Title

Home
Articles Search
circuit

Articles search results for circuit

Showing 1 to 20 of 129 articles

SPECIAL £10 TICKET DEAL for Castle Combe Circuit on Monday 6th April

AND AWAY WE GO – ANNOUNCING A SPECIAL £10 TICKET DEAL FOR THE FIRST ROUNDS OF 2015 DUNLOP MINI SE7EN & MINI MIGLIA CHALLENGE at Castle Combe Circuit supported by MINI SPARES

"Thanks very much for a great day, I was very well looked after by a great bunch of people all day and with the great racing and fantastic weather it all added up to make the perfect experience. Thanks again !"

The month of October, miserable for some; normally cold, wet and windy. Not for those of us in the Mini 7 Racing Club that opted to enter the British Race Festival at Circuit Park Zandvoort. Glorious sunshine forecast for the first weekend in October, free race entry, a road trip and an iconic race circuit. It was fair to say this was far too great an opportunity for the Mini Spares sponsored mini se7en team of BigMacRacing to turn down!

SUSPENSION - Basic set-up method

Time to arrange all those agonised over, carefully selected and applied suspension components to give of their best.

Suspension - Basic set-up method

part numbers: TOOL10, TOOL11, HILO, HILO-01

Time to arrange all those agonised over, carefully selected and applied suspension components to give of their best.

This is one of those subjects viewed as a ‘black art’, largely because of lack of understanding and confusion. The confusion part is because folk encompass the whole suspension set-up deal with suspension arrangement and design, lack of understanding instilling terror at the thought of ‘fiddling’ with the suspension components. The latter also fuelled by the knowledge that expensive specialist measuring equipment is needed. Well, there is no black art – you can work the magic. More a case of a long day...

Brands Hatch was the latest venue to host round 2 and 3 of the Super Mighty Minis Championship in 2003. On a gusty Easter Sunday morning I qualified 8th I could have done better, but I was still getting to grips with the first corner – the infamous Paddock Hill Bend...

A barmy mid summer-esque May weekend greeted the Super Mighty Mini championship to rounds 3 and 4 at Snetterton, Norfolk. Jokingly nick-named the Far East round by some drivers due to its location, Snetterton is a circuit that as seen some of my better results.

Saturday qualifying saw me achieve a hassle...

Gearbox - Up-rating diffs and FDs

There’s a good selection of straight-cut final FDs available. Examine the FD table, and using information from

'Gearbox - Final dives, standard' and 'Gearbox - Formulae for car speed, etc.'

you can assess which would best suit your usage. Bear in mind that they’re noisy, make sure you select one that’ll fit your diff unit, and also consider that using drop gears will allow fine-tuning of the ratio where necessary. See

'Gearbox - Up-rating drop gears'

Gearbox - Up-rating diffs, FDs and ancillaries.

part numbers: C-BTA166, C-BTA167, DAM6624, BTA101, 2A7062, DAM5071, DAM6027, RPS1418, C-AJJ3385, C-22A1731, ...Read more

GEARBOX - Syncro vs 'Dog' engagement

NOTE

; A 'high' or 'low' ratio gear is in reference to it's performance, not it's numerical number. To illustrate - a 'high' FD ratio will give 'higher road speed', but will have a numerically low figure. A 'low' FD ratio will give lower road speed, but have a numerically high figure. part numbers: C-AJJ3371, C-AJJ3319, C-STN39, C-AJJ4014, C-STN76, C-STN77 A by-product of this will be reduced acceleration capability on the 'high' ratio, increased acceleration capability on the 'low' ratio. The main gearbox gears work in the exact same way. Cog swapping Elsewhere we've considered what alternative standard production ratios are available - but that still leaves you with the power-consuming and limited-ratio alternatives helical tooth type gears. Not desirable in a competition orientated car. The solution to this comes in the form of several types of straight-cut gear sets (teeth are cut at 90 degrees across the gear as opposed to the angled helical type).

GEARBOX - Final Drives, standard

FDs are ultimately responsible for the way your Mini goes after engine, gearbox, and under carriage tweaking has been applied. part numbers: DAM3647, 22G443, 22G101, 22G340, 22G338, DAM4131, 22A399, DAM4162, 22G940, 22A399, DAM2677, DAM2679, 22A411, 22A413, DAM2808, DAM6327, DAM2808, TCC10001, Terminology - FD - Final Drive/diff ratio The aforementioned and the degree to which it has been done will affect the decision as to what FD is required. They’re also responsible for much discussion between many tuning freaks, and confusion to the less informed. There’s nothing weird or scientific about it. Maximum acceleration requires a low final drive, top speed a high one. And these two terms confuse most. The confusion being the LOWER number denotes a HIGHER gear. Likewise the higher number denotes a lower gear. Likewise the higher number denotes a lower gear. Largely because the lower the ratio, the slower you go and vice versa.

Brakes - Fundamental Considerations

When looking to increase their cars performance, most folks immediately turn to considering higher engine power outputs. Because of this pre-occupation brakes tend to slide down the improvements priority list. However, they are far more important - being able to accelerate at warp speed to hyper-space in the twinkling of an eye is all very well, but disastrous if you can’t stop. You will make a very big hole in the scenery, and possibly end up wearing an wooden over-coat. Getting the braking system sorted out can help to make the car quicker, as you will be able to more confidently, therefore maximising speed in any given situation. Being one of those ‘sciences’ used in the automotive industry I hope to shed some light on the subject as it's another of those where many questions from confused and mislead folks that clog up my e-mail board. The advent of the Metro, and the brakes used on it has spawned a lot of activity in this direction. It was soon discovered that they could b

You can only use the MS72 adjustable brake regulator/bias valve with a front/rear split system. Definitely NOT the diagonal split type (for identification see 'Brakes - Rear brake bias adjustment'). These should have been 'X-ed' at birth. Makes the car handle very interestingly when the system only operates the diagonally opposed brakes. Scary stuff. Almost as much fun as when the rears only work on a front/rear split set-up - particularly as the PDWA is built into the master cylinder, and it still has to go through the FAM7821 pressure regulator valve! Damn near no braking on the rear. Either way - split system brakes are grossly inefficient when only using half the system as they are designed to do when a failure in the other half occurs. Quite frightening. To install the MS72 into a front/rear split system, it needs fitting into the rear feed line. Determining which this is can prove difficult if the system has already been tampered with or new replacement components fitted. Nam

Valve Guides - Materials and Useage

Material choices for guides are down to two distinct types - cast iron and bronze. Yes, cast iron. NOT steel as described in many adverts and by vendors. Never have been, never will be. These are as fitted to the various A-series cylinder heads as standard in all applications. Cast iron is used because it is a very dissimilar metal from any used in valve manufacture - important to eliminate galling that causes seizure of the valves in the guides - is softer, yet resilient enough to wear well. Bronze, on the other hand, is a very general description as there are a variety of 'bronzes' used by various folk. In days gone by, the bronze base type used was 'PB1' (also known as 'Navy Bronze') - a phosphor-bronze alloy that was very orange in colour, and very soft, used primarily in race engines. Unfortunately they wore out very quickly. Silicone-brass content bronze is probably the most popular now - often with a high aluminium or manganese content - is very yellow/gold in colour.

Engine - Identification Data Updated

If you have the engine tag still attached to the engine - just in front/below the thermostat housing - or perhaps the original engine number in the log book then the following should help you determine which engine you have. For Metro units, see 'Engine - Metro identification data'. Original engine identification numbers 850cc 8A Austin up to 25000 8MB Morris up to 25000 8AM Austin & Morris 25000 onwards 8AH Austin & Morris Automatic 8AJ Austin & Morris closed circuit breathing 8AK Austin & Morris automatic with closed circuit breathing 8WR Wolseley Hornet & Riley Elf 8AC Moke 85H/101 All variants 1969 onwards Note: third suffix letter denotes compression type, L = Low, H = High, e.g. 8AM/U/H101 denotes high compression. 998cc 9WR Wolseley Hornet & Riley Elf Mk2, pre closed circuit breathing 9AD Austin, Wolseley Hornet & Riley Elf Mk2 with remote type gearbox and closed

Modified engines producing more power generally induce owners to drive with greater verve, particularly when competing in one of the many motorsport disciplines. Terminology - LSD - Limited Slip Differential In fact this isn’t isolated to modified Minis. Owners of relatively standard machinery competing in a discipline or merely out on a country lane blast are subject to the same determination. The more verve/determination applied, the more of a struggle keeping your Mini on the designated track becomes. Generally the problem is down to grip - or more precisely the lack of it. Suspension modifications and extensive twiddling of geometry settings can provide improvements in stability, both for straight lines and turn in/mid corner performance. But even throwing bucket loads of cash at super high grade dampers, and the odd arm/leg/lung handed over to ‘professional’ chassis tuners doesn’t solve the particular grip problem we’re interested in here - corner exit/acceleration grip, or

‘Salisbury’ is the word banded about by most un-enlightened folk when discussing LSDs for Minis, mistakenly believing the word covers all Mini orientated LSDs. This is grossly incorrect. Terminology - LSD - Limited Slip Differential The ‘Salisbury’ was designed in the ‘50s at a time when racecars were a good deal less sophisticated than today. Tyres were usually cross-ply with severely limited grip due to poor compounds developed ostensibly for rear-wheel-drive cars; the front wheel drive of the Mini being a rarity. And tracks were more than a little ‘bumpy’. Agriculturally built cars needed an LSD designed along similar lines; enter the Salisbury - effectively developed from a tractor diff. High static pre-loads were more than common to help compensate for severe short-falls in chassis, suspension, and tyre design. To all intents and purposes the diff was practically locked up, making the car a real beast to drive.

The red lights went out after a short wait and the 2005 season was underway. I held position and went early on the attack,

It seems remarkable, but a winter break of over six months is never enough time to prepare a racing car! The truth is, at long last I've completely refurbished the hall, stairs and landing at home. That concludes a 7 and a half year ...

Electrical - Terminal fixation

'To solder or not to solder, that is the question'

Despite having spent something in the order of 26 years delving into all things automotive and some 24 of those concentrating a great deal on the Mini, I have never assumed I know it all. In fact I'm very much one of those to support the 'you never stop learning' theory. My latest endeavours to get out racing again have caused me to look at all things connected (sorry - pun) with racecar preparation - the wiring loom being one such item.

I decided to canvas everybody I knew that was involved with electronics and electrics to any degree to see what the latest state of ply was concerning fixing terminals to cables. 'To solder or not to solder, that is the question'. All my previous racecars (last one built about 14 years ago) had all the terminals carefully soldered on. It used to take me ages; taking a remarkably long time to become proficient at it - largely because of the 'not too hot' soldering iron I'd purchased to do th

Engine - 998 tuning, further options

Following on from the easily bolted on performance enhancing components out-lined in the stage one section, we need to consider where to go to get more power output.

Terminology:
MSC/MM - Mini Spares Centre/Mini Mania
BBU - Big Bore Unit (refers to all 1275cc-based units)
SBU - Small Bore Unit (refers to all sub-1275cc units, here the 998)
BHP - Brake Horse Power
CR - Compression Ratio

To improve engine out-put, you need to increase the engine's 'breathing' ability. The stage one kit deals with all the easily bolted-on external parts, and represents the best increase for investment. From here on in the power increases will cost commensurately more money. Power production of any engine, once the 'breathing apparatus' (induction/exhaust system) has been dealt with to cause no restriction ...

Engine - Identification data

The widespread and prolific fitment of Metro engines into Minis - usually those endowed as standard with small-bore (850/998/1098) engines - practiced in the UK has been spreading to many other countries worldwide.

So it's not surprising that the most commonly asked question has also become more prolific concerning the fitment of said engine - apart from actually how to manage the transplant and the differences in the installations, covered in articles relevant article on this site - is just which type of engine the individual concerned has bought or what they already have fitted to their car and is it worth keeping or junking. One initial question I pose often draws a pregnant silence whilst said inquiree scrambles their brains trying to find an answer for. Following that protracted pause, 'I dunno' is the usual answer. I then have to get into a lengthy explanation as to how to determine what said engine is.

Articles search results for circuit

Contact Mini Spares

Store Details:

Classic Mini Brochure & Manuals