MM MkIV
4 posts
Joined: 14/09/2004 13:50:25
Location: Sunbury-on-Thames United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Rubber type cv joint fouling LCB
Has anyone got a solution to the old rubber type cv joint rubbing against an LCB exhaust? I only have roughly 10mm of gap after whacking the pipe into the y piece, but under mod-hard driving the pipe works its way back out to start rubbing against the cv joint. Any ideas?
Posted: Dec 14, 2004 03:55 PM
have some on order now, as cheaper than converting to pot joints.
Posted: Dec 24, 2004 08:52 AM
pickme
672 posts
Joined: 08/09/2004 23:10:14
Location: Chippenham United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
My friend had this problem on his Mk2 Cooper. If it is a Maniflow LCB, then they will mod it for free to change the angles required to miss the CV joints. The smaller nylon bushes do help matters, but there is a reason they are rubber as standard. Vibration!! Good luck
Posted: Dec 24, 2004 07:54 PM
chrispy61
51 posts
Joined: 08/12/2005 22:27:39
Location: Torquay United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
cv joint
lol my cv joint just blew up bearings and bits off metal everywere!!!
the problem is its a clubman which used to have drum brakes, i then converted it to disks with the hubs and everything, are the cv joints diffrent from drums?
i expect so, so what cv joint do i need from mini spares, all i no is that the caliper is AP with a single rubber brake pipe going to it, dont think there nethin special, i no they came off a mini, do the 998 city minis have the same cv joints?
Posted: Jul 05, 2006 07:38 PM
M. Willcox
17 posts
Joined: 19/04/2006 18:46:39
Location: Nailsea United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
just use 998 city cv joint which is the same for all 12" wheel minis
Posted: Jul 05, 2006 09:44 PM
paul
21 posts
Joined: 04/11/2005 17:08:07
Location: newcastle upon tyne United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
cv gaiter clip
I`m having trouble with the larger clip on the cv gaiter. The metal one I have tried (4 times!) when crimped up fouls on the swivel hub housing. There is a one on the other side of the car but it seems to be a continuous metal band. A standard cable tie wont do for the same reason. Can anyone help?
Posted: Jul 09, 2006 04:16 PM
little_mini
23 posts
Joined: 14/05/2006 07:23:43
Location: United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
The normal thing to do is to use the proper low profile tie straps that were fitted as standard but they require a special tool you'll use twice in your life. They are available from Demon Tweeks and the like and are refered to as locking ties or snap straps. They are also used for exhaust thermal wrap.
Failing that, tie wire is often used. Wrap several times round then twist tight using mole grips. Make sure the twisted end is well flattened down and preferably bent towards the wheel so it's not going to snag going forwards or backwards. It sometimes takes a couple of goes to get the tension right but lasts fine if you use stainless wire.
Posted: Jul 09, 2006 09:47 PM
sicklyorange
28 posts
Joined: 02/07/2006 22:01:08
Location: Ormskirk United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
I had this problem myself -
In my humble opinion (!) either:
1) use some good quality copper wire, wrap it around the gaiter twice, twist the ends together then bend it over in the opposite direction of rotation;
2) (currently used and better) Attatch the driveshaft/gaiter to the cv when it is off the car - there is a bead inside the gaiter that locates into the groove on the outside of the cv - you'll find it easier to locate this if the joint and drive shaft/gaitor is off the car. Then use good quality (but low profile) nylon ties (or screwfix.com do some st/st roller ties)
The problem with doing it with the cv on the car is that you tend to push the gaitor too far over the cv joint and then the tie fouls the inside of the hub.
Posted: Jul 09, 2006 09:54 PM
Mone
164 posts
Joined: 23/10/2006 12:34:32
Location: Lethbridge, Canada
Wanted: right side cv axle
Hello- anyone have a usable right side cv axle, complete from threaded end to at least midway up the shaft? As shown in the picture I need the half labelled "mini" as I will weld that part to an adapter to fit my honda transmission (I have a vtec mini). Any responses would be welcome. I am in Canada but will gladly pay shipping expenses. I cannot find one here (yet anyway). My mini is a 1978 mini 1000.
Minispares: if you have this please feel free to contact me, I could not find this in your online catalogue.
Thanks. silvermember_@hotmail.com
Posted: Jun 12, 2007 01:51 AM
Gavin
5 posts
Joined: 15/06/2007 14:13:11
Location: Potters Bar Ireland (N.)
Hello, the part number you are after is GCV1013, you can order online or alternatively phone our export department on 01707 607702.
Posted: Jun 15, 2007 03:57 PM
Sweeet! I have found a used one locally but suspect it won't live long. Is there a heavy duty version, maybe something the miglia minis use? Thank you for the response.
I was saved by a british gent who has a garage in Calgary. I call it "minitopia". He has an MG with a V8 in it he wants to show me; his pride and joy I'm sure. I am going there tomorrow and will take pics if anyone is interested.
Edit: I looked up that part number and it was just for the CV joint. I snapped the SHAFT. Is there a part number for the assembly?
Posted: Jun 16, 2007 01:53 AM
I went to Calgary and got my shaft today. I also learned that my parts are off a 1275 mini not the 1000. I'm glad he knew. I'll be off and running once I take this shaft and adapt it to the honda inner end. Here is Malcolm M.'s MG; it has an all aluminum rover V8!!! It is a little dusty, but still sexy. :) There were also 3 minis there- that is a big deal here as it's likely half the classic minis in the whole area!
Posted: Jun 17, 2007 01:09 AM
53rosbif
3 posts
Joined: 22/12/2005 11:00:42
Location: Hyeres France
CV pots
I wanted to change the oil seals on the gearbox to cure a bad leak. Followed the directions to prise away the pots from the dif housing using large lever, worked fine on the right side, no joy on the left side. Gave up using home made method and bought the special tool 18G 1240 from MiniSpares.
It will not come off !! Tried to be nice with normal hammer then went to the fix it all size, no way, it is not moving. The whole shaft and pot move slightly out from the diff housing, I assume that this is the preload spring washer taking up.
What do I do now, what is left to try?
Posted: Sep 09, 2007 07:39 AM
mark
397 posts
Joined: 18/08/2005 14:01:28
Location: Hitchin United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
have you removed the brake caliper and split the top and bottom ball joints ?
Posted: Sep 10, 2007 09:24 AM
The ball joints are loose and the shaft can move outwards, the problem is at the inboard end where the pot will not come off the output shaft of the gearbox.
Posted: Sep 11, 2007 12:10 PM
the method i use is to undo the two bolts for the caliper, and remove it, tie up with a bungie strap. undo top and bottom ball joint and track rod end, remove the hub, and turn the hub upside down, so the top ball joint is in the bottom arm. sounds daft, but it cant fall anywhere and has a little pressure on the shaft outwards.
then using tool xyz, split the joint. sometimes you need to revolve the shaft as the spring clip is in the wrong place and you hitting tool xyz does not work.
i sometimes use a ball joint splitter, the forked type, and use 1 side of that to release the pot joint, as i have the special tool but find this easier to use. 2 or 3 sharp blows should release it, and it helps if you have a person on the shaft applying a little outward pressure.
when refitting a drive shaft, try the upside down hub method, and when the spline are lined up just give the upper edge a sharp jolt and it usually drops in first time. if you damage the rubber caps on the ball joints they sell them on here less than £1.00 each, always replace them !
Posted: Sep 11, 2007 02:08 PM
I have been reluctant to pull on the drive shaft through fear of pulling the CV joint apart. If you think a steady pull is ok I am very willing to try. At this point anything is welcome since otherwise I believe the alternative is engine out and cut the b****rd off!
I read somewhere that the spring clip/ring inside the pot can get jammed or twisted and that causes the problem, if true what to do?
Posted: Sep 11, 2007 10:23 PM
never had a shaft that would not come off, you only apply light pressure as you dont wat to split the inner pot joint
Posted: Sep 12, 2007 08:09 AM
DJ
115 posts
Joined: 23/06/2006 17:00:57
Location: London United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
i am having trouble removing the cv joint gaitor from the drive shaft. I uncliped the gaitor frm part of the drive shaft and removed the drive shaft. However on the larger end of the gaitor there seems to be a round metal ring that i acnt get off. I can seem to see how its holding the gaitor on.
can anyone help?
Many thanks
Dan
Posted: Jan 04, 2008 10:24 AM
John
75 posts
Joined: 30/09/2007 17:06:33
Location: Newport News United States
I can't help personally, but I know someone who can.
Try www.coopertune.com Ask Steve Gibbs for help and let him know John sent Ya.
He just worked this very same area for me and breezed right thru it.
Posted: Jan 07, 2008 05:45 PM