C-AJJ3326 MINI SPARES SLIDE ADJUSTABLE BELT DRIVE KIT

The application of this drive system maintains very accurate and consistent cam and ignition timing, and minimising valve train noise. Desirable advantages that do not diminish with time. The fiberglass reinforced belt eliminates the excessive stretch suffered by chain driven systems - even where a tensioner is used. The protracted control of cam and ignition timing maintains peak performance. Chain drives cause excessive timing scatter, even after relatively short periods of running. The MINI SPARES kit enables A-series owners to benefit from such technology. The adjustable cam gear in this kit allows up to 9 degrees of adjustment, facilitating accurate cam timing. An absolute must when installing a performance camshaft.

FITMENT: Remove the original timing cover. Position gears so that the timing marks on cam and crank gears are adjacent, then remove gears/chain assembly. Remove locating keys. Clean cam and crank gear boss surfaces, ensuring new gears are no more than a l

C-AJJ4004 New road-use front anti-roll bar

This bar has been developed to complement those road cars fitted with post 1990 rubber springs. Being the softest compound yet used on the Mini in an attempt to improve comfort, they allow more body-roll. This bar will not only reduce body-roll, but also slightly reduce dive under braking and squat under acceleration. The bar is aimed at the general daily driver. For more progressive drivers it is highly recommended that its used in conjunction with rear anti-roll bar kit C-AJJ4009. By testing various settings its possible to attain a very well balanced fast road car with improved steering response to compliment the other advantages of these bars. It is made to only fit the standard diameter/dimensioned tie-rods.

SUSPENSION - Basic Priorities

Suspension - Basic priorities for improved suspension performance. Having studied the 'Suspension - Terminology' article you should now have a ‘job description’ understanding of previously possibly un-comprehended words associated with suspension control. Now - what to do with it? The first thing we need to establish is an order of priority before distributing hard-earned 'beer vouchers' in all directions. Fortunately, this is a good deal less complicated than is generally believed. Despite the five main factors that control the front suspension geometry – kingpin inclination, caster angle, camber angle, track, and bump-steer – we are only really able to alter three of those easily. King-pin inclination is non-adjustable, as it’s a feature of where the swivel-pins are mounted on the hub at the factory. It will alter as other adjustments are made, but we can do nothing easily about correcting/optimising it independently, as these are fixed in position on the swivel hub.

CAM TIMING - Basic Notes

To avoid lots of swearing and unnecessary damage, check the timing gears slide neatly onto their respective bosses. If tight, first check for any high spots in the gear bores and key-way slots. Clean out using with fine emery cloth, medium Wet 'n' Dry paper, or some such. Remove the Woodruff keys then dress the bosses using abrasive material as mentioned previously. Re-check fitment before re-fitting keys. Check the key-ways and keys too before re-fitting. Get rid of unwanted sticky-out bits on the keys that would inhibit a slide fit. Clean out the key-way and de-burr top edges. I always file a slight 'flat' across them to give plenty of clearance to the gear key slot. If the pulley is a slack fit on the key, turn it anticlockwise before nipping the bolt up. ALWAYS fit it like this. It's imperative to fit cam (and followers in the case of solid wall blocks) following manufacturers instructions precisely using a good quality cam lube.

Primary Gear - Bush Replacement

With the cost of new primary gears spiralling ever upwards, and the availability of good, serviceable used ones, fitting new bushes to existing gears is becoming a more common solution. For some reasons for bush failures and rectification to stop it re-occurring, see article Primary gear - Bush problems. Since there is no useful information given in any of the workshop or DIY manuals on this subject, following is my approach to dealing with the issue. The first thing to get to grips with is which bush is which. This has added an element of confusion to many conversations I have had with folks on this subject, so - the FRONT bush is the one nearest the engine block, the REAR bush is the top-hat one nearest the flywheel. This is because the front of the engine is actually the radiator end - quoted in 'in-line' engine-speak. The REAR bush is the same on all primary gears - be they for small or large bore engines. The FRONT bush is different for each though; the small-bore one is smaller

Round 1, Mallory Park. 30th March, 2003

At long last, the first race of the season - Mallory Park. This would be the acid test of all the winter work to get the Mini ready for the Super Mighty Minis Championship.

This would be the acid test of all the winter work to get the Mini ready for the Super Mighty Minis Championship. With...

Super Mighty Minis Championship. Rounds 2 and 3.

Brands Hatch was the latest venue to host round 2 and 3 of the Super Mighty Minis Championship in 2003. On a gusty Easter Sunday morning I qualified 8th I could have done better, but I was still getting to grips with the first corner – the infamous Paddock Hill Bend...

Idler Gear - Setting End Float

A fairly crucial part of how the idler gear operates is its tolerances and running clearances. part numbers: 22A1545, 22A1546, 22A1547, 22A1548, 22A1549, DAM4822, DAM4823, DAM4824, DAM4825, GUG705563GM, AAU8424, ADU6033, CCN110, 2A3643, 22A152, 53K547, Terminology: DTI - Dial Test Indicator End float is a continual problem as folk either ignore it through ignorance or lack of accessible information on how to do it, or belief special tools are needed. Also, later factory assembled engine units (from about 1992 onwards) were built up using whatever shims and thrust washers were available, since Rover were not making regular orders for all shim/washer sizes due to the forthcoming end of production. Consequently, many units left Rover with incorrect (usually too big) clearances. The idler gear was no exception. Too tight a clearance and the idler gear will either seize solid when it gets hot, or destroy the thrust washer thrust faces in the comparably soft aluminium gearbox and t

Primary Gear – Bush Problems

Although not of immediate interest to many road-runners/street-burners, mainly accorded to the racing scene, it seems to be a perplexing problem to a very large number of folk around the world, and has burned up plenty of telephone time.

part numbers: 13H2934, LUF10005, CE12, 22G109, DAM8889, DAM8887

With the cost of new primary gears spiralling ever upwards, and the availability of good, serviceable used ones, fitting new bushes to existing gears is becoming a more common solution. For some reasons for bush failures and rectification to stop it re-occurring, see article 'Primary gear - Bush problems'. Since there is no useful information given in any of the workshop or DIY manuals on this subject, following is my approach to dealing with the issue.

The first thing to get to grips with is which bush ...

Brakes - Fundamental Considerations

When looking to increase their cars performance, most folks immediately turn to considering higher engine power outputs. Because of this pre-occupation brakes tend to slide down the improvements priority list. However, they are far more important - being able to accelerate at warp speed to hyper-space in the twinkling of an eye is all very well, but disastrous if you can’t stop. You will make a very big hole in the scenery, and possibly end up wearing an wooden over-coat. Getting the braking system sorted out can help to make the car quicker, as you will be able to more confidently, therefore maximising speed in any given situation. Being one of those ‘sciences’ used in the automotive industry I hope to shed some light on the subject as it's another of those where many questions from confused and mislead folks that clog up my e-mail board. The advent of the Metro, and the brakes used on it has spawned a lot of activity in this direction. It was soon discovered that they could b

Engine - 998 Tuning, Bolt-ons

The 998cc engine is a very robust and tunable unit. It is also the most common engine found in standard Minis. See bottom for useful part numbers Terminology: MSC/MM - Mini Spares Centre/Mini Mania ID - Inside Diameter OD - Outside Diameter BBU - Big Bore Unit (refers to all 1275cc-based units) SBU - Small Bore Unit (refers to all sub-1275cc units, here the 998) BHP - Brake Horse Power LCB - Long Centre Branch Despite the lure of the much-advertised 1380cc alternatives, many simply want to get a little more from what they have at reasonable outlay. The single biggest restriction on any standard Mini is the 'breathing apparatus' - anything that is connected to the induction and exhaust systems. The standard exhaust being the biggest culprit - it is desperately restrictive in the name of noise suppression and cheapness of manufacture. Oddly enough it also increases fuel consumption when tested over a better designed, fre

GEARBOX - Limited Slip Diffs, what's available.

‘Salisbury’ is the word banded about by most un-enlightened folk when discussing LSDs for Minis, mistakenly believing the word covers all Mini orientated LSDs. This is grossly incorrect. Terminology - LSD - Limited Slip Differential The ‘Salisbury’ was designed in the ‘50s at a time when racecars were a good deal less sophisticated than today. Tyres were usually cross-ply with severely limited grip due to poor compounds developed ostensibly for rear-wheel-drive cars; the front wheel drive of the Mini being a rarity. And tracks were more than a little ‘bumpy’. Agriculturally built cars needed an LSD designed along similar lines; enter the Salisbury - effectively developed from a tractor diff. High static pre-loads were more than common to help compensate for severe short-falls in chassis, suspension, and tyre design. To all intents and purposes the diff was practically locked up, making the car a real beast to drive.

GEARBOX - How they work

Having decided on or even implemented a course of action to bolster the performance of your Mini’s engine, maximising it’s potential should encompass a good look at the gearbox.

GEARBOX - How they work

Having decided on or even implemented a course of action to bolster the performance of your Mini’s engine, maximising it’s potential should encompass a good look at the gearbox.

Frenzied activity in the Bill Sollis Racing Mini Miglia Team...

Over the course of the last two weekends there has been frenzied activity in the Bill Sollis Racing Mini Miglia Team. We have raced three times experiencing the full spectrum of highs and lows in the process!

It started at Croix en Ternois in Northern France which The Mini Se7en Racing Club visited for the first time. We had a double header to look forward to and I always enjoy the challenge....

Distributors - working basics

To maximise power and economy potential from any engine, burning the compressed fuel/air mixture at precisely the right point throughout the engines entire rpm range is essential.

Terminology -
TDC - Top Dead Centre
BTDC - Before Top Dead Centre
Dizzy - distributor
CR - compression ratio

To maximise power and economy potential from any engine, burning the compressed fuel/air mixture at precisely the right point throughout the engines entire rpm range is essential. This ‘point’ is generally somewhere before the piston reaches TDC on its power stroke described in degrees - i.e. 10 degrees BTDC. This point isn’t constant throughout the rpm range. Low rpm values are normally less than high ones.

Ultimately the dizzy provides this spark at exactly the right point to effect this burn.

Engine - 998 tuning, bolt-ons (stage one)

The 998cc engine is a very robust and tunable unit. It is also the most common engine found in standard Minis. Despite the lure of the much-advertised 1380cc alternatives, many simply want to get a little more from what they have at reasonable outlay.

Terminology:
MSC/MM - Mini Spares Centre/Mini Mania
BBU - Big Bore Unit (refers to all 1275cc-based units)
SBU - Small Bore Unit (refers to all sub-1275cc units, here the 998)
BHP - Brake Horse Power
CR - Compression Ratio

To improve engine out-put, you need to increase the engine's 'breathing' ability. The stage one kit deals with all the easily bolted-on external parts, and represents the best increase for investment. From here on in the power increases will cost commensurately more money.

RUNNING IN NEW ENGINES

Install engine. It is absolutely imperative that the cooling system is more than sufficient to deal with any temperatures likely to be produced by the engine. More power means more heat to be dissipated. A standard radiator is very unlikely to be able to cope with a reasonable power increase over standard.

Do not fill cooling system yet. Set clutch throw-out and free-play take up. Double-check all connections electrical, oil, fuel and cooling system. Put in engine oil – use a cheap multi-grade mineral oil. DO NOT use either semi or full synthetic oils. They will stop the rings from bedding in. Remove spark plugs, and spin engine over in bursts of a few seconds to pick up oil pressure and prevent starter motor damage. DO NOT start engine until oil pressure picks up.

Once oil pressure is showing, check ignition timing statically. Set to figure advised by distributor maker, or if no figures available, set at around 6-8 degrees BTDC. Re-fit spark plugs a

Engine transplants - Changing FDs and speedo drive ratios.

What they don’t tell you in the manual! Terminology - FD - Final Drive (diff ratio) What they don’t tell you in the manual! If you’ve decided the FD fitted isn’t what you want, changing the FD is possible without separating the engine from the gearbox. Removing the diff case will allow you access to the diff assembly to change the crown-wheel, and access to the gear-change linkage. Use a manual for crown-wheel replacement. While you’re in there it would be just as well to replace the thrust washers and diff-pin as these are the source of many a gearbox problem. Particularly for up-rated engines where fitment for the competition diff-pin is highly recommended. Once again, follow the manual here. Now the bit they don’t tell you how to do... Rod-change types - Removal of the speedo drive housing gives access to the pinion retaining nut (1.5”AF socket needed and a long bar). To be able to undo the pinion nut (torqued up to 150lb ft !!) you need to engage two gears - 2nd and 4th - t

Bill Sollis - Thruxton race report.

Our Brands Hatch successes were followed by a five week break and with holidays to take what better way to enjoy the first two wins of the season. Thruxton loomed up and the sense of expectation is never greater than when contemplating the mega fast Hampshire circuit. Preparations went beyond the usual full spanner check. We have acquired a cylinder leakage....