Mike
5 posts
Joined: 04/11/2005 20:09:27
Location: Kings Lynn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Erratic rev counter
Another possibility is the printed circuit board (PCB) that runs across the back off all the gauges. The Tacho being an "extra" is firmly connected to the other 2 dials so the PCB flexes with vibration and the plastic hardens with age, eventually the track across to the Tacho breaks down inside the PCB. with it removed you can actually see the break which makes and braeaks under vibration causing the tacho to flicker spuiously. I simple put a a piece of wire across and spot soldered it and then insulated it with tape which also served to strengthen the plastic PCB which was getting britle with age. worked for me and saved buying a new PCB or instrument cluster...
Posted: Oct 08, 2007 03:14 PM
Roy
261 posts
Joined: 19/09/2005 19:34:20
Location: huntingdon United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Printed circuit board on the back of the instrument panel
Ditto the soldering iron... worked for me when the PCB got torn (oops).... and sorted out the weirdly behaving rev counter and temp guage....
Posted: Dec 17, 2006 11:06 AM
fuel guage aint working
Hi ...Could be the sender unit giving up the ghost or a wire thas become disconnected.... worth checking both. its not normaly the guage itself as they rarely go wrong unless some other electrical fault is the cause (mine went dead along with the tacho/rev counter when i switched on my headlights and turned out to be a small tear in the PCB on the back of the clocks, severing a track and fixed with a blob of solder!)
Posted: Apr 28, 2006 10:31 PM
Barry Brown
511 posts
Joined: 23/06/2008 12:08:31
Location: New Barn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Binnacle lights
Hi,
I think you need the "GLB2132" bulb. It is a pysh fit into the twist/lock carrier.
Bulbs are 1.06 (inc vat) from Minispare or 76p (inc vat) from Somerford http://www.somerfordmini.co.uk/eshop/index.php?main_page=page&id=85
but the postage would be overly expensive for this so have a look on ebay or go to nearest Halfwits or local motor factor. If the twist/lock carrier is broken or missing then you'll need to talk to a breakers yard but they may want to sell you the whole assembly. (drop Somerford an email as they may have a spare carrier only)
Nice touch with the fil on the pcb. I had similar with the ignition black box on my '96 cooper. It was not completely sealed and moisture corroded the pcb. I followed where the pcb should have gone and linked the ends out with wire - saved £100 that way :)
Posted: Feb 25, 2013 11:13 AM
John
1948 posts
Joined: 28/05/2006 16:49:46
Location: cambridge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
dash change
its complicated to get the speedo to read correctly, as lewis said u need speedo to match your diff ratio however central speedos were only made for 3.76 ratio and 3.44. most later 1275's were 3.1 or 2.76 final drive. it is possible to get them to read correctly as there is a speedo drive on the gearbox, it has gears in which can be changed for differnt ratios so you can match them up if u know how to get right ratio. electric can be a matter of matching it up might have problems due to pcb on back of speedo case. in simple terms its not a weekend job its quite difficult and unless u want to spend 4eva trying to sort out electrics and speedo gears dont bother. they do look nice tho.
Posted: Feb 20, 2007 10:01 PM
fog light location
I have recently aquired a 1990 mini mafair( see new mini owner) and one or two things are not as they should be Ive managed to sort out the clock and dip beam problem (tacho went dead with lights on and no dash lights also fuel guage went loopy) which was down to a tear in the plastic PCB on the rear of the instrument cluster breaking a track, that was bridged with a blob of solder which cured everything. The real question is where was the rear fog light mounted? Ive managed to locate the wiring for it (although it has been bodged to use one of the reverse lights with a red bulb) but the actual location of the fog light is a bit of a mystery there has been a fair bit of body repair and panel replacement so the location could have been covered up or cut out and replaced as there is also no trace of where the wiring loom passes through the boot compartment to get to the fog lights outside. So any help would be appreciated before I start drilling uneeded holes in the bodywork. roy
Posted: Oct 17, 2005 09:47 PM
Fuel gauge
-It depends on what the problem is (you dont specify!) and what is causing the problem! It could be a simple thing like a blown fuse or the sender being mis-matched to the fuel level or it could be an aparently, un-related problem such as mine was, Which was a fault with the instrument panel, A broken track on the PCB to be precise which was fixed with a large blob of solder, Crude but effective! Or it could be that its knackered and you need a new one! But without knowing what its actually doing its difficult to prescribe a remedy... Roy
Posted: Oct 29, 2005 08:05 PM
Wacky Tacho
Hi.................
mine went the way of the dead when i put my lights on too, along with the fuel guage and temprature guage went trhough the roof! turned out to be a split in the PCB on the back of the clocks that severed a track. A large blob of solder sorted it out and cured a dash light problem too.
Posted: May 26, 2006 10:09 PM
rev counter
Thanx nick .... Ill check it out..... having checked a problem with my dash lights I found a broken track on the PCB on the back of my clocks.... One large blob of solder later and a miracle occurs as my dash lights, fuel gauge, Rev counter and headlights all now work brilliantly. Now all I have to do is replace all the fuses as they have all been switched with 30 amp jobbies in the fusebox! Roy
Posted: Sep 25, 2005 01:49 PM
dougc
2 posts
Joined: 23/03/2006 11:48:23
Location: Saffron Walden United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
I have a 1989 mini thirty with the standard gauges, and recently the speedo light died. So i got a new bulb (could only get 3w in my local shop, does that make too much of a difference compared to 2.2w?), fitted it and worked for a few minutes. I took the bulb and holder out and had a look round the back and the contact area on the printed circuit board is corroded and so a connection cannot be made. Any tips, anyone with a spare pcb? contact me on the forum or douglascrumpler@hotmail.com with any offers.
Cheers
Posted: Dec 16, 2006 02:39 PM
Switch
17 posts
Joined: 09/10/2008 13:41:13
Location: Heathfield United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
95 Cooper SPI, keeps blowing ECU relay packs....
Hi all,
Can anyone shed some light on a problem which has raised it's ugly head over the last week.
My g/f went to start her mini when leaving work friday and heard a faint thump noise and no cranking. A quick check found a blown ECU relay pack...we ordered another from Mini spares at £100 and fitted tuesday. The car ran fine on her way home at lunch, then later when leaving work...so it was started twice only...wednesday morning she got into the car and thump, again no turnover and this time no fuel pump whine either. Again checked the ECU relay pack and again the new one had also blown. We have a 3rd on order now, but will not be fitting it until we can find the reason why the first 2 were killed off (we should be able to repair the 2nd one to test with as the copper on the PCB blew).
The extra voltage is coming through the large power connector, so I instantly thaught a wire was shorting...however having spent over an hour tracing the wiring back last night, no joy, all cables are complete and not shorting on anything they shouldn't be.
What else could cause a huge short through these cables? I'm fresh out of ideas, and having spent £200 on new relay packs already, spending more money is not an option until we find something which needs replacing.
Any help most appreciated!
Thanks,
Martin
Posted: Jul 23, 2009 02:22 PM