Daniel Butler
3 posts
Joined: 01/12/2007 06:23:38
Location: Brisbane Australia
Boot board bracket
I'm looking at fitting a boot board and bracket set (CCC115 from minispares).
Does anyone have a picture handy that shows the layout of the brackets?
I know it's pretty obvious were they go but I would like to make sure it matches the original layout exactly.
Posted: Feb 12, 2008 07:47 AM
Tim
1849 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
I like the bit that says:
"No instructions as some parts need welding in and knowledge of the car and fitment are essential"
Not very helpful is it! As I've got a Mk 1 Cooper and I know at least one of the brackets is still there, I'll take a look at the weekend and take some pics for you.
Posted: Feb 13, 2008 11:47 AM
John
1948 posts
Joined: 28/05/2006 16:49:46
Location: cambridge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
mk1 ones were rivited in, mk2 on ones were spot welded in.
Posted: Feb 13, 2008 12:52 PM
Thanks for the response but I have recently come accross some photos on the net which should give me something to go on.
I think I'll get mine welded on even though they have rivet holes as I think this would be more rustproof.
Posted: Feb 14, 2008 07:06 AM
Ian King
14 posts
Joined: 13/03/2008 20:53:35
Location: Belfast United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Rust in boot next to shock what to do??
I am looking to buy my first Mini Cooper 1993 BRG
But it as a palm size rust patch in the boot next to the rhs shock.
Is the fixable and how much will it cost.
Other than that the car is in mint condition.
what should i do?
your help is appreciated
Posted: Mar 13, 2008 09:02 PM
to patch it will be about 40-100 pound from garage i would expect. to get it but welded so you couldnt see if was a repair would cost twice that but would depend on skill of welder. i wouldnt really worry about it affecting if you want the car unless arch is bubling all over, give it a probe to cheak size. use it as haggling point to knock value down when buying.
Posted: Mar 13, 2008 09:12 PM
It does depend exactly where the rust is - if it's on the side of the wheel arch it's easy enough to weld a plate over it (I did it myself 20+ years ago and it's still going strong) but if it's actually at the top where the shock absorber bolt goes through it might be a bit more tricky.
Posted: Mar 14, 2008 10:08 AM
J. Clarke
MK1 boot lid fit?
yeah straight swop.
Posted: Jun 12, 2008 12:03 AM
4ray
1 posts
Joined: 07/06/2006 22:22:30
Location: durham United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Thanks for your help,it is appreciated.
Posted: Jun 12, 2008 06:22 PM
john
25 posts
Joined: 15/01/2008 17:41:40
Location: worcester United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Rust in my Boot
hi everyone
I think i've got a very bad rust problem in the boot area.(As you can see from the pics).From the photo's, Can anyone tell me what i should do???? Could i get away with cutting/sanding the rust out,Treating it, then filling it or would i need to replace the boot floor??? And if you think i should replace the boot floor...How's easy is it to do????
Any Advice would be welcome
cheers
Posted: Jun 12, 2008 07:37 PM
doesnt look too bad, best buy replacement rear section of boot floor up to arches. remove rear valance, cut rear section of boot floor off then weld new section in then weld rear valnce in rembering to make sure u can get bumper on with hole alignment. can use a mig welder then use a combination of plug and seam welding. repair pannel may not line up that well i found so make sure wheel well lines up then cut excess off at edge to line up with vance lip for bumper then drill holes for bumper if nessary. as its not very vissable area you could just paint it with airosoles after , all pannels are cheap so wont cost u alot really just a weekend.
Posted: Jun 12, 2008 09:23 PM
The mission critical areas are the wheel arches (particularly at the top where the shock absorbers are bolted) and the areas immediately to the rear of the wheel arches, where the subframe bolts come through. If there's any rust here, the MoT man won't like it, so you will have to weld new metal. Any other areas are purely cosmetic, so it's up to you if you go for a complete boot floor replacement panel, or just the repair panels for the corners, or just some home-made patches.
I can't see too clearly from the pictures how bad the rust is, i.e. whether it's gone right through or not so you need to clean it all back and asses the situation.
Posted: Jun 13, 2008 08:57 AM
mot doesnt work like that, all metal 30cm away in 3d from any mount or structural member (eg sills, subframes) has to be sound. so that includes most of the car they have become stricter over last few years. if u imagine a ball 2 foot across at each subframe mount, and each seat belt mount each shock mount and long 2 foot wide tube covering sills, then body must not have any sharp edges. dont use filler near any structural member apart from to hide welds. make sure u spray waxoil or silular in sills and in valence each when reconstusting members to prevent future rust, that phosphoric acid u used to treat rust will help, dont pay alot for it tho its its just acid, swafega go 5litre bottle cheap not a gel so isnt as easy to use but is alot cheaper so has its uses, eshally for leaving components it it over night, works with alunium too.
Posted: Jun 13, 2008 01:59 PM
75 posts
Joined: 30/09/2007 17:06:33
Location: Newport News United States
Heres what I ended up doing.... I don't see how anyone could carefully remove the lower rear valance then put it back. It's cheaper to relace with a new one and the results are far better, Besides, If you have that much rust back there, the valance panel is probably waste metal anyway.
Posted: Jun 14, 2008 03:35 PM
l. johnson
Joined: 03/10/2006 11:51:19
Location: bulwick United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
boot lid seal
does anyone know how to fit the boot lid seal. i have tried to fit it but when i try to close the boot the seal stops it from closing. should the seal touch on to the lip on the body or should it go into the groove?
Posted: Jul 04, 2008 03:11 PM
Tiger Taylor
19 posts
Joined: 19/05/2007 21:39:59
Location: Brechin United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
push it hard in then close it! keep doing tht and it will get easier to close. tht what happened to me
Posted: Jul 04, 2008 05:23 PM
push it hard in then close it! the more you close it the easier it will close. tht what happened to me
Repairing boot floor questions????
As you can see from the photos,i need to get my boot floor repaired ( holes around the spare tyre area and battery box and both cornes by the lights have rusted ).What would be the best option to buy and repair? should i buy a full boot floor panel or just get corner repair panels and patch up the holes with plates??? Also,if i replace these panels do i have to replace the rear valance aswell???
Cheers
Posted: Nov 16, 2008 06:45 PM
Repairing boot floor questions
Your rust doesn't look too bad, and it'll probably be easier and cheaper to patch (unless you're going for a concours finish).
If the valance is really rotten you should replace it - it's very easy to do and the panel is cheap. You don't need the closing (flat) panel, just the outer (curved) panel. The closing panel just traps mud and water and causes it to rust quicker!
Posted: Nov 17, 2008 10:39 AM
jag_clarke
boot floor.
i agree with tim, repair pannels are cheap its big job to replace whole of boot floor and yours doesnt look that bad. i used a cheap repair pannel rear 6" i found spare wheel hole didnt line up correct. so i lined up spare wheel hole and cut excess pannel under where bumper is. it looked good after even with bumper off you could hardly tell was repair done. i made a lip on boot floor for repair pannel to weld onto. then spot welded it to rear pannel (plug would be just as gd). then welded new valance on i used closing pannel as adds lil strength at rear and heavily waxoiled inside to prevent rust. also use weld through primer in welding joints to help prevent future rust in them. u may find rear pannel around boot hinges is rusty in which case u can buy this as repair section.
battery box either fit new one of patch it as its not really seen. shouldnt be mot issue unless battery is considered likly to fall out which tester may not like. in terms of mot everything within 30cm sphear of ur subframe mounts will need to be structurally sound without significant rust holes. basicly if screwdriver can go through it it will fail, fillers ect dont count and will also fail, however they are fine to skim over welds to get good finish.
Posted: Nov 17, 2008 02:24 PM