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Articles search results for cone

Showing 1 to 20 of 39 articles
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TOOL07 RUBBER CONE REMOVAL TOOLFITTING INSTRUCTIONS

This cone removal tool is for metric threaded rubber cone springs only as fitted from 1976, many earlier cars will have now had metric replacements but check before use.

The outer body has a flange on one end which is the bottom to sit on the bulk head where...

Engine - 998 Tuning, Bolt-ons

The 998cc engine is a very robust and tunable unit. It is also the most common engine found in standard Minis. See bottom for useful part numbers Terminology: MSC/MM - Mini Spares Centre/Mini Mania ID - Inside Diameter OD - Outside Diameter BBU - Big Bore Unit (refers to all 1275cc-based units) SBU - Small Bore Unit (refers to all sub-1275cc units, here the 998) BHP - Brake Horse Power LCB - Long Centre Branch Despite the lure of the much-advertised 1380cc alternatives, many simply want to get a little more from what they have at reasonable outlay. The single biggest restriction on any standard Mini is the 'breathing apparatus' - anything that is connected to the induction and exhaust systems. The standard exhaust being the biggest culprit - it is desperately restrictive in the name of noise suppression and cheapness of manufacture. Oddly enough it also increases fuel consumption when tested over a better designed, fre

Injection - Tuning Update 03.14.03

This program of development embarked upon by myself and colleague Mike Barratt (MBE, Lincoln 01522 545189) was instigated by Keith Dodd, owner of Mini Spares centre. His instructions were for us ....

GEARBOX - standard production gearbox types

The first Minis rolled off the production line with a three-syncro gearbox, first gear as explained earlier was still a hit and miss affair.

Terminology -
FD - Final Drive

NOTE; A 'high' or 'low' ratio gear is in reference to it's performance, not it's numerical number. To illustrate - a 'high' FD ratio will give 'higher road speed', but will have a numerically low figure. A 'low' FD ratio will give lower road speed, but have a numerically high figure. A by-product of this will be reduced acceleration capability on the 'high' ratio, increased acceleration capability on the 'low' ratio. The main gearbox gears work in the exact same way.

I’m sure we’re all aware of Sir Alec Issigonis’ brilliant solution to the gearbox location in the Mini - just fold it up underneath the engine, simple. Following is a résumé of the production gearboxes to date.

Air filtration - K&N Air cleaner test.

In the forefront of Mini tuning, improving the over-all breathing capability of the very asthmatic A-series the air filter set-up is one that sees priority attention. All the widely available (and widely varying) stage one tuning kits include at the very least a replacement - and hopefully - high-flow air filter element to fit into the standard plastic case,

In the past few years (well, must be nearly 6 years by now!) since I got involved with writing for the specialist Mini Magazines I have been continually fighting with the problem of limited space. This has limited what I have been able to cover, both in subjects and in details. Up until recently (say the past year or so) I have been covering fairly broad topics in a fairly broad terms and detail. Basically trying to cover perhaps the most popular areas dabbled in by the Mini owning masses.

Cylinder head - Identification by casting number

A+ head castings - despite having the same 12G940 casting number - are considerably different in appearance, loosing the flat area behind the thermostat housing and around the rest of the rocker/head stud areas to a sculptured look - where these areas are replaced by a 'sunken' cast finish. The A+ castings were introduced with the appearance of the Metro in 1980, although some late 1275GTs (1979-on) had them fitted. Generally they are easily recognised by their colour - a putrid yellow on the small-bore castings and bright red on the large-bore ones, a paint finish that is VERY difficult to remove, even in a chemical tank. The MG

See bottom for useful part numbers.

Now this may not be super-sonic speed-inducing power, it could just as well be for maximum economy. In either case, it's the engines volumetric efficiency (VE) under scrutiny - it's ability to breath in as much correctly proportioned air/fuel mix as possible in any given situation.

Engine - 998 tuning, bolt-ons (stage one)

The 998cc engine is a very robust and tunable unit. It is also the most common engine found in standard Minis. Despite the lure of the much-advertised 1380cc alternatives, many simply want to get a little more from what they have at reasonable outlay.

Terminology:
MSC/MM - Mini Spares Centre/Mini Mania
BBU - Big Bore Unit (refers to all 1275cc-based units)
SBU - Small Bore Unit (refers to all sub-1275cc units, here the 998)
BHP - Brake Horse Power
CR - Compression Ratio

To improve engine out-put, you need to increase the engine's 'breathing' ability. The stage one kit deals with all the easily bolted-on external parts, and represents the best increase for investment. From here on in the power increases will cost commensurately more money.

Engine - 1275, 95bhp sports/tourer test result

DIY enthusiasts often believe that building an engine to give excellent all-round road performance is beyond them. Mainly from comparisons made between what they have been able to achieve and what specialists say should be achievable from any particular type of engine build.

Generally scrambled further by the non-perfect match of parts and components used between aforementioned specialist and erstwhile DIY-er, and the ritual 'nose-tapping and knowing winks' display of those specialists. Something you can very nearly 'see' even when talking to such folk on the phone - or that inimitable 'ah, yes, well…' So some form of 'black art' is implied. Whilst there is most definitely a degree of 'feel' involved between the real specialist's results and those of just a good engineer - the bones of the deal is subject to no such thing and is certainly within the capability of the DIY enthusiast given the necessary information. And that has been the problem.

SU Carbs - Quick reference needle selection

Since there is already a very good source of starting points/applications for fixed needle carbs, this is for those floundering about in the wilderness that is the biased (swinging) needle example of the breed.

Unfortunately I cannot give an all-encompassing table of what needles are needed for which engine builds. My life's collection of all the automotive-orientated work I'd ever done was stolen out of my car by some low-life scum a few years back. Not for what it was - but for what it might be. All I have is a few scribbled notes, the source of where I start now. Being an oft-voiced question on the message board, I thought I'd share it with you. Since there is already a very good source of starting points/applications for fixed needle carbs, this is for those floundering about in the wilderness that is the biased (swinging) needle example of the breed.

Suspension - Dampers, basic knowledge

The damper's job is very simple to explain - to keep the tyre in contact with the ground wherever and whenever possible...

C-AJJ4008 ADJUSTABLE REAR ANTI-ROLL BAR FITTING INSTRUCTIONS

Jack rear of car up, and place securely on axle stands, positioned to allow maximum access to rear subframe/rear radius arms area. Remove rear exhaust hanger to exhaust clamp or un-hook rubber loop on late type cars. Using suitable saw, cut off centralising tab from bottom center of subframe rear cross member. Remove rear wheels and brake drums. Remove upper most and rear most brake back plate to radius arm nuts and bolts.

BG5101MS - Fitting instructions - STEERING COLUMN ADJUSTER BRACKET

This bracket is designed to adjust the rake/height of the steering column and wheel. Incorrect fitment will cause premature wear and damage to steering column and rack, so the following MUST be adhered to.

1. Remove column to mounting bracket shear bolt. If the bolt head has actually been sheared off, this is easily accomplished using a small centre or pin punch, working around the edge of the...

HILO - ADJUSTABLE MINI SUSPENSIONFITTING INSTRUCTIONS

Suitable for all Minis with “dry” rubber cone suspension, including vans, Travellers and Riley/ Wolseley saloons. General Information

These specialized and RAC FIA homologated suspension components are designed to allow the ride height of all Minis with “dry” suspension to be easily adjusted. In addition, the diameter of the rubber cone support lip is larger than the standard cone to increase effective spring rate. This makes them suitable for fitment in all the following cases:-

ROAD CARS - For load carrying and towing to optimise handling and adjustment.

RALLY CARS - Increase height for rough forestry stages then lower for smooth tarmac.

RACE CARS - Stiffen and lower the suspension as far as possible but can still be raised for bumpy circuits.

MINISPARES HISTORIC RALLY TEAM - 2005 SEASON - PART1

After a major engine rebuild carried out by MED in Leicester designed to give a stronger bottom end with a fully specified crankshaft and their special high torque camshaft (STR 930) to make the car more driveable.

The S rods were smoothed, polished and whole assembly balanced giving a very usable power band from 3000 to 7000, but capable of revving to 8000 safely.

My own Twin point by Keith Dodd 1st June 2006

Having now covered 17000 miles in my twinpoint from new it developed bad oil leaks making it a true mini. The rocker cover seals perished along with a diff output shaft seal. The leaks now rectified, Duckhams oil was used to refill the engine.

My own Twin point by Keith Dodd 1st June 2006 making it a true Having now covered 17000 miles in my twinpoint from new it developed bad oil leaks mini.

My own Twin point by Keith Dodd 1st June 2006

Having now covered 17000 miles in my twinpoint from new it developed bad oil leaks making it a true mini. The rocker cover seals perished along with a diff output shaft seal. The leaks now rectified, Duckhams oil was used to refill the engine.

My own Twin point by Keith Dodd 1st June 2006 making it a true Having now covered 17000 miles in my twinpoint from new it developed bad oil leaks mini.

Verto Clutches - Alternatives and differences.

This article has been written owing to the increasing amount of people who ring Mini Spares stating that their 1275cc Injection type Mini will not start after fitting a new clutch...

MINI SPARES Crew Win In Belgium

The Classic Rally Association -2009 Poppy Rally 21/22 March

Over 60 classic rally crews travelled to Ypres on 20th March to enjoy a fantastic rally around the tight roads and farm tracks in the most famous rallying territory in Belgium. The mainly British entries were mixed with a dozen crews from Belgium and Holland , and were to tackle a total of 565 kilometres over the 2 days and a night. Several Mini crews were entered....

C-22A1741 - COMPETITION BAULK RING – Fitting Instructions

Manufactured from high-tensile manganese-bronze, these baulk rings were developed for competition use where the standard sintered metal baulk rings have proven far from adequate. This material is not to be confused with the brass/silicone- brass materials, all-over-machined, experimented unsuccessfully with by others in the late eighties/early nineties. It is a purpose-sourced material, precision cast and finished-machined using the very latest technology....

East Anglian Classic Rally - David Smalley and Peter Horsburgh

With a couple of weeks to go, as a new member of Kings Lynn and District MC, I decided to to enter as a club crew for our local HRCR Clubmans Championship round in Norfolk.

Out of the total of 34 crews there were 3 Mini Cooper S’s ,2 Austin 1275GT’s and 1 very smart Wolseley Hornet . The following is his report and I hope it will encourage more MCR members to bring out their cars on Historic rallies.
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