CHANGING FROM DYNAMO TO ALTERNATOR

Completing this change successfully, easily and neatly is pretty straightforward on a Mini. The alternator contains the regulator and cut out functions within it’s casing, so makes the regulator box used with a dynamo redundant.

Part No Applications: GEU205, GEU205MS, GEU207, GXE2297
However, it is useful to retain the box itself and it’s connectors. It acts as a terminal box to make the installation neat, avoiding the messy and awkward soldering/taping together bunches of wires. It also maintains a period look, plus makes reversal easy should this be needed in the future.

Disconnect the battery and remove the black regulator box from the car - taking care to make a note of or label each wire removed with it’s original terminal connection. Fit the alternator using the necessary rear support bracket (part no. 12G1053) as the alter

Crankshaft - Standard Production Crank Identification

Yes, contrary to what many say/express, all cranks are forged. None are cast. They wouldn't last 2 minutes in an engine if they were cast - they'd be way too brittle. Below is a list of crankshaft identification data by forging or stamped numbers - yes, contrary to what many say/express, all cranks are forged. None are cast. They wouldn't last 2 minutes in an engine if they were cast - they'd be way too brittle. The differences are in the material used, finish machining detail and any heat treatments applied. It is by no means complete and utterly correct/infallible since Austin/Morris, British Leyland, Leyland cars, Austin Rover, rover, et al were seriously prone to not adhering to specifications and applications lists. But it is better than nothing at all! 22A62 850cc - Early type with oil feed for primary gear, 1.375" dia. tail 22A63 850cc - Early type with oil feed for primary gear, 1.375" dia. tail

Engine - Identification Data Updated

If you have the engine tag still attached to the engine - just in front/below the thermostat housing - or perhaps the original engine number in the log book then the following should help you determine which engine you have. For Metro units, see 'Engine - Metro identification data'. Original engine identification numbers 850cc 8A Austin up to 25000 8MB Morris up to 25000 8AM Austin & Morris 25000 onwards 8AH Austin & Morris Automatic 8AJ Austin & Morris closed circuit breathing 8AK Austin & Morris automatic with closed circuit breathing 8WR Wolseley Hornet & Riley Elf 8AC Moke 85H/101 All variants 1969 onwards Note: third suffix letter denotes compression type, L = Low, H = High, e.g. 8AM/U/H101 denotes high compression. 998cc 9WR Wolseley Hornet & Riley Elf Mk2, pre closed circuit breathing 9AD Austin, Wolseley Hornet & Riley Elf Mk2 with remote type gearbox and closed

Cooling - Controlling water temperature

The introduction of the Cooper S proved to be a testing time for the Mini’s systems, but conveniently provide a guideline as to what the standard cooling system was capable of - that used on the ‘S’ was marginal to say the least!

It wasn’t uncommon for many S’s to spew water from their overflow pipes when ever it was doing anything other than a steady 70 miles an hour, over-heating eventually caused through water loss. Perhaps some deductions can be made from the following…

There are a number of elements involved in controlling water temperature. Some confusion over what to sort first when over-heating occurs leads to wasted time and money, and possibly terminal engine damage. Maximum power is usually generated from A-series engines at 70 – 75 degrees C (160 to 170 degrees F). The main problem with this on a road car is the oil’s unlikely to get hot enough for maximum performance – the results outlined previously.

Cylinder head - Min Tec head range

I'm often asked about the range of cylinder heads I do for Mini Spares/Mini Mania, so here's the low-down…

Although the following range of heads accommodate specific fitments - like pre-1992 where by-pass hoses and heater take-offs on the clutch end of the head are used and post-1992 where neither of these exist, and on SPi (single point injection) heads where they don't usually have a threaded hole for the temperature sender - in reality it is easy to convert almost any of them to fit any other engine since holes are easily blocked off - or by-pass hoses not used, water pumps blanked off and drilled thermostats fitted (see articles on cooling/engine transplants). A list of which is what and what to do to each to convert is at the end of this article.

For more in-depth descriptions of the head specs, see article 'Cylinder head - About Min Tec Heads' - basically the valve sizes used have been decided on after extensive and in-depth flow test...

Engine - Identification data

If you have the engine tag still attached to the engine - just in front/below the thermostat housing - or perhaps the original engine number in the log book then the following should help you determine which engine you have. For Metro units, see 'Engine - Metro identification data'. Original engine identification numbers 850cc 8A Austin up to 25000 8MB Morris up to 25000 8AM Austin & Morris 25000 onwards 8AH Austin & Morris Automatic 8AJ Austin & Morris closed circuit breathing 8AK Austin & Morris automatic with closed circuit breathing 8WR Wolseley Hornet & Riley Elf 8AC Moke 85H/101 All variants 1969 onwards Note: third suffix letter denotes compression type, L = Low, H = High, e.g. 8AM/U/H101 denotes high compression.

Engine - Metro engine identification data

The widespread and prolific fitment of Metro engines into Minis - usually those endowed as standard with small-bore (850/998/1098) engines - practiced in the UK has been spreading to many other countries worldwide.

So it's not surprising that the most commonly asked question has also become more prolific concerning the fitment of said engine - apart from actually how to manage the transplant and the differences in the installations, covered in articles relevant article on this site - is just which type of engine the individual concerned has bought or what they already have fitted to their car and is it worth keeping or junking. One initial question I pose often draws a pregnant silence whilst said inquiree scrambles their brains trying to find an answer for. Following that protracted pause, 'I dunno' is the usual answer. I then have to get into a lengthy explanation as to how to determine what said engine is.

Ignition - Establishing a TDC reference point

Establishing an accurate TDC reference point is of paramount importance when developing and monitoring ignition timing (and cam timing come to that). Terminology - TDC - Top Dead Centre BTDC - Before Top Dead Centre Establishing an accurate TDC reference point is of paramount importance when developing and monitoring ignition timing (and cam timing come to that). When an experienced engine builder assembles an engine - no matter whether for road or race - he will establish an accurate TDC indicator that can be used for ignition purposes. Usually contrived as a rigid pointer aligning to a corresponding mark on the crank pulley in a position easy to see with the engine installed. Unfortunately, many of us have to deal with engines that haven't had such attention to detail - so either have to make do with the standard ignition timing graduated scale if it's there or sort something else out.

Ignition - Pertronix Ignitor issues

I have been using the Ignitor ignition systems for some 8 years or so, as long as they have available in the UK, and have never found fault with them nor had any reliability issues. Until the beginning of this year… A new customer for this year, racing an MG Midget here in UK under a limited mods category, was doing splendidly for the first couple of races, then started experiencing a misfire. Initially it was believed to be a fuel starvation/vaporization issue. All fuel pipes were checked and re-routed where it was considered necessary. Those still considered in danger of getting too warm were heat shielded. The misfire persisted. On to the ignition system. All was checked, but then a loose alternator wire was found and blamed for the fault. It wasn't. Back to the ignition system then.

Lubrication - Temperature critical

The correct running temperature of the oil is perhaps even more important than the water/coolant temperatures - so let us consider how to control them.

Mainly because it seems to be the most misunderstood of the whole process, and oil cooler fitment almost a reflex when over-heating occurs where a tuned engine of any type is concerned. And in many cases on standard production road cars for that matter.

Almost since the appearance of the immortal Cooper S, fitting an oil cooler has been the essential thing to do to any tuned Mini without any comprehension why. The original fitment was necessary because oil and bearing technology wasn't too advanced. Asking an oil of yester-year to cope with lubricating an engine at racing speeds, and a gearbox pushed their performance to the edge of their all too narrow capability, so extreme control over their working environment was essential for reliability. Hence oil cooler fitment.

C-AEG455, C-AEG476, C-AEG477, C-AEG478, C-AEG479, C-AEG480 - TOOTH-BELT DRIVE SY...

These systems have been developed where positive drive is required for water pump and charging system.

They circumvent problems caused by standard ‘V’ belts being turned or thrown because of ill-fitting belts or mis-aligned pulleys.

C-AEA538 POLY V BELT DRIVE KIT

C-AEA538 kit contains pulleys for the crankshaft, water pump and dynamo or alternator.

The dynamo/alternator pulley has a 15mm hole size and will not fit later cars from 1985 on which have a 22mm size alternator shaft unless enlarged by an engineering company. The pulleys should be checked for alignment when fitting as some water pumps may require spacers. The fanbelt included is also available as a spare part C-AEA540

My own Twin point by Keith Dodd 1st June 2006

Having now covered 17000 miles in my twinpoint from new it developed bad oil leaks making it a true mini. The rocker cover seals perished along with a diff output shaft seal. The leaks now rectified, Duckhams oil was used to refill the engine.

My own Twin point by Keith Dodd 1st June 2006 making it a true Having now covered 17000 miles in my twinpoint from new it developed bad oil leaks mini.

My own Twin point by Keith Dodd 1st June 2006

Having now covered 17000 miles in my twinpoint from new it developed bad oil leaks making it a true mini. The rocker cover seals perished along with a diff output shaft seal. The leaks now rectified, Duckhams oil was used to refill the engine.

My own Twin point by Keith Dodd 1st June 2006 making it a true Having now covered 17000 miles in my twinpoint from new it developed bad oil leaks mini.

Bill Sollis - End of Season Report

I really can't begin to explain the full range of emotions I felt heading to Donington for the final round of the 2006 Dunlop Mini Miglia National Championship. The season was finishing on a high with good grid sizes maintained right through the year, one of the best tracks in the country and a Great & British meeting with plenty of Mini interest.

But of course, the biggest deal was deciding...

Standard Classic Mini Winter Checks

In order to keep your Mini in full working order this winter, we have put together a small guide of things to check, besides the routine servicing

Cooling System
Antifreeze is a must in a Mini for the winter. A Winter mix of Antifreeze to water over the winter will stop any potential problems with freezing conditions.
Cooling Hoses. Check the condition of all...

02.09.07 - Donington Park Report by Keith Calver

Once again I found myself swamped with work causing the now familiar last minute rush to check the race car over before departing to Donnington. This race weekend was going to be a very different affair than what has become the norm. Karin was having to work the weekend, my 'opposition' in my class and in another Clubby - Steve (Young) - has resigned himself to doing the last race of the year at Oulton park due to work pressures, and stats man and hospitality provider Keith (Manning – now Otto v

Brands Hatch Bump and Bubbles

Since I last wrote my blog for you all I have not stopped for 5 mins to get my breath so please bear with my fading memory as I write about all that's gone on since the Silverstone race weekend in June. After Silverstone, Justin Cooper asked me if we could go to Brands in his car with two seats so I could teach him the fast way around the track! A decision he and I both regret very much now.

2016 Donington Park – BigMacRacing / Kieren McDonald

The Leicestershire circuit of Donington Park hosted rounds 7 & 8 of the Dunlop mini se7en challenge and mini miglia, both supported by Mini Spares.
In the lead up to the event there had been severe flooding across the UK but luckily it was forecast to be dry during the event. Hunter Racetech prepped
the car ahead of the meet but unfortunately not for Max, as he was off on a pre-booked trip to Le Mans....

Cylinder head 2022