing) which was working on the previous horn, and i know which wire this is.
i included some photos of the engine bay where my horn used to be and a couple of loose wires i suspect connect to the horn and also some photos of the horn.
thanks heeaps in advance
cheers
Posted: Jul 02, 2009 07:36 AM
Eric
222 posts
Joined: 21/06/2007 10:12:29
Location: Cranbrook United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
vacuum
So is this pipe the vacuum source for the dizzy vacuum advance?
I don't really follow where it is going. It seems to go to the wing, where it meets what appears to be some sort of connector/splitter. Then another simliar pipe comes from the same sort of place and goes down to the dizzy. Does anyone have a schematic/plan showing what pipes there are and where they are supposed to go? Do mini spares sell a replacement set?
It does seem quite likely that this is the source of my problems. As I was fixing the wiper park switch, I guess I have caused the problem .
Bad enough at the best of times, but as I was trying to start the car and the temperature was dropping, the sleet was falling and snow was starting to block the windscreen, it all seemed almost hopeless. I'm starting to sound liek a real fair-weather mini driver!
Posted: Feb 08, 2010 01:49 PM
TWICE MoNkEy!
12 posts
Joined: 11/05/2005 13:47:51
Location: Caterham United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Bits Wanted Please!
Heres the situation. I have just painted my front subframe which now looks very nice and new. I now want to start building it back up again, but need some bits for it. Also, I need some other bits on top of that. What I require mainly are parts that I doubt people will have spare and Ill probably need to buy them new, but hey, theres no harm in asking and Im a student, so Im always after a bargain, or cheaper than new prices at least. OK, I require the following: Set of 1.5deg Neg. Camber Arms Set of Heavy Duty Adj. Tie Rods 2 Upper Arm rebuild kits 2 Raduis arm rebuild kits Poly Bushes (Unused) for front suspension components (tie rods, bump stops, lower arms, etc 2 Longer track rod ends (the ones for lowered car and cars with neg. camber) 2 Ball joint/swivel pin kits 2 Unused doors seals Ball Joint splitter (scissor type) 4 Rear Subframe bolts (Short Bolts) Unused brake shoes for front and rear drum brakes Unused brake cylinders for front and rear drum brakes Stainless Steel Braided Brake and Clutch hoses (Unused) You can e-mail me, but youre better off calling me on 07914 356631. If you do want to e-mail me, then my address is: twicemonkey@gmail.com
Posted: Oct 17, 2005 05:01 PM
MARCUS ALLEN
2 posts
Joined: 10/07/2011 17:20:35
Location: Lincoln United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
GARAGE CLEAROUT
now then, just trying to create some space in my garage, raise funds for the project and give good homes to abandoned concepts, would anyone be interested in;
brand spanking new clutch master cylinder with plastic res?
brand new vibe 4 channel stereo amp?
brand new smiths white faced fuel gauge and voltmetre?
tinted rear perspex window?
dtm corner splitters?
mountney 4 spoke steering wheel?
hif44 and hif38 carbs?
narrow fortec front bumper?
led bulbs?
mini city speedo in housing or its front grill? (the last remaining bits of a previous donar car :-( )
4" componant speakers (new)?
message me if you're interested or if you are in lincoln nip to tyre and tech on a tue evening as i'l most likely be there :-)
Posted: Jul 16, 2011 06:45 AM