FATBOY2904
1 posts
Joined: 11/02/2007 15:04:39
Location: Essex United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
What Carb or Carbs??
I Need advice.... Ive a 1380 build with the usual stage 4 head, 1:5's etc What carbs or carb?? twin SU's whats size or a single HIF? HELP! Thanks
Posted: Jun 19, 2009 08:20 PM
Sam Youé
31 posts
Joined: 13/12/2004 09:58:20
Location: Margate United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
2 carb or not twin carb
ive just spent a fair bit on my 1990 998 cc Checkmate (including 2 bore exhaust system with an LCB manifold) but in next few months im thinking of installing a twin carb kit... would it be better to go fo a twinr 1 1/4 twin HS2 carb kit or a twin 1 1/2 HS4 carb kit, also, would you reccomend upgrading the cylinder head to a stage 2/3 head, before or after the carb? Many thanks, Sam.
Posted: Feb 16, 2006 11:39 PM
Keith
173 posts
Joined: 13/09/2004 07:56:05
Location: United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Carb size
The 1.75 HIF on a 998 is not at all too big if the engine needs it - i.e. if it is modified to the point of needing the extra flow potential (see my Mini Mag article in Feb 2006 issue.This mostly means a performance cam installed. Twin 1.25s on a good manifold work very well on 998s. That means something other than the awful cast ally jobs. So a steel fabricated Maniflow one then. A modified head will add performance, but the cost per bhp gain is low when no cam change is made. KC.
Posted: Feb 18, 2006 11:27 PM
SimonJ
49 posts
Joined: 31/01/2006 11:40:27
Location: South Glam United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
MPI or carb?
As much as like the refinement of the later injection minis they arent as playable as the older carb models. I have seen people with later cars pop carb engines in! There is less tolerance with most cars that are injected as the whole design of the engine, fueling and ignition is matched.
Posted: Feb 19, 2006 01:00 PM
GAGSINIO
3 posts
Joined: 15/07/2009 12:50:16
Location: DOUGLAS United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
No Synchro on 4th Gear Mini Cooper 1991 Carb version
Hi, pretty new to this. Synchro on 4th Gear has gone and was wondering if it is possible to replace this (i.e. financially viable)? Or would it be better to replace whole box? Also, one more daft question-What effect would putting a 5 speed box in instead have? Am guessing it would slow acceleration-but better top end? Thanks for your help. G
Posted: Jul 16, 2009 06:52 PM
No Synchro on 4th gearm mini Cooper 1991 carb version
P.s. put this in the bini section by mistake,bleedin' amateurs
Posted: Jul 16, 2009 10:45 PM
Sam
68 posts
Joined: 17/05/2009 08:39:39
Location: North Shore New Zealand
hey mate id imagine itd be expensive either way because u either gotta take apart the box or get a new one but sorry i cant say i no what itd cost. BUT about the 5 speed, it depends on the 5 speed box which u put in on how fast it accelerates, but the problem with minis is the way the gearbox is set up...at the bottom...and it is very problematic putting a fifth gear on due to size...and it is not unheard of for it to get ripped off going over speed bumps...unless u get a set of BIG wheels or adjust ur ride height or sumthing. otherwise u could just get them to put a new synchro in and get them to put an overdrive in at the same time.this just adds another gear ratio so u can cruise at lower revs without that 5th gear...
welcome to the forum by the way!! got some pics of your ride?haha
Posted: Jul 17, 2009 01:44 AM
Daniel Austin
11 posts
Joined: 08/07/2009 13:14:11
Location: plymouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Carb tuning and radio
Hello was just wondering if anybody had detailed instructions on tuning a 87 automatic mafair? i've been attempting to tune using the throttle adjustment screw and mixture underneath, however i cant seem to match the manufactures recomendations of 750rpm with the 1100 rpm on fast idle.(i presume fast idle is when N is selected on automatic transmission and the idle steadys out. or is fast idle with choke engaged? Also which power lead is best to branch off for a permenant power to the memory lead on my cd player?
Posted: Jul 25, 2009 01:11 PM
Tim
1849 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Carb tuning
Fast idle is with the choke out, and there is an adjustment screw for this. Obviosuly, it won't idle very well (if at all) with the choke out when the engine is hot! For the permanent live feed to your radio, you will find that one of the outputs from the fusebox on the bulkhead is permanently live (the one to the lights) and you shuld use that. Best to take the feed from the fused side.
Posted: Jul 25, 2009 06:50 PM
Tom C
14 posts
Joined: 15/10/2007 19:34:22
Location: stamford United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Whats my carb?!
I have an 82 mayfair but last year bought a new A+ engine off ebay. it came from M+M in london, but I dont know exactly what year it is. Its a 998cc and I would like to know what carb it has fitted to it. From what I gather it is either a HS4 SU, or a HIF38, anyone able to help me identify what i have?!
many thanks, Tom
Posted: Aug 06, 2009 08:05 PM
Joined: 31/03/2007 18:22:53
Location: Farnborough United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
twin carbs
i have a set that i'm about to stick on ebay
ready to go,
I even have a calver ST itg air filter and snub stacks
PM me
Posted: Aug 11, 2009 04:36 PM
Mini-man-rob
Joined: 29/07/2009 13:59:29
Location: Platerton United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Whats my Carb?
A really simple way to identify which it is. look at the throttle return spring. If it obviously extends down below the carb its an HS4 if its coiled adjacent the carb body its a HIFF 38.
Personally I think that the HIFF 38 is a great Carb for any 998.
Posted: Aug 13, 2009 02:25 PM
Jake Holmes
172 posts
Joined: 14/02/2009 21:39:11
Location: Walton on Thames United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Stalling at junctions. Sticking carb piston?
My Clubman has recently developed an annoying problem. Starts fine in the mornings, warms up ok, but when i drive it it cuts idles erratically or cuts out unless i give it more gas. This is after warming up and pushing choke in. Dizzy cap, arm, leads and coil replaced to rule out ignition (i think). The problem can be temporarily alleviated by unscrewing the carburetter piston damper and pushing it back in suggesting a carburetter fault. I've checked the carb oil and still no improvement, the problem resurfaces after driving. Is the next step to take the dashpot out and have a good clean of the moving parts? There is no noticeable misfiring except at idle.
Engine is a 1275 12A, with electronic ignition and HIF38?/44 carburetter.
Any insights appreciated.
Posted: Dec 30, 2009 05:43 PM
woodruff
29 posts
Joined: 18/02/2007 17:02:36
Location: Rome Italy
Dismantle carb and give it a good clean, could be a sticky piston but more likely its just the jet which is playing up. Follow an hynes or an SU carb handbook for dismantling, reassmbly and initial settings.
Posted: Dec 30, 2009 05:51 PM
That's interesting. How do i tell if the jet is faulty? Is it easy to replace the jet?
Posted: Dec 30, 2009 05:59 PM
Ricky Wood
9 posts
Joined: 20/01/2007 19:12:40
Location: Büdingen Germany
carb
I had a similiar problem on my mini (1275 A+ with a HIF44) and it turned out to be the fuel mixture adjustment screw had backed out a couple of turns. If you don't have one already, get yourself a colortune and check your mix.
Posted: Dec 31, 2009 07:20 AM
Have adjusted the mixture and cleaned the dashpot, piston etc. The needle seemed to be in good condition. The same thing still happens.
Posted: Dec 31, 2009 04:58 PM
could be a intake leak as well or your timing is a little out.
Posted: Jan 01, 2010 03:33 PM
Barry Brown
511 posts
Joined: 23/06/2008 12:08:31
Location: New Barn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
check the breather pipe between the rocker cover and the carb. I had the same problem on a 1000cc clubman. The rubber pipe was cracked at one end and was making the mixture too lean once off choke.
Posted: Jan 04, 2010 02:06 PM
My engine doesn't have a breather pipe on the rocker box. Oddly there's a breather pipe from the radiator side crankcase to the air filter but the air filter nozzle where it connects to is blanked so no fumes go into the filter box. Perhaps a faulty airbox?
Have had another look at the carburetter and noticed some flakes of metal in the area around the jet at the sides where the piston travels. Removed them and it seems to run ok on a run of about 5 miles. Hopefully that's fixed it although worrying they were there as it suggests some sort of abrasive action.
Posted: Jan 04, 2010 05:54 PM