Kenneth Stuart
1 posts
Joined: 28/08/2008 21:55:16
Location: Beith United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Check arm grommet
Hi, hope someone can help. I decided to replace the 2 check arm grommets on my mini, unfortunately the time between taking the old ones off and fitting the new ones mean that i can't remember which way they go ie what is top and which is for the o/s and which is for the n/s. Both are out of their bags so can't check part numbers. Also, what holds them on?
Cheers.
Posted: Apr 27, 2010 09:34 PM
Barry Brown
511 posts
Joined: 23/06/2008 12:08:31
Location: New Barn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Hi, If you go to www.somerfordminis.co.uk and look at their online parts manual PDFs you can work out what goes where and check out the part number for any clips you may have 'misplaced' (or have dropped inside the a-post).
Posted: Apr 30, 2010 02:18 PM
Scratch
8 posts
Joined: 13/05/2014 21:38:52
Location: Swanley United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
CHECK ARM RUBBER GROMMETS 1970-1986
Hi have just bought a pair of rubber check arm rubbers how do I know which one is N/S and O/s also I know widest part of the length goes on the top of door a pillar but there is a height difference in width does anyone know wich way the highest width go IE- thickest part towards outside of car or thickest part facing towards inside of door ? Any help would be appreciated also do you just stick them on with mastic ?
Posted: Aug 20, 2014 01:23 PM
Scratch,
I seem to recall that they were held on with a body trim clip similar to an ADH3809 but it's been a few years since I had one of those models.
I notice you live in Swanley. Take a walk down to GC Minis (http://www.gcminis.co.uk/) and ask them if they have an unrestored one you can check against.
Posted: Aug 22, 2014 09:32 AM
Posted: Aug 29, 2014 08:18 AM
Chris Larkin
Joined: 04/02/2019 20:55:36
Location: Port Talbot United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Fly2heel bell housing/Starter moter grommet?
What size do we need? And if possible could you supply link to eBay page? Thanks
Posted: Feb 23, 2019 05:31 PM
taffy1967
1783 posts
Joined: 27/09/2006 18:58:07
Location: Rhondda-Cynon-Taff United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Re
Yes you should have the grommets there for the 4 holes?
Posted: Oct 20, 2008 06:37 PM
Ed
95 posts
Joined: 19/06/2006 21:43:15
Location: APO United States
Scuttle Panel
Thanks, i'll probably weld patches over the holes. Can't be doing with rubber grommets!
Posted: Oct 19, 2006 06:02 PM
Tim
1849 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Anyone knows how to fit battery cable lead??? was on fire and melted!!!
Replacing the cable shouldn't be too difficult, if you don't mind lying underneath your mini in the cold and wet for a couple of hours, but I would have thought that if the cable isn't too badly damaged you could repair it by wrapping some really good insulating tape round the melted/damaged part, replace the grommet, and it'll last for years.
Posted: Dec 18, 2006 01:09 PM
Roy
261 posts
Joined: 19/09/2005 19:34:20
Location: huntingdon United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Interior light
I had the same problem with mine when i first got it. the remedy was to remove the light and thoroughly clean all the corrosion off the switch contacts and examine the door switches as they are in a position that is likley to expose them to a lot of water running off the roof and down the door seals, so with some fine emery paper and new door seal grommets i managed to get them working fine again. If the fuse hasn't blown this is probably the solution...
Posted: Jan 14, 2007 06:18 PM
Mike
5 posts
Joined: 04/11/2005 20:09:27
Location: Kings Lynn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Wet foot
Check the bulkhead to see if all the grommets for the various cables and looms are in place, rain can splash up through the engine bay and track along cables into the cabin and then drip at the lowest point? worth a look and an easy fix.
Posted: Sep 04, 2007 09:21 PM
Float Chamber Loose
The float chamber is designed to move (though it shouldn't flop about). Fuel gets from the float chamber to the carb via a flexible tube that comes out of the bottom of the float chamber, and it's more likely to be this that's leaking. There is a tiny rubber grommet that seals the joint, and this perishes after a few years.
Posted: Dec 15, 2007 12:35 PM
pickme
672 posts
Joined: 08/09/2004 23:10:14
Location: Chippenham United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
lamp
Check the fuses and check to see if you are getting power to the door hinge push button - the switch that turns the lamp on when you open the door. These can get a bit gummed up as behind there is a favorite place to rust. The wires to this run along the bottom dash rail before going through a couple of grommets. Armed with a torch, its easy enough to find them.
Posted: Mar 17, 2006 08:54 AM
I believe that's the only one and it fits absolutely all models. You can block off the extra holes with rubber grommets or go the whole hog and weld patches if originality is a must!
Posted: Oct 19, 2006 10:02 AM
Re:
It won't hurt to change the filler cap (you need another non-vented type). But definitely replace the vent pipe and make sure it exits through the boot floor via the rubber grommet that should be in the hole.
Posted: Aug 15, 2009 06:15 PM
Another thing...
I also have my foglights ready to mount, however, the fitting of the lamp bar requires drilling a couple of holes in the lip onto which the front bumber mounts. The holes will be out of sight. Is there something I could paint over the holes with to help keep rust at bay?
If asking this question are you really the best person to be fitting these items? P*ss taking aside....before drilling the hole put some electrical tape over the are to be drilled and then mark the location on the tape. This stops the drill slipping across the rest of the paint. Drill a small hole (2mm) and then open up to the full size plus a little bit for clearance.
To stop it rusting get touch in primer stick and one of top coat from Halfwits. You need both as primer isn't water proof. Clean the bare metal with white spirit, hammerite or cellulose thinners to remove the grease. prime and leave for an hour on a hot day. then top coat and leave for another couple of hours. when assembling coat it all with vaseline or preferably waxoyl to stop it trapping water underneath.
and alternative is to find a grommet that fits the fixing bolt and then drill the hole to take the grommet. prime and paint and once dry fit the grommet and then bolt through this. The upside is that it helps to prevent vibration damage to the spotlight and reduces rust - the downside is that the spotlights may wobble a bit on rough roads but you're also bolting into a fairly flimsy metal strip that will be shaking anyway. Have a look at the works Mini's and you'll see that the spotlamp brackets bolt to the front valance to give them greater strength and rigidity.
Have fun ;)
Posted: Aug 10, 2009 02:26 PM
Advice appreciated :-)
Are you missing the whole jet and pipe assembly? This is probably the part you need: AUD9451A
Or is it just that the pipe is leaking at the joint where it goes into the bottom of the float chamber? That's quite normal - there's a tiny rubber grommet and a tiny metal washer that hold the pipe in place - the rubber washer splits with age and petrol goes everywhere! You can buy the little rubber grommet separately, I believe.
Posted: Apr 09, 2008 03:06 PM
please help with where to cut metal fuel line in mk 1 cooper s engine bay?
Hi, The fuel line runs in the metal clips under the floor to the inside of the footwell depression. It then sweeps across and up between the bulkhead and the subframe to the bracket that contains the heater hose pipes. At the front of this bracket is a small hole (3/8") with a rubber grommet reducing it to 1/4" tohold the fuel pipe and stop it chafing. Trim the fuel pipe to be about 1.5" above the grommet so that you have sufficient to fit the braided flexible pipe onto.
You might need to check a few workshop or parts manuals to see what shape the bends in the pipe should be if you didn't keep the original as a pattern.
Posted: Mar 06, 2012 11:48 AM
removing headlamp unit from plastic bowl on MPI, help!
Hi Chris,
Usually the cable has a square plug to go on the headlamp end and bullet connectors on the other. The wiring passes through a grommet in the top of the bowl. You normally have to push the grommet back through into the bowl using a small electrical screwdriver (mind you don't stick it through hand) . Refitting is a reversal of procedure but a little silicone lube or liquid soap helps. Can you post a photo?
Posted: Apr 01, 2014 03:56 PM
knutspeed
17 posts
Joined: 13/09/2004 22:14:01
Location: Sarpsborg Norway
Tyres Scraping the wheelarches when cornering or hitting bumps!
Those tires shouldn't be a problem. Maybe the balljoints replaced were the ones on the wheel hub (two joints on each, top & bottom). I'm not sure what the english name for the joint I mean is - we call them "squeakballs" :) It's not a ball joint as such, it's a steel item with a ball at the end fitted into the aluminium trumpet slotted into a hole on the upper arm. This is covered by a rubber grommet. Should be easy to see if those are the ones you got replaces. If it was MOT work it's more likely that it was the hub balljoints as these will cause play in the suspension when worn.
Posted: Jul 04, 2006 02:53 PM