Darren35se
54 posts
Joined: 10/01/2005 11:40:06
Location: Telscombe Cliffs United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
16 valves
http://www.16vminiclub.com/ have a forum about all different kinds of 16 valve conversions, I think there is a guy on there who squeezed a K-series in a roundnose with no lengthening!
Posted: Apr 11, 2005 08:13 AM
Joao
4 posts
Joined: 27/02/2005 22:48:33
Location: Portalegre Portugal
5/16 carbon push rod for big bore(1275cc)
Hi! Im a Portuguese Mini Fanatic. Ive a set of N.O.S 5/16 carbon fibre push rods. Ive looked on books,in the web... and I cant manage any place to find what do I need to do to fit them on a 1275cc. I would apreciate any help from anyone that could explain me acurately what would be needed to do in the engine (block, head...) to fit them (and if its not asking to much why? I like to understand the principles, problems and so on). I know that the holes in the head and block would need to be enlarged, but I dont know to what diameter or if there is any other assle in the way. Thanks in Advance for any help. Cheers Joao
Posted: Feb 07, 2006 05:09 PM
Thanks Tony and Keith! Tony thanks for all the warnings. I have also read some storys about the braking tendency when rubbing or defective, a set of steell ones just in case is always a wise move Keith are you refering to enlogate the block hole in all its extension to the size of the upper part?
Posted: Feb 08, 2006 10:01 PM
Many thanks for all the replys. Jonh, I have the 2 Vizard books. In what relates to carbon rods only a small text talks about instalation (tunning bl a series...), and the only thing told is that the holes need to be enlarged, otherwise the rod wont pass. So the info gives some light, but dont solve any questions. That was why I enquired about it in here. Tony: Thanks Ive cleared understood your method. Keith: From your first reply I get the idea it was a question of matching the block hole with the head one.Taking in mind that we are talking about 5/16 ones, the block hole lower section would always have to be enlarged to the upper section diameter so that the rod could pass trough the hole bore, otherwise it wont go to the end. On your second reply I get the idea that the hole had to be huge elarged (bigger diameter) and that would have to be done on the head and block so that the push rod wont rub on the hole walls. So lets see if Ive understood it well. I have to get the holes to a larger diameter, as already stated by Tony (Ex: from 8mm to 11mm), thats what you mean with enlogate in a fore/aft (back/front of the block and head) plane, right? Unless extreme lengths are gon to to avoid them touching the block/head Lenghts in a fore/aft plane, or widht in a up (head) /down (gearbox) one.Correct? I would like to use the carbon push rods, as stated by you they are stiffer, lighter, less noisy, and add to that the fact I already have a set of them, so would not need to buy new steel ones, and can aplie that money in other part... However it will only be a wise tought if the work is carried out properly, otherwise they will fail and I will have to get a steel set. Sorry to make so much questions, but has Im Portugese Im just trying to understand if my conclusions of your method are correct. And its not always easy to understand some expressions. I havent done any trial, but I have been locking at it. Taking in mind what you guys have told me. 1 - I will need to have the holes in the block and head enlarged (bigger diameter) , or at least the block hole enlarged to match the head one. Both holes enlarged or not have to be matched so there is any shoulder between the hole in the head and the hole in the block.By other words the walls of the holes must be aligned (That was why I asked if it wasnt a good idea to have both holes enlarged at the same time.). Then its a question of making a dry assembly and check if the push rods arent rubbing on the hole walls. As they are increbily strong/stiff I wont have to worrie about expansion or bending under load, what would make them not rub on a dry assembly but rub while in normal use. Many thanks one more time, and hope I understood it all right. Cheers Joao Viegas
Posted: Mar 07, 2006 07:08 PM
Nomininolife
79 posts
Joined: 02/10/2004 12:31:42
Location: SHEFFIELD United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Bolts
The flywheel bolt is 1 1/2 and the crank pulley bolt is 1 5/16
Posted: Jan 24, 2005 03:28 PM
2MINIS
12 posts
Joined: 10/09/2005 03:07:55
Location: Springfield Missouri United States
Bump Stops
I think 7/16"
Posted: Aug 04, 2007 04:02 AM
GuessWorks
14 posts
Joined: 13/09/2004 13:02:00
Location: Rugby United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Gear Lever Thread?
If you mean the thread for the gear knob it's 5/16 UNC
Posted: Feb 05, 2008 06:42 PM
Woody
73 posts
Joined: 29/01/2008 18:58:20
Location: NORWICH United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
.
i think from memory it is a 15/16 AF socket...
Posted: Mar 05, 2011 07:15 PM
Tim
1849 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
metric or imperail
I think you'll find the majority of the nuts and bolts on the car are imperial (mainly 7/16, 1/2 & 9/16 AF) but there may be a few metric ones on the engine and ancilliaries on the later engines like yours.
Posted: May 11, 2012 07:47 AM
taffy1967
1783 posts
Joined: 27/09/2006 18:58:07
Location: Rhondda-Cynon-Taff United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
accelerator pedal wont return?
Mini-Maid was referring to the Haynes Mini Manual costing you £16.00, not the spring.
Posted: Apr 05, 2008 09:19 PM
John
1948 posts
Joined: 28/05/2006 16:49:46
Location: cambridge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
New BMW Mini seats......Do they Fit ?
there 15 or 16" i think ud end up with no turning circle and would most likly have to raise the suspenshion to fit them in.
Posted: Jan 20, 2007 10:04 AM
Subframes
the front subframes have a different arrangement on the towers, they are held by a single bolt which is 1 5/16 head size so without major surgery i would say no
Posted: Dec 22, 2004 09:17 AM
diddi
37 posts
Joined: 13/09/2004 09:03:12
Location: St. Ingbert Germany
Master cylinder downgrade
That´s a quite simple conversion.
The leverage and lever orientation of the pre-servo pedal box and the later servo pedal box is the same.
Simply remove the vertical rod from the transfer shaft and also the complete master cylinder servo bracket from the engine bay. You will have to remove the transfer shaft from the car, as the lower clevis pin of the vertical rod is riveted (no split pin)!
You will then have to make a bushing for the clevis pin that connects the master cylinder rod to the lever on the transfer shaft, as the diameters are different.
GMC227 has a 5/16" clevis pin.
The vertical rod is connected to the transfer shaft with a 7/16" clevis pin.
This bushing can easily be made from nylon, usind the servo clevis pin (NAM8540) from the upper end of the vertical rod. Simply push/knock out the 5/16" clevis pin from the 7/16" nylon sleve and cut a bushing from it to fit into the lever on the transfer shaft. The removed 5/16" clevis pin can the be reused for GMC227. It´s slightly too long but can be installed with washers to compensate for the length. Sorted...
Now you can install GMC227 on the RH side and still keep the car LHD
Kind regards, Diddi
Posted: Jan 10, 2019 01:46 PM
Barry Brown
511 posts
Joined: 23/06/2008 12:08:31
Location: New Barn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
mini fuel tank retaining strap bracket
hi ben,
you need a 9/16" x 1/4" square nut with a 5/16"UNF hole tapped into it. The nut is then wrapped with a steel bracket that can be made from a piece of scrap panel.
In flat form it is an unequal cross shape 9/16" wide by 2 & 9/16" long apart from the centre section which is 1& 1/8" wide. in the very centre is a 3/8" hole to allow the screw to pass through the nut from above.
to make it, wrap the cross around the nut using a vice and small hammer to shape the folds in the metal. the short sides ideally need a small flash of weld to stop them opening out. the longer sides are used to spot (or plug) weld the assembly to the underside of the floor.
words of wisdom: 1 = don't use thin steel sheet as it doesn't restrict the captive nut from turning otherwise you'll end up making another one. 2 = if the placement of the rear valance closing plate is wrong it will obscure the hole for the bolt and will be a nightmare to weld the new bracket on.
I'll try to find a picture of the original before i took it off. also remember that this is the earthing point for the rear wiring loom so when you put it back togehter you will need to sacrifice the paint underneath the retaining strap.
Posted: Dec 09, 2010 01:10 PM
abs
98 posts
Joined: 08/11/2007 20:20:11
Location: cornwall United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Thread size
If its the 1275 motor with the v shaped bracket held by a single 20mm long bolt its either 5/16" unc or m8 usually. If its easy to do remove a manifold stud and try that as they are 5/16"unc.
Posted: Nov 25, 2011 06:36 PM
Ian
23 posts
Joined: 09/10/2004 19:07:16
Location: Newport, United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
HELP !! ALTERNATOR PROBS...
Can anybody help? I have a 1974 Mini (modified of course) and have just changed my alternator from a 16 ACR to a A127 65amp, because of all the electrical goodies etc. The new one has a slightly bigger pulley on it, but with everything turned on and on tickover it should read about 13.5v on the volt meter and it reads just over 12v, when you rev up it kicks it in like theres no tomorrow, (obviously) so, do I change the pulley for the smaller one off the 16 ACR because its maybe not turning fast enough, or is ther something else gone all to cack?! Any help or advice would be very much appreciated, Cheers, Ian
Posted: Feb 06, 2005 10:14 PM
J. Clarke
Colourtune
you must not press brake with calipers on hoses or pistons will pop out, u can buy rebuild kits for calipers i think u just remove pistons and clean rust from inside, then fit new seals iv got no experience of this id tend to get ones prefeshionally rebuilt for brakes, also for all the effort bleading and setting it up i wouldnt want to find hadnt fixed them properly. it may not be completly seazed just stricking enouth to reduce brake force that side. colour tune will give you an approximate idea of mixture depending on colour of burn. for mot you want clean burn at idle so u can ajjust mixture screw and see how it affects idle mixture. for higher rpm if engine is modifyied its more complicated. you can remove the damper from the carb and stick a plain pencil like stick in with 1/16" divisions marked on it. this will give u an idea of what the burn is like at differnt points of the needle (which determines the mixture). u need to increase the rpm slowly or it will lean out as damper is removed. so for example say from idle it moves 5/16" up and your doing about 2000rpm , its running lean from colour, so u can lightly sand with emmery paper the needle at 5/16" from thickest part. if its running to rich u need thicker needle to start with. its not a quick process by any means but if you dont want to go to rolling road. rember cylinders at ends run leaner then central ones normally with single carb so bare that in mind when tuning. hope that helps. if u get in situation where the piston is moved up fully at say 4000-5000rpm or so its prob good idea to fit stiffer spring in carb or mixture will lean out above that rpm. i hope that helps im not talking from experience here, just knowledge of how carb works so if there are errors in my method i apologise. co (carbon monoxide) meters have kinda made things like colour tune obsoleate but its useful diy mecanic tool espeshally for getting mixture good enouth for a running in after rebuild before rolling road tune.
when u have finished and are happy that the needle is the correct profile u can then look up dimensions (assuming u filed it round) and find an su needle that matches in su needle book. but that is up to u it helps if you go to rolling road after as they will know where there starting from.
Posted: May 25, 2008 11:35 PM
3 posts
Joined: 22/09/2004 21:34:38
Location: Banstead United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Flywheel Bolt MPI
Does anyone know the size of the MPI Flywheel Bolt it is about 1 3/16 or 30mm. I need to get a socket in the morning.
Thanks
Mike
Posted: May 03, 2009 07:58 PM
Re.
Your slave cylinder is probably leaking. Just peel the rubber boot back and see if its wet. Also worth checking the clearance on the collar(big nut) on the end of the flywheel housing, should be 6.5mm gap and if you`re on a pre verto set up the clearance between the long lever and the 7/16" bolt should be about 0.5mm if I remember correctly.
Posted: Jun 06, 2010 07:05 PM
You need to get the tracking done by a tyre fitter/garage but to be able to drive it there you should check the wheels are in line, towing out a 1/16" is about right. Then get yourself to a tyre fitters and get the tracking done by a pro. Minis that are not tracked correctly are evil, twice as bad with a quick rack.
Posted: Jul 08, 2010 10:41 PM