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2003-08, Oil gallery plugs

Here's something unusual that cropped up a little while ago that I've never commented on before - main oil gallery plugs/bungs.

I'd been conversing via e-mail with a guy that was experiencing weird oil flow/supply problems with his performance street engine. Initially he'd been blaming it on the supposedly superior oil pump he'd bought. He sent it to me; I inspected it and found it to be in perfect health with no signs of causing the issues in hand. Firstly there was a claimed total oil drain down from the pump causing lack of initial supply on start-up for a few seconds, and then repeated crank bearing failures when used in anger (i.e. at high rpm for protracted periods). Unless there is something drastically wrong with the oil pump and fitment - cracked pump body, non-flat mounting surface, mounting bolts too long, split gasket, etc. - it will not drain down simply because the inlet and outlet ports are above the centerline, near the top of the pump as it is mounted to the block.

SUSPENSION - Basic set-up method

Time to arrange all those agonised over, carefully selected and applied suspension components to give of their best.

Suspension - Basic set-up method

part numbers: TOOL10, TOOL11, HILO, HILO-01

Time to arrange all those agonised over, carefully selected and applied suspension components to give of their best.

This is one of those subjects viewed as a ‘black art’, largely because of lack of understanding and confusion. The confusion part is because folk encompass the whole suspension set-up deal with suspension arrangement and design, lack of understanding instilling terror at the thought of ‘fiddling’ with the suspension components. The latter also fuelled by the knowledge that expensive specialist measuring equipment is needed. Well, there is no black art – you can work the magic. More a case of a long day...

Camshafts - Scatter cams, pros and cons

To scatter or not to scatter, that is the question. This whole 'scattering' deal has befuddled many. The only real prose produced on the subject, and 'advice' handed out by many so-called 'specialists' tends to be somewhat tainted with large chunks of mysticism - inferring there's some kind of black art involved. The simple fact is the principle is very basic and easy; it's getting a cam with the right profile and figures applied to it that will actually work as a scatter profile that's the hard part. And this article does not mean I am all for scatter pattern cams. I will illuminate… We are all pretty much aware that the A-series is a real oddity, largely because of the siamese (shared) port work - cylinders 1 & 2 share an inlet port, cylinders 3 & 4 share an inlet port, and cylinders 2 & 3 share an exhaust port. Very weird compared to the more familiar head designs found on almost every other engine type that has one inlet and one exhaust port per cylinder.

Camshaft Design

Elgin Cams is a company that is a direct descendent of such famous California specialists as Isky, Delong, Winfield, etc. etc. Elgin has taken the art of cams into the science of the '90's. Computer designed and handcrafted workmanship guarantee a first class camshaft. Custom designed cams are a specialty. Part No Applications: CAM001, CAM002, CAM003, CAM004, CAM005, CAM006, CAM007 Elgin has made cams or sold his design to General Motors, Ford Motor Co., Nissan Corp., Zakespped International, Porsche Motor Sports, Winston Cup "Engine Builders. Elgin has the largest percentage of cams used at the SCCA Runoffs from GT-1 to Formula-V. He also has provided original or new technology for antique and vintage racers. Much information has been recorded about the four stroke internal combustion engine and yet only a small percentage of people really understand how it works and fewer people know how to modify an engine to suit their needs.

A barmy mid summer-esque May weekend greeted the Super Mighty Mini championship to rounds 3 and 4 at Snetterton, Norfolk. Jokingly nick-named the Far East round by some drivers due to its location, Snetterton is a circuit that as seen some of my better results.

Saturday qualifying saw me achieve a hassle...

What you actually need for the disc/drum conversion is pretty straightforward. Disconnect the steering arms, top and bottom swivel-pins, CV joint, and flexible brake pipes at the subframe - that’s it. There are, however, a number of ancillaries to consider.

Basics

Basics Fitting discs designed for the Mini is easy enough. Just make sure you use CV gaiters for the disc-brake set-up - these have a different bellows shape to stop the gaiter rubbing the inside of the hub. The drum type will rub, then split, shedding grease all over the place. Moly grease is mighty mucky stuff to deal with and doesn't assist braking at all! A tip for racers - to stop the gaiters over-expanding when getting very hot and imitating the aforementioned, put either a decent sized split pin or (my favorite) a piece of very small bore pipe - as in the type supplied with WD40 aerosols, etc. - under the retaining strap on the drive shaft. This allows air to escape and return,

MSE6 - POST 1992 Unleaded Stag

Modified to give maximum performance gain for cost. Combustion chambers, inlet and exhaust ports extensively re-worked. Stone-ground finish in ports promotes ultimate fuel atomisation. Three-angle valve seats in head. Super-quality MG Metro valves modified to increase airflow. MSE6 - POST 1992 unleaded stage 2 (Road Rocket) large-bore head Part No Applications: MSE6, TAM1059, TAM1061, TAM2069, 12G1963, 12G1015, ADU4905 Inlet Valves: 35.6mm(1.401") dia. Original equipment type P/No. TAM1059 Exhaust Valves: 29.2mm(1.150") dia. Original equipment type P/No. TAM1061 Exhaust seats: Latest type Beryllium-based for lead-free fuel P/No. TAM2069 Valve Guides: AE Hepolite cast iron P/No. 12G1963 Valve Springs: Nominal 140lb. Max actual valve lift 0.400" P/No. 12G1015 Stem Seals : Latest 'top-hat' design with tensioner springs (inlets) P/No. ADU4905 Chamber Volume: Nominal 20cc Combustion chamber volume used to give slight static compression ratio increase over

MSE6 - POST 1992 Unleaded Stag

MSE4 - Post 1992

Modified to give maximum performance gain for cost. Combustion chambers, inlet and exhaust ports extensively re-worked. Stone-ground finish in ports promotes ultimate fuel atomisation. MSE4 - POST 1992 unleaded stage 2 (Road Rocket) large-bore head Part No Applications: MSE4, C-AEG544, C-AEG106, TAM2069, C-AJJ4037, C-AEA526, ADU4905 Inlet Valves: 35.6mm(1.401") dia. Tuftrided EN214N s/steel P/No. C-AEG544 Exhaust Valves: 29.5mm(1.161") dia. Tuftrided EN214N s/steel P/No. C-AEG106 Exhaust seats: Latest type Beryllium-based for lead-free fuel P/No. TAM2069 Valve Guides: Magnesium bronze P/No. C-AEA526 Valve Springs: Nominal 180lb. Max actually valve lift 0.500" P/No. C-AJJ4037 Stem Seals: Latest 'top-hat' design with tensioner springs (inlets) P/No. ADU4905 Chamber Volume: Nominal 20cc Three-angle valve seats in head. Cooper S size valves with current maximum flow profiles and Tuftrided for durability/longevity when used with unleaded fuel (hence 'black' finish).

MSE4 - Post 1992

Modified to give maximum performance gain for cost. Combustion chambers, inlet and exhaust ports extensively re-worked. Stone-ground finish in ports promotes ultimate fuel atomisation. MSE4 - POST 1992 unleaded stage 2 (Road Rocket) large-bore head Part No Applications: MSE4, C-AEG544, C-AEG106, TAM2069, C-AJJ4037, C-AEA526, ADU4905 Inlet Valves: 35.6mm(1.401") dia. Tuftrided EN214N s/steel P/No. C-AEG544 Exhaust Valves: 29.5mm(1.161") dia. Tuftrided EN214N s/steel P/No. C-AEG106 Exhaust seats: Latest type Beryllium-based for lead-free fuel P/No. TAM2069 Valve Guides: Magnesium bronze P/No. C-AEA526 Valve Springs: Nominal 180lb. Max actually valve lift 0.500" P/No. C-AJJ4037 Stem Seals: Latest 'top-hat' design with tensioner springs (inlets) P/No. ADU4905 Chamber Volume: Nominal 20cc Three-angle valve seats in head. Cooper S size valves with current maximum flow profiles and Tuftrided for durability/longevity when used with unleaded fuel (hence 'black' finish).

MSE3 -Pre 1992

Modified to give maximum performance gain for cost. Combustion chambers, inlet and exhaust ports extensively re-worked. Stone-ground finish in ports promotes ultimate fuel atomisation. MSE3 - PRE 1992 unleaded Stage 2 (Road Rocket) large-bore head Part No Applications: MSE3, C-AEG544, C-AEG106, TAM2069, C-AJJ4037, C-AEA526, ADU4905 Inlet Valves 35.6mm(1.401") dia. Tuftrided EN214N s/steel P/No. C-AEG544 Exhaust Valves 29.5mm(1.161") dia. Tuftrided EN214N s/steel P/No. C-AEG106 Exhaust seats Latest type Beryllium-based for lead-free fuel P/No. TAM2069 Valve Guides Magnesium bronze P/No. C-AJJ4037 Valve Springs Nominal 180lb. Max actually valve lift 0.500" P/No. C-AEA526 Stem Seals Latest 'top-hat' design with tensioner springs (inlets) P/No. ADU4905 Chamber Volume Nominal 20cc

For the very good and simple reason it minimised airflow obstruction by having the least amount of material in the way. Very plausible, and a design that many have stayed with to this day - surprising considering the magnitude of expertise housed in the more recognised A-series tuners. Probably something along the lines of 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it', or perhaps (and more likely?) 'Can't teach an old dog new tricks'.

However, as time and technology progressed, man's ever-inquisitive nature started to determine more exactly what and why - and airflow activity was not passed over. Not only 'how much' was being measured, but 'where and how' to further determine where improvements could be made. After all - it has long since been realised that the engine is essentially an air pump. The more you get in, the more you get out, so improving the air's tortuous route to the cylinder has to help.

Engine - Running in Procedure

This is another of those subjects that crops up on the message board frequently. I am constantly surprised by the number of engine builders - or people who charge other folk for building engines at any rate - that never hand out such an information sheet. It seems pretty daft to me that having taken a wad of money off of a customer for an engine you've lovingly put together, you'd want to help that person get the very best out of the engine. And the running/breaking in procedure is absolutely crucial. It at least ensures no damage is incurred when the engine first bursts into life. A collection of the usual suspects have explained their own methods on the board, along with various others - many of which probably work just as well for them, a few which are down-right dubious. Following is a sheet I administer with every customer engine I build.

Winter is coming.........

Cold running and why tuned Minis simply quit running when pulling up.

Winter is coming, and with it various issues that affect Minis used throughout the year, no matter what the conditions.

This month's consideration is cold running and why a plethora of tuned Minis simply quit running when pulling up. Ignoring the few that are down to various other ailments, the main issue is just the cold weather. Those that suffer more ...

Since the reasonably recent publishing of a certain Mini tuning, performance and maintenance guide that has strangely coincided with a batch of new readers/devotees of a certain prolifically quoted 'bible' on A-series engine modifications - the subject of all things cylinder head have bounced into the fore once more.

Something I was heavily canvassed over at this years (2003) Mini in The Park event whilst doing duty as Mini 'agony aunt' and 'doctor'… In particular the subject of the combustion chamber was foremost in discussion since the aforementioned 'guide' exhibited a number of wildly different chamber profiles with very little in the way of supportive technical information. Now, I have considered the pros and cons of doing this missive. On one hand, I am not out to increase sales of said guide since I'm not one of its supporters in any way. On the other I am certainly not attempting to belittle the efforts of the featured company as they have long been at the forefront of perf

Cylinder head - Min Tec head range

I'm often asked about the range of cylinder heads I do for Mini Spares/Mini Mania, so here's the low-down…

Although the following range of heads accommodate specific fitments - like pre-1992 where by-pass hoses and heater take-offs on the clutch end of the head are used and post-1992 where neither of these exist, and on SPi (single point injection) heads where they don't usually have a threaded hole for the temperature sender - in reality it is easy to convert almost any of them to fit any other engine since holes are easily blocked off - or by-pass hoses not used, water pumps blanked off and drilled thermostats fitted (see articles on cooling/engine transplants). A list of which is what and what to do to each to convert is at the end of this article.

For more in-depth descriptions of the head specs, see article 'Cylinder head - About Min Tec Heads' - basically the valve sizes used have been decided on after extensive and in-depth flow test...

RUNNING IN NEW ENGINES

Install engine. It is absolutely imperative that the cooling system is more than sufficient to deal with any temperatures likely to be produced by the engine. More power means more heat to be dissipated. A standard radiator is very unlikely to be able to cope with a reasonable power increase over standard.

Do not fill cooling system yet. Set clutch throw-out and free-play take up. Double-check all connections electrical, oil, fuel and cooling system. Put in engine oil – use a cheap multi-grade mineral oil. DO NOT use either semi or full synthetic oils. They will stop the rings from bedding in. Remove spark plugs, and spin engine over in bursts of a few seconds to pick up oil pressure and prevent starter motor damage. DO NOT start engine until oil pressure picks up.

Once oil pressure is showing, check ignition timing statically. Set to figure advised by distributor maker, or if no figures available, set at around 6-8 degrees BTDC. Re-fit spark plugs a

There is no specific large-bore (1275cc-based) head casting number that will fit the 998 engine any easier than any other.

They all have the same problems - generally requiring exhaust valve relief cut-outs machined into the block and re-alignment of the front water gallery transfer ports. However, I would avoid using heads with valves bigger than 35.7mm on the intake since these are too big for most 998 engines unless they are absolutely full-race spec where top end power at high rpm is all that is required.

First of all it is worth checking that you actually need to make the relief cut-outs since some heads have a big enough head face to exhaust valve face clearance to allow fitment without the cut-outs when the standard cam and rocker gear is retained.

If possible, measure the actual valve lift you are getting with the current fitted set-up.

Contrary to popular mis-guidance, all BBUs will fit all four-syncro gearboxes. It was only the three-syncro boxes that varied in casting dimensions causing hassles where 1275s were applied to 850/998 gearbox casings.

Terminology -
BBU - Big Bore Unit (1275cc based engines)
SBU - Small Bore Unit (850/998/1098cc based units)
FD - Final Drive

NOTE: This information is largely for transplanting large-bore engine units into small-bore engined Minis. For further information on up-grading transfer (drop) gears, refer to relevant separate article.

Terminology -
BBU - Big Bore Unit (1275cc based engines)
SBU - Small Bore Unit (850/998/1098cc based units)
FD - Final Drive

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