tony
30 posts
Joined: 23/01/2006 12:07:03
Location: United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Does soundproofing work
Can anyone who has fittted some sound proofing give me any feedback if it is actually worth it and what brand is the best and costs. Thanks for any advice
Posted: Feb 02, 2006 11:09 AM
Jason Evans
4 posts
Joined: 26/02/2006 07:16:30
Location: welshpool United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
soundproof
i find that using the foam out of old seats to pack the inside of 1/4 panels makes road noise a lot less noticable,we used to do this on ply lined vans and the improvement when driving them was immense for such a cheap fix
Posted: Feb 26, 2006 08:04 AM
betsy
5 posts
Joined: 03/03/2006 11:38:55
soundproofing
Soundproofing-engine, road & air noise usully enters the car via holes or clearance between body , windows etc. Block or reduce these. Very thin lead sheet is the best soundproofing material,but only use this in high noise areas due to the weight
Posted: Mar 05, 2006 12:51 PM
Abominator
26 posts
Joined: 14/08/2008 22:14:34
Location: Wishaw United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Soundproofing felt: Which side to glue?
This will make me seem like the amateur I am, but I just got bonnet soundproofing felt and don't know whether I should be spraying the glue on the thicker, light brown side, which would leave the thinner dark grey side nearest the engine, or the other way round!
The brown side is a bit flakey, and I figured it might shake a lot of debris over the engine if it was on the near-side, so I figure that it would be the side to press against the bonnet, but I also think that since the grey side is more solid, it might be better for sticking to the inside of the bonnet?
See my dilemma?
I drew an excellent scientific diagram of how I think it should go, but I thought I should check with you guys before I do anything, because it'd be hard to rip all the felt back off if I do it the wrong way!
Thanks a lot for reading this anyway... seems I can't figure anything out myself anymore!
Posted: Jun 28, 2009 12:04 PM
Kevski style
105 posts
Joined: 12/09/2004 17:59:09
Location: Netherlands
Inductioon sound
Yes it will, it wil make a kind of loud hissss. If this is a problem dan you should soundproof de board.
Posted: Nov 24, 2004 09:48 PM
Also...
I also got the bulkhead/firewall soundproofing that has a black plastic side and a light brown side, which I'll get my garage to fit the next time I get a service, and I might as well ask what way round that goes while I'm here (no diagram this time)
Posted: Jun 29, 2009 07:37 PM
taffy1967
1783 posts
Joined: 27/09/2006 18:58:07
Location: Rhondda-Cynon-Taff United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
What Is The Sound Insulation Substance On Floor?
I've heard that most owners tend to remove it all with a chisel and then paint the floor with a suitable paint.
You can buy special soundproofing pads, or just buy and fit tailor made soundproofing material instead which is available from some Mini Specialists like Newton Commercial.
Posted: Aug 06, 2007 04:07 PM
Stuart
243 posts
Joined: 17/05/2005 11:14:28
Location: Frome United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
inside the door card is...
what you should see under your door card, is a sheet of metal with a few holes in, a long bar running from the inside doorhandle to the latch, the windowwinder mechanism, and i had a load of ductape covering holes and soundproofing. if there is a crash bar, itll be inside the door skin. ive never looked insider there myself. just dig around and have a look. Stu
Posted: Apr 10, 2006 03:06 PM
PROBLEM
Mini Spares also supply soundproofing pads that can be stuck down and painted over.
I'm told that it can't be found on their website but the part no. is PT4008 "Soundproofing pads" they are about 8" X 12" (although the packet says 6" X 18") it is very easy to use especially with a bit of warmth from the hot air stripper.
Pads In Position Image link
Posted: Feb 26, 2008 05:25 PM
Re:
I'd imagine bulkhead soundproofing would reduce the noise far more?
Posted: Nov 18, 2008 10:49 PM
Chris
8 posts
Joined: 14/03/2005 11:56:16
Location: Macclesfield United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Subs
Minis are difficult for bass. Modification of the rear seat back is an option with the sub facing the front of the car. I have seen rear seats drilled and a common one in saloon cars is the removal of the Ski hatch. Ok, minis dont have this luxury but you get the idea. Another way to get more response from bass is to make sure that the sound energy isnt being wasted by moving panels and other parts. By this i mean the sound wave moving the bootlid and vibrating the fuel tank. To rectify this is easy with soundproofing felt. I find that BrownBread is good and easy to use. Basically you use it to stiffen the panels so they dont vibrate. The result is two fold. It strengthens the bass response by tightening the area and it also removes some external noise making the sound system more efficient. One other idea is to use a large coned driver or small sub inside the car, under the rear seat. Something like a well amped 8 sub or 7x10 with a low bass response. As long as they were set up correctly they should be good. Last idea is a small sub under each of the front seats. A shallow 8 sub in a low box might work but youd have to check the volume of the box recommended. A specialist car audio shop should be able to help.
Posted: Apr 15, 2005 08:03 PM
Guy
7 posts
Joined: 26/08/2006 21:34:16
Location: Great Missenden United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Yes, I have seen the pads but like the soundproofing materials they would tend to be absorbent.
This substance I am talking about deadens the panel boom effect and seals the floor in totally. So if the floor gets wet for any reason it wipes out rather than having to totally remove and dry out separately.
And it would hide my welding??!!
Posted: Aug 06, 2007 04:25 PM
15 posts
Joined: 19/10/2004 17:04:01
Location: Bildeston United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
van
Hi Alex, I have a mini van for sale, its due to go into the classified sections of Practical Classics and Mini Magazine. It is red with an OEW roof (paintwork sound but we did it ourselves and Ive only buffed up the front, havnt got round to the rest yet!). The van is very sound, with little rust and only a few spots of body filler, which I shall gladly point out to any potential buyer - not trying to hide the fact, just didnt really think it needed welding (probably should have really tho!) It has a 1275 engine, with a Stage 2 Cooper (Stamped Cooper - so maybe from a john cooper conversion) and Weber downdraught carb, LCB and full stainless steel exhaust. The wheels are new Ultralights, with 4 good tyres, to cover 8.4 brakes. Inside, the van has cream leather Rover seats, and the rear of the van is fully soundproofed and carpeted, and has custom made (by a machinist) black vinyl covered cushions. Only bad things are really a few spots of filler as previously stated, and the rear subframe. If youre interested please get back to me, the van is located in NOrth Lincolnshire or Sheffield if you wanted to look. Thanks, Chris P.S. It is the same van that was previously described as 1301cc van (but a piston ring went!! Explaining the poor fuel consumption and slipping clutch!)
Posted: Nov 18, 2005 11:08 AM
Well I know that Mini floorpans were covered with a bitumen type of covering for extra sound deadening and it does go brittle and break up with age. It's usually spray painted the same colour as the car though, as it was applied before the shell got painted at Longbridge.
Mini Spare supply sheets of the stuff that you can cut to shape to fill in any gaps. It doesn't appear on their on-line shop though, but if you phone them you can order some that way.
I'm told that the part no. is PT4008 "Soundproofing pads" they are about 8" X 12" (although the packet says 6" X 18") it is very easy to use especially with a bit of warmth from the hot air stripper.
Hope that helps?
Posted: Jan 11, 2009 06:36 PM
John
47 posts
Joined: 13/06/2009 09:45:54
Location: TRONCENS France
Jumping out of reverse gear
NOT!!!
After a lot of thinking, I had an idea. During the renovation, new carpets and soundproofing felt have been installed. A quick look and sure enough, it's all a bit tight behind the gearlever gaiter. Five minutes of adjustment and everythings fine! Brilliant, but so easily could have ended up being a completely uneccessary engine-out job. Watch out when you put in new carpets!!!
I've hopefully uploaded a picture of the car, which no longer looks like a 25 - rats had eaten all that nice upholstery and the steering wheel was just a gluey mess - still, I reckon she looks pretty cool.
Cheers, Jack
Posted: Aug 31, 2009 11:52 AM
Roy
261 posts
Joined: 19/09/2005 19:34:20
Location: huntingdon United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
what is it?
I think you are refering to the soundproofing foam fitted to the rear panel behind the engine.
Its fine to remove it and no harm will come to anything but your ears. these cars are mechanically noisy beasts and you should either leave it in place or replace it for a new set of foam liners for the sake of your sanity.
Try it without it and you will see what i mean as the exhaust runs very close to the passenger cell as well as the noise from the gearbox! not to mention the noise from the induction system if you are non standard air filters without the airbox,
In fact, all the noise that is produced in the engine bay is transfered through to you and your passengers without the sound insulation in place so leave it there.......unless you realy like being deafened or just like hearing every noise ever produced by the first transversed engine fitted to a production car....
Posted: Dec 30, 2006 03:10 PM
someone else with cd player problems please help them
Its a good idea to have all wiring go through the block connector as you will only have one connection to detatch if you have to remove the unit for any reason (plus the aerial, of course).
If you look at the bulkhead behind the engine, under the soundproofing foam, if fitted, you will find loads of holes, some plugged, some not but all can be used for routing wiring from the fusebox to the unit.
As the unit will usualy come with in-line fuse protection, it's not strictly nessesary to run the main power feed from the fusebox but usualy the constant feed to the unit is not protected so if you do not use the fusebox then an additional fuse should be used,
as far as fuses go, you can never have too many but you can always have too few!....
Posted: Jan 02, 2007 08:56 PM
sicklyorange
28 posts
Joined: 02/07/2006 22:01:08
Location: Ormskirk United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
The sicklyorange saga...
Yes - loads of custom stuff - it helps working for a company that has a laser cutting machine!
Also on the back shelf you may see some aluminium seat subframes I had made.
There is loads of ally and st/st stuff on it that i've had laser cut and just about all the nuts/bolts have been replaced with st/st items.
Also, thanks to engineering contacts, there are electroless nickel plated bits all over (same finish as "mole" grips - should last for ages) and hot dip galvanized subframes front and rear which I then Hammerited white. The 10" revolution wheels I had done ages ago - satin black powder coated (again, engineering contacts) for free! Rear side windows are polycarbonate. I have also got some nice 80's corbeau recliners to replace the MG Metro seats. The whole thing was built into a new British Heritage body shell.
The car has actually been on the road for a year but is in need of a new engine and soundproofing. I also need to relocate some of the electrics.
Will update as-and-when - watch this space......
Posted: Jul 10, 2006 09:30 PM
Charlie Harding
17 posts
Joined: 14/03/2010 23:54:08
Location: Eastbourne United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
LEAK!!!!
Ok, Just had all the sills re-done after its recent MOT and other interior stuff as a general check up.... BUT... It keeps on leaking and puddles keep on appearing on the floor on the drivers and passenger's side... and i havent got a clue where it is coming from!
I took out all the insulation / soundproofing thing, which was soaked all the way through, so is now completely bare and can only see metal, so remaining pre-drenched insilation isnt the problem, and I dont have a sun roof either, so that aint the problem!
Please, any help would be muchly appriciated!!!
Charlie
Posted: Dec 06, 2010 02:44 PM
Chris Watts
2 posts
Joined: 11/05/2009 10:38:45
Location: Haywards Heath United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
1987 Mini Mayfair Auto for sale
1987 Mini Mayfair Auto Maroon 66,000 miles £1,200 ono MOT until May 2012 Tax until 31 Oct 2011 Car is structurally sound with sills and floor pans replaced in the last 18 months. No mechanical problems, starts every time. The car does need TLC to certain areas of the exterior. There's an area above the wheel-arch where rust has been removed and repaired but needs some cosmetic attention. Paintwork is also starting to bubble around both headlights. The interior has new carpets, soundproofing has been added along with speakers. However, the seats need attention particularly the rear ones, these have makeshift covers at the moment. See here for photos: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=116953175090605267532&target=ALBUM&id=5659359353357217617&authkey=Gv1sRgCKLrwKv81u7KOA&feat=email Please feel free to email me if you want more pictures or have any questions. Thanks for looking, Chris Email: cwatts01@gmail.com
1987 Mini Mayfair Auto Maroon 66,000 miles £1,200 ono MOT until May 2012 Tax until 31 Oct 2011 Car is structurally sound with sills and floor pans replaced in the last 18 months. No mechanical problems, starts every time. The car does need TLC to certain areas of the exterior. There's an area above the wheel-arch where rust has been removed and repaired but needs some cosmetic attention. Paintwork is also starting to bubble around both headlights. The interior has new carpets, soundproofing has been added along with speakers. However, the seats need attention particularly the rear ones, these have makeshift covers at the moment.
See here for photos: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=116953175090605267532&target=ALBUM&id=5659359353357217617&authkey=Gv1sRgCKLrwKv81u7KOA&feat=email Please feel free to email me if you want more pictures or have any questions.
Thanks for looking, Chris
Email: cwatts01@gmail.com
Posted: Oct 03, 2011 09:11 PM