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C-22A1750 KAD GEARLEVER QUIICKSHIFT FOR REMOTE TYPE GEARBOXES

Remote Change

1. Remove original gearstick. Fit Quickstick with original plastic collar, spring and spring retainer, grease well and refit with new spacer. Place flange downwards using longer 5/16” UNC capscrews.

General fitting instructions

To ensure correct installation of the AP Braking remote vacuum servo unit, thoroughly read and adhere to the fitting instructions prior to carrying out any work on the vehicle. Introduction The vacuum servo unit is incorporated into the hydraulic braking system, remote from the master cylinder, as an intermediate stage operating between the master cylinder and the brake assemblies. The two main parts of the servo unit consist of the vacuum servo mechanism and the hydraulic slave cylinder assembly.

These component parts are bolted together so that the slave cylinder piston is in line with, and is operated by, the servo push rod. A plastic no-return valve is fitted into the vacuum shell and an integral air cleaner is incorporated to prevent foreign matter entering the air control valve chamber. The servo unit is designed to give no assistance with very light brake application. In the absence of servo assistance due to loss of vacuum, an unres...

Gearbox - Common Sources of Problems

Seems recently a number of folk have been suffering gearbox failures of various sorts; nothing new there then except they've popped their heads up over the parapet to ask why. part numbers: C-22A1738, C-22A1731, 88G396, CHM141, 13H9513, 22A611, 22A610, TSP100390, TSP100400, 22G2595 Under closer scrutiny this time around the reasons for bearing failures, gear tooth breakage, and jumping out of gears to name but a few are the sources of hassle. Just like in engine building, a gearbox needs careful and proper attention when building it up. It isn't a difficult job, and most competant DIY mechanics can make a decent job of it. But, just like engine building, it's the knowledge of what to look for prior to and during the build that sets the 'professional' builders apart. Hopefully resulting in a more reliable, perfectly functioning unit. One generally over-looked, or completely missed, feature is where the layshaft is carried in the gearbox casing itself. The shaft merely runs in tw

GEARBOX - Syncro vs 'Dog' engagement

NOTE

; A 'high' or 'low' ratio gear is in reference to it's performance, not it's numerical number. To illustrate - a 'high' FD ratio will give 'higher road speed', but will have a numerically low figure. A 'low' FD ratio will give lower road speed, but have a numerically high figure. part numbers: C-AJJ3371, C-AJJ3319, C-STN39, C-AJJ4014, C-STN76, C-STN77 A by-product of this will be reduced acceleration capability on the 'high' ratio, increased acceleration capability on the 'low' ratio. The main gearbox gears work in the exact same way. Cog swapping Elsewhere we've considered what alternative standard production ratios are available - but that still leaves you with the power-consuming and limited-ratio alternatives helical tooth type gears. Not desirable in a competition orientated car. The solution to this comes in the form of several types of straight-cut gear sets (teeth are cut at 90 degrees across the gear as opposed to the angled helical type).

As outlined in the 'Gearbox - standard production gearbox types' article, it is entirely possible to change the common 4-syncro gearboxes to the helical close-ratio set-up as used in the Cooper S, 1275GT, 1300GT, and some early MG Metros providing the right parts can be sourced. And you don't already un-knowingly have the close-ratio kit fitted! Part numbers are detailed at the end.

The other pre-requisite for this conversion is that it can only be applied to the early, pre-A+ type mainshaft gears. That's those that have the square-topped teeth as supposed to the distinctively pointed A+ profile. This is because despite being endowed with A+-type fittings for the mainshaft end and layshaft, the conversion gears have the pre-A+ tooth profile. This is not to say that the conversion cannot be put into an A+ gearbox casing - it can and is detailed in the relevant article.

What is essential to understand is that the pre-A+ second and third mainshaft gears are going to be

Engine - Identification Data Updated

If you have the engine tag still attached to the engine - just in front/below the thermostat housing - or perhaps the original engine number in the log book then the following should help you determine which engine you have. For Metro units, see 'Engine - Metro identification data'. Original engine identification numbers 850cc 8A Austin up to 25000 8MB Morris up to 25000 8AM Austin & Morris 25000 onwards 8AH Austin & Morris Automatic 8AJ Austin & Morris closed circuit breathing 8AK Austin & Morris automatic with closed circuit breathing 8WR Wolseley Hornet & Riley Elf 8AC Moke 85H/101 All variants 1969 onwards Note: third suffix letter denotes compression type, L = Low, H = High, e.g. 8AM/U/H101 denotes high compression. 998cc 9WR Wolseley Hornet & Riley Elf Mk2, pre closed circuit breathing 9AD Austin, Wolseley Hornet & Riley Elf Mk2 with remote type gearbox and closed

How does this affect performance? Not as many folk believe, that’s for sure. For a start, lightweight flywheel/clutch assemblies don’t necessarily give rough running at idle, particularly where a performance cam is used. Nor do they make the engine produce MORE power. BUT they do make a difference to the ACCELERATIVE performance of the car - and that is what we’re most interested in most of the time! Basically, the engine sees the car as a weight to move, via the gearbox. The combustion pressures created by your common or garden suck-push-bang-blow engine have to accelerate not only the mass of the car as a whole, but the mass of the engine internals too. However, the engine can only accelerate the car at a certain rate with what power is left over after the engine internals have consumed their share. The lighter the rotating and reciprocating parts are made the less power is consumed by them, leaving more to actually accelerate the car.

The first Minis rolled off the production line with a three-syncro gearbox, first gear as explained earlier was still a hit and miss affair.

Terminology -
FD - Final Drive

NOTE; A 'high' or 'low' ratio gear is in reference to it's performance, not it's numerical number. To illustrate - a 'high' FD ratio will give 'higher road speed', but will have a numerically low figure. A 'low' FD ratio will give lower road speed, but have a numerically high figure. A by-product of this will be reduced acceleration capability on the 'high' ratio, increased acceleration capability on the 'low' ratio. The main gearbox gears work in the exact same way.

I’m sure we’re all aware of Sir Alec Issigonis’ brilliant solution to the gearbox location in the Mini - just fold it up underneath the engine, simple. Following is a résumé of the production gearboxes to date.

Engine - Identification data

What they don’t tell you in the manual! Terminology - FD - Final Drive (diff ratio) What they don’t tell you in the manual! If you’ve decided the FD fitted isn’t what you want, changing the FD is possible without separating the engine from the gearbox. Removing the diff case will allow you access to the diff assembly to change the crown-wheel, and access to the gear-change linkage. Use a manual for crown-wheel replacement. While you’re in there it would be just as well to replace the thrust washers and diff-pin as these are the source of many a gearbox problem. Particularly for up-rated engines where fitment for the competition diff-pin is highly recommended. Once again, follow the manual here. Now the bit they don’t tell you how to do... Rod-change types - Removal of the speedo drive housing gives access to the pinion retaining nut (1.5”AF socket needed and a long bar). To be able to undo the pinion nut (torqued up to 150lb ft !!) you need to engage two gears - 2nd and 4th - t

Engine transplants - Ancillary parts

Engine mountings are a whizz to fit as the Mini ones fit straight onto any of the other units. Just remove the Metro/AA/1300GT ones and swop the mounts over from the Mini unit. If they’re split, fit new ones, they’re cheap.

Terminology -
BBU - Big Bore Unit
SBU - Small Bore Unit

NOTE: This information covers transplanting large-bore engine units into small-bore engined Minis. For further information for exact differences between pre-A+ and A+ units, see relevant separate article.

Engine mountings and steady bars.
Engine mountings are a whizz to fit as the Mini ones fit straight onto any of the other units. Just remove the Metro/AA/1300GT ones and swop the mounts over from the Mini unit. If they’re split, fit new ones, they’re cheap. If using the AA/1300GT unit - it's advisable to cut off the 'wings' on the front plate that carried the engine mounts on the radiator end.

A subject worthy of an entire book to explain the whys and wherefores, and also causes much consternation on the part of the transplanter. Terminology - BBU - Big Bore Unit SBU - Small Bore Unit FD - Final Drive (diff ratio) A subject worthy of an entire book to explain the whys and wherefores, and also causes much consternation on the part of the transplanter. Much confusion’s spread over which gearbox has the best ratios, is best to use, and with which FD. For a detailed account on this and covering all gearboxes fitted as standard to the Mini, see the relevant separate articles 'Gearbox - Standard production gearbox types'. Fortunately, when selecting a complete engine and gearbox unit from a Metro, the gearbox will pretty much suit the engine and be easily transplantable whole into the Mini. It shares exactly the same rod-change linkage as the Mini. Difficulties only arise when fitting a rod-change gearbox into a pre-1973 Mini that has the old remote-type gear-change mechan

Modern technology continually sweeps its ever-growing arm across all manufactured products and the SU was no exception. From closer scrutiny, and more demanding emissions control the HIF variant was born. So what have they done to improve it over its predecessor - the HS - and is it worth hanging out for? PROS. Integral float - the 'IF' in the new type number HIF. The previous H and HS type carbs with their side-mounted remote float bowls worked fine until used in racing where serious cornering speeds generated enough G-forces to lean-out the fuel mixture. The remedy was to fit a spacer between the float lid and float bowl to raise the fuel level held in it. OK when running, but at idle and rest, fuel would bubble out of the jet - causing bore washing, poor pick-up, and horrendously rich CO mixtures at idle! Fitting the float integral with the carb, directly below the jet hole (port/orifice), eliminated this problem. Jet temperature compensation - This was first aired on HS types

Oil pressure loss caused by oil surge can be experienced under hard cornering. To alleviate this it is essential to fit a centre oil pick-up pipe.Mini Spares' continual research and development program has seen advances in pick-up pipe design, replacing the original ancient design conceived by Abingdon ST some thirty-plus years ago.

Verto to Pre Verto,Clutch swap

TEST If converting from A plus verto type clutch to the original Diaphragm type these are the major components you will require:

All the major extra parts required to convert from Verto Clutch to Diaphragm type parts (in brackets indicate alternatives)

6 x GHF323 shakeproof washer 3/8” UNF
2 x GFK5240 bolt remote housing short 1” UNC
1 x 88G508 flywheel keyway – pre verto (EN24T)
6 x 2A3658 clutch flywheel strap
1 x 2A3601 clutch return spring anchor
1 x CLZ628 clutch arm pin – bottom
1 x CLZ518 clevis pin for clutch arm at the top
1 x 22A747 flywheel bolt pre verto
3 x 2A3657 clutch bolt long cover to pressure
3 x (C-2A3657 ) clutch bolt long cover to pressure

The bias barrel was originally developed as part of our five speed gearbox package, necessary to facilitate accurate gear selection and gear lever position.

It soon became apparent that this device would vastly improve the gear change on the standard four speed rod change gearbox, endowing Minis and Metros with the ‘modern car’ feel, and taking the quessology out of gear selection.

With the engine and new 5 speed transmission re-installed in the vehicle, the new gear selector parts must be fitted before re-connecting the gear selector extension shaft. The new selector parts can be assembled without removing the gearchange remote from the vehicle. It is recommended that the gear lever be removed....

Following the Brands Hatch race, all was well with the car. Just as well – I was playing catch-up with grinding heads after my nice new grinder tool holder fell apart, and it took the makers 4 weeks to get it back to me. That and magazine work and an emergency engine build for a customer. I made enough time to give me a full morning on the car before having to load it up. Nothing bad came to light. As the race was the last day of a 4 day 'jolly'....

REMOTE CHANGE

Remove original gearstick. Fit Quickstick with original plastic collar, spring and spring retainer, grease well and refit with new spacer. Place flange downwards using longer 5/16” UNC capscrews.

Straight Cut Gear Kits

Table of straight cut gear sets.

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