wrinkly
59 posts
Joined: 10/09/2004 08:51:29
Location: POTTERS BAR United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
fibre and carbon fibre front ends
The best to date I have come across is Curleys who Minispares sponsered many years ago when racing minis. Deal with him direct as he still makes the stuff but is usually a bit slow. I am sure he has a web site
Posted: Dec 03, 2004 12:01 PM
David
79 posts
Joined: 02/10/2004 12:31:42
Location: SHEFFIELD United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Carbon Fibre Front
Minisport stock them they are £333
Posted: Dec 07, 2004 10:30 AM
best from da east
4 posts
Joined: 19/01/2005 22:03:35
Location: United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
carbon fiber
i am curentley bilding a rwd mini and i wanted a carbon fiber clubman flip front with a panles bilt in but there is no one who will bild me one dose any one have any links thanks best from da east
Posted: Jan 19, 2005 10:24 PM
can any one here help me find new carbon fiber panles doors boot cluby flip frount with a panles bilt in any link to any companys i would be gratfull thanks best from da east
Posted: Jan 19, 2005 10:35 PM
Joao
Joined: 27/02/2005 22:48:33
Location: Portalegre Portugal
5/16 carbon push rod for big bore(1275cc)
Hi! Im a Portuguese Mini Fanatic. Ive a set of N.O.S 5/16 carbon fibre push rods. Ive looked on books,in the web... and I cant manage any place to find what do I need to do to fit them on a 1275cc. I would apreciate any help from anyone that could explain me acurately what would be needed to do in the engine (block, head...) to fit them (and if its not asking to much why? I like to understand the principles, problems and so on). I know that the holes in the head and block would need to be enlarged, but I dont know to what diameter or if there is any other assle in the way. Thanks in Advance for any help. Cheers Joao
Posted: Feb 07, 2006 05:09 PM
Tony
33 posts
Joined: 08/01/2005 20:13:32
Location: chipping sodbury United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
carbon push rods
to fit them you need to open out the holes in the pushrod tubes in thehead and in the block beware the hole in the block do not run at 90 degrees to the block surface I run these in my rally engine they are an old set of windsor rods about 15 years old i think ive had them around so i used them, i cant remember the size you need to drill them out but i think it was about 11mm but check first also do a dry run with no head gasket if the push rod touches it will fail you have been warned when i drilled my block i used a milling machine and set it up by using a length of silver steel in the push rod hole resting on the side then set the turret to the angle the rod sits at, also remeber to de-burr the holes properly when finished and good luck, there are all sorts of scare storys about using carbon push rods about them breaking i know im a bit worried so i carry a set of steel ones just in case! theres confidence for you.
Posted: Feb 07, 2006 08:02 PM
Thanks Tony and Keith! Tony thanks for all the warnings. I have also read some storys about the braking tendency when rubbing or defective, a set of steell ones just in case is always a wise move Keith are you refering to enlogate the block hole in all its extension to the size of the upper part?
Posted: Feb 08, 2006 10:01 PM
Many thanks for all the replys. Jonh, I have the 2 Vizard books. In what relates to carbon rods only a small text talks about instalation (tunning bl a series...), and the only thing told is that the holes need to be enlarged, otherwise the rod wont pass. So the info gives some light, but dont solve any questions. That was why I enquired about it in here. Tony: Thanks Ive cleared understood your method. Keith: From your first reply I get the idea it was a question of matching the block hole with the head one.Taking in mind that we are talking about 5/16 ones, the block hole lower section would always have to be enlarged to the upper section diameter so that the rod could pass trough the hole bore, otherwise it wont go to the end. On your second reply I get the idea that the hole had to be huge elarged (bigger diameter) and that would have to be done on the head and block so that the push rod wont rub on the hole walls. So lets see if Ive understood it well. I have to get the holes to a larger diameter, as already stated by Tony (Ex: from 8mm to 11mm), thats what you mean with enlogate in a fore/aft (back/front of the block and head) plane, right? Unless extreme lengths are gon to to avoid them touching the block/head Lenghts in a fore/aft plane, or widht in a up (head) /down (gearbox) one.Correct? I would like to use the carbon push rods, as stated by you they are stiffer, lighter, less noisy, and add to that the fact I already have a set of them, so would not need to buy new steel ones, and can aplie that money in other part... However it will only be a wise tought if the work is carried out properly, otherwise they will fail and I will have to get a steel set. Sorry to make so much questions, but has Im Portugese Im just trying to understand if my conclusions of your method are correct. And its not always easy to understand some expressions. I havent done any trial, but I have been locking at it. Taking in mind what you guys have told me. 1 - I will need to have the holes in the block and head enlarged (bigger diameter) , or at least the block hole enlarged to match the head one. Both holes enlarged or not have to be matched so there is any shoulder between the hole in the head and the hole in the block.By other words the walls of the holes must be aligned (That was why I asked if it wasnt a good idea to have both holes enlarged at the same time.). Then its a question of making a dry assembly and check if the push rods arent rubbing on the hole walls. As they are increbily strong/stiff I wont have to worrie about expansion or bending under load, what would make them not rub on a dry assembly but rub while in normal use. Many thanks one more time, and hope I understood it all right. Cheers Joao Viegas
Posted: Mar 07, 2006 07:08 PM
SpriteAuto94
2 posts
Joined: 10/08/2005 21:21:10
Location: Bolton United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Carbon Canister connections
My '93 Automatic mini seems to have been butchered by its previous owner. It is fitted with the carbon canister under the passenger side front wing and a temperature sensor in the thermostat housing, the only problem is the previous owner must have broken one of the pipes on this sensor and bypassed it, removing any trace of where it was connected to. My (haynes) 'bible' says one side should be connected to the carb, the other to a valve on the top of the canister. Trouble is I cant see anywhere on the carb to fit a pipe. Could someone look on their car and let me know where the connection is made. I've included two pics, one of the valve, the other is of the canister, the pipe i'm missing is the top one "purge valve vacuum diaphragm" pipe
Posted: Apr 05, 2006 01:12 PM
Thomas Brassington
Joined: 11/10/2008 16:13:56
Location: Camborne United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Carbon Fibre roof
Hi all, need some advice can anyone help. Thinking about fitting a carbon fibre roof skin jus wondering if anyone knows how to actually go about fitting it to the rest of the boywork. Adeshives? Bolts? some magical use of gravity? Any advice much appreciated, cheers in advance, Tom.
Posted: Feb 27, 2009 11:24 PM
Mr Mime
9 posts
Joined: 04/05/2010 19:22:48
Location: Carshalton United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Carbon front end and grille/surround fitting.
I was wondering how I would go about fitting a grille and surround to the front of my car, as when I purchased it, it unfortunately had a carbon front.I was wondering if anyone had seen one of these before, or even better, if they have experience on their own cars.
Attached is an image of what it looks like.
Any assistance would be great.
Posted: Mar 12, 2011 03:12 PM
Barry Brown
511 posts
Joined: 23/06/2008 12:08:31
Location: New Barn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
The standard types of grille are fixed via selft tapping screws into the metal panel. You will be able to do the same with yours by screwing into the plastic but try some pilot holes first to avoid splitting the resin. I prefer to open a small square hole to take the nylon inserts and then screw into these. (the type that are used to hold the fuse box to the inner wing will do)
The side 'moustache' panels then fix to the grill at the edges so they shouldn't be a problem providing the indicator units are at the correct spacing to allow them to fit.
The top lip of the 'moustache' usually fits to the bonnet lip, which is where you'll have the problem. As a suggestion you could remove most of the metal that fits under the lip and leave some tags around 1cm wide in the same place as the fixing holes in the grille top edge. Then when you screw the grille on it will pass through the tag and into the body to hold it all in place.
Or you could rivet all the grille pieces together and buy a 'button' kit for grille fixing but this doesn't stop some thieving g!t removing it very quickly.
I'd try to borrow a grille first though to check that it will fit and that it clears those indicators.
Posted: Mar 14, 2011 01:52 PM
R. Buck
18 posts
Joined: 20/05/2007 13:06:51
Location: huntingdon United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Plinking!!!
A "De-coke" is literally scraping the carbon gunk off the inside of your cylinder head which builds up after a high milage has been covered (a substance which can be quite hard) and off the piston crowns. this naturally means that the head has to come off. You should use a scraper that is harder than the carbon but softer then the surface that its attached to to avoid damage and scoring which can attract further carbon deposits.
Posted: Jul 16, 2007 09:51 PM
t. townley-taylor
17 posts
Joined: 04/04/2007 00:20:53
Location: reading United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
mini acrbon fibre items
hi guys i am nowon here just wondering if any one has or knows where i can get any carbon fibre bits for my mini's thanks
Posted: Apr 04, 2007 11:54 PM
John
1948 posts
Joined: 28/05/2006 16:49:46
Location: cambridge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
4th gear swich
im not sure what ur saying but, there are boxes on some models that are inside wing and are filled with carbon. the vacume hose goes to this to a valve. the carbon box thing absorbs petrol vapours and oil vapours then when engine is running they are sucked into engine. as for top gear activated by a switch some old cars had this before 5 speeds were common known as an overdrive unit. u flick a switch and a solinoid engages a 5th gear in a separate 2speed box after the 4 speed they were common on uk sports cars in 60's and 70's
Posted: Jan 27, 2008 08:04 PM
nick the greek
Joined: 01/12/2004 23:07:01
Location: poole United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
flip front
anyone suggest the best carbon fibre front end that apart from paint, needed the minimum of work to get a good fit
Posted: Dec 02, 2004 10:41 PM
symini
Joined: 07/12/2010 18:41:10
Location: Markham Canada
My restored and customized Black Cherry Pearl Mini
Specs: 1275 SPI with Zeemax kit, Ultralight wheels, full leather interior ,genuine Minispares carbon fibre interior trim, John Cooper MotoLita steering wheel, Maniflow header, RC40 exhaust, 1.5 rockers, HiLos with coil springs and Gaz shocks, Minismiffy stainless steel engine parts, Carbonweezel Carbon Fibre parcel shelf, Alpine Bluetooth/Ipod deck and speakers, Pilot foglights plus much more...
Posted: Feb 29, 2012 03:36 PM
ray
21 posts
Joined: 17/06/2006 19:16:47
Location: borris Ireland (S.)
Fiberglass Front End Or Not?
I've had lots of versions of both and if you are using an a series engine for non race use ie as an everyday car then go for fixed steel and not removable. For engine transplants eg vtec etc go steel removable with a seperate bonnet also steel. Full race use carbon or fibreglass one piece
Posted: Mar 17, 2013 06:29 PM
Uncle-Gadget
27 posts
Joined: 12/06/2010 19:08:36
Location: Godalming United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Head Gasket
Hi. Just rebuilt the head on my 1970 850, all was done by the book, and the head and block surfaces checked and very clean. ground and polished the valve seats etc. I now have a very slight white fizz from the clutch end of the head gasket. jut enough to notice. any thoughts ? Obliviously coolant . No problems before except poor power due to very pitted valve seats and a lot of carbon build up.
Posted: Jul 02, 2015 09:09 PM
jag_clarke
petrol cap
u will need non vented type, vented is only for early cars. later minis vent into carbon canister inside right side wing and from there into carb. venting is reqires as petrol evaporates on hot day and so pressure would build up in tank if there was no vent.
Posted: Nov 29, 2008 01:10 AM