Brakes - Split brake systems and adjustable bias valves

You can only use the MS72 adjustable brake regulator/bias valve with a front/rear split system. Definitely NOT the diagonal split type (for identification see 'Brakes - Rear brake bias adjustment'). These should have been 'X-ed' at birth. Makes the car handle very interestingly when the system only operates the diagonally opposed brakes. Scary stuff. Almost as much fun as when the rears only work on a front/rear split set-up - particularly as the PDWA is built into the master cylinder, and it still has to go through the FAM7821 pressure regulator valve! Damn near no braking on the rear. Either way - split system brakes are grossly inefficient when only using half the system as they are designed to do when a failure in the other half occurs. Quite frightening. To install the MS72 into a front/rear split system, it needs fitting into the rear feed line. Determining which this is can prove difficult if the system has already been tampered with or new replacement components fitted. Nam

C-AJJ3328 MINI SPARES VERNIER ADJUSTABLE CAM BELT DRIVE

No Longer Available see C-AJJ3328RACE

The ubiquitous toothed belt cam drive system, originally developed for high performance race engines, is now generally accepted as the norm on all state of the art modern engines.

C-AJJ3328RACE MINI SPARES VERNIER ADJUSTABLE CAM BELT DRIVE KIT - FITTING INSTRU...

The application of this drive system maintains very accurate and consistent cam and ignition timing, and minimising valve train noise. Desireable advantages that do not diminish with time. The fiberglass reinforced belt all but eliminates the excessive stretch suffered by chain driven systems - even where a tensioner is used.

C-AJJ4006 ADJUSTABLE FRONT RACE ANTI-ROLL BAR

Instruction Sheet (Please read in full before installing anti-roll bar)

The mounting blocks are to be fixed at each end of the bar under the front of the subframe where there is a double thickness of metal close to the forward tie-bar brackets. Loosely assemble the blocks to the bar, one positioned between the locating rings - offer the bar up to the lower front edge of the front subframe.

C-AJJ4008 ADJUSTABLE REAR ANTI-ROLL BAR FITTING INSTRUCTIONS

Jack rear of car up, and place securely on axle stands, positioned to allow maximum access to rear subframe/rear radius arms area. Remove rear exhaust hanger to exhaust clamp or un-hook rubber loop on late type cars. Using suitable saw, cut off centralising tab from bottom center of subframe rear cross member. Remove rear wheels and brake drums. Remove upper most and rear most brake back plate to radius arm nuts and bolts.

21A1091 - Fitting Instructions - Heavy Duty Adjustable Tie Rods

These rods have been produced to improve car stability when cornering and braking and to facilitate easy adjustment of caster angle. Manufactured from a high-grade material in a much bigger diameter they are less susceptible to bending than the standard items.

C-AJJ3326 MINI SPARES SLIDE ADJUSTABLE BELT DRIVE KIT

The application of this drive system maintains very accurate and consistent cam and ignition timing, and minimising valve train noise. Desirable advantages that do not diminish with time. The fiberglass reinforced belt eliminates the excessive stretch suffered by chain driven systems - even where a tensioner is used. The protracted control of cam and ignition timing maintains peak performance. Chain drives cause excessive timing scatter, even after relatively short periods of running. The MINI SPARES kit enables A-series owners to benefit from such technology. The adjustable cam gear in this kit allows up to 9 degrees of adjustment, facilitating accurate cam timing. An absolute must when installing a performance camshaft.

FITMENT: Remove the original timing cover. Position gears so that the timing marks on cam and crank gears are adjacent, then remove gears/chain assembly. Remove locating keys. Clean cam and crank gear boss surfaces, ensuring new gears are no more than a l

C-AJJ3363 - SPHERICAL ENDED ADJUSTABLE BOTTOM ARMS

These are to replace the standard bottom arms to facilitate easy adjustment of camber angles.

To fit, pace car safely on axle stands, remove front wheels to ease access, remove tie bar bolt where it joins the bottom arm, break bottom hub ball joint on outer end of arm, then remove the inner arm pivot pin. Adjust the spherical rod end by screwing in or out to set it to a similar length from the centre of the inner pivot point to the centre ...

MS73 - ADJUSTABLE REAR TRACK AND CAMBER BRACKETS FITTING INSTRUCTIONS.

To facilitate full experimentation in this area, the MS73 kit has been developed to allow accurate adjustment of rear wheel camber AND track. Adjustment of rear track can greatly influence the handling characteristics of the Mini. For reference, toe in gives straight-line performance/stability with more rear end grip (under-steer). Toe-out gives over-steer in corners, and less stability in a straight line - particularly under part/closed throttle conditions. Simple and effective caster/camber and tracking gauges are available from Mini Spares (Tool10 caster/camber gauge, TOOL11 tracking gauge) to facilitate DIY setting of geometry.

C-AJJ3360 - ON-CAR ADJUSTABLE ONE-PIECE FORGED BOTTOM ARM

Mini Spares has now further improved it's quality one-piece forged adjustable bottom front suspension arm to be on-car adjustable and accept all types of non-rod-end (Rose joint) bushings by including a purpose-forged trunnion.

Safety critical, the one-piece forging is of the highest quality; far stronger and with ultimate integrity compared with the now-ancient method of cutting/welding on of adaptors – a process that demands the most specialised equipment and skill to be sure of component integrity. Manufactured from a new forge tool, the bottom arm inner joint boss has been extended to accept a tube-nut adjuster that accepts the purpose-forged trunnion.

The tube nut allows easy adjustment of camber without needing to jack the car up and disassemble the suspension; the trunnion giving all Mini owners an option previously only available to racers – the capability of having fully adjustable suspension without the need to use spherical rod-ends. The trunni...

HILO - ADJUSTABLE MINI SUSPENSIONFITTING INSTRUCTIONS

Suitable for all Minis with “dry” rubber cone suspension, including vans, Travellers and Riley/ Wolseley saloons. General Information

These specialized and RAC FIA homologated suspension components are designed to allow the ride height of all Minis with “dry” suspension to be easily adjusted. In addition, the diameter of the rubber cone support lip is larger than the standard cone to increase effective spring rate. This makes them suitable for fitment in all the following cases:-

ROAD CARS - For load carrying and towing to optimise handling and adjustment.

RALLY CARS - Increase height for rough forestry stages then lower for smooth tarmac.

RACE CARS - Stiffen and lower the suspension as far as possible but can still be raised for bumpy circuits.

C-AJJ3360 On-car adjustable bottom arms and C-STR631 race spec bushes By K Calv...

Having put a season and a half of racing on these components I am suitably impressed. The bottom arm design is superb and the finished article extremely well made. The bushes are the icing on the cake.
Accurate suspension set-up is time consuming at the best of times, requiring dogged patience...

SUSPENSION - Basic set-up method

Time to arrange all those agonised over, carefully selected and applied suspension components to give of their best.

Suspension - Basic set-up method

part numbers: TOOL10, TOOL11, HILO, HILO-01

Time to arrange all those agonised over, carefully selected and applied suspension components to give of their best.

This is one of those subjects viewed as a ‘black art’, largely because of lack of understanding and confusion. The confusion part is because folk encompass the whole suspension set-up deal with suspension arrangement and design, lack of understanding instilling terror at the thought of ‘fiddling’ with the suspension components. The latter also fuelled by the knowledge that expensive specialist measuring equipment is needed. Well, there is no black art – you can work the magic. More a case of a long day...

SUSPENSION - Basic Priorities

Suspension - Basic priorities for improved suspension performance. Having studied the 'Suspension - Terminology' article you should now have a ‘job description’ understanding of previously possibly un-comprehended words associated with suspension control. Now - what to do with it? The first thing we need to establish is an order of priority before distributing hard-earned 'beer vouchers' in all directions. Fortunately, this is a good deal less complicated than is generally believed. Despite the five main factors that control the front suspension geometry – kingpin inclination, caster angle, camber angle, track, and bump-steer – we are only really able to alter three of those easily. King-pin inclination is non-adjustable, as it’s a feature of where the swivel-pins are mounted on the hub at the factory. It will alter as other adjustments are made, but we can do nothing easily about correcting/optimising it independently, as these are fixed in position on the swivel hub.

SHOCK ABSORBERS

Technical lowdown on shock absorbers,what to look for and what to buy Having introduced the fairly unknown Kayaba (KYB) range to the mini market in 1997 I am still amazed how gullible people are when buying cheap dampers. I have tried every type popular type available in the last 35 years, Armstrong including their adjustables, Girling, lockheed, Koni, Spax., Avo, Bilstein,Monroe,Boge,Gabriel and GMax The best to date were probably the very expensive special design Koni adjustables that we had built for the Monte Carlo rally. I also used the spare set on my 8 port car. You get what you pay for? For a non adjustable, Bilsteins rate highly although like the Koni specials are expensive, but you get what you pay for. The essence of a quality damper is to upgrade performance by using more sophisticated higher quality component build in the valving, piston, rod and seals etc along with a performance upgrade to improve the cars road holding.

CAM TIMING - Basic Notes

To avoid lots of swearing and unnecessary damage, check the timing gears slide neatly onto their respective bosses. If tight, first check for any high spots in the gear bores and key-way slots. Clean out using with fine emery cloth, medium Wet 'n' Dry paper, or some such. Remove the Woodruff keys then dress the bosses using abrasive material as mentioned previously. Re-check fitment before re-fitting keys. Check the key-ways and keys too before re-fitting. Get rid of unwanted sticky-out bits on the keys that would inhibit a slide fit. Clean out the key-way and de-burr top edges. I always file a slight 'flat' across them to give plenty of clearance to the gear key slot. If the pulley is a slack fit on the key, turn it anticlockwise before nipping the bolt up. ALWAYS fit it like this. It's imperative to fit cam (and followers in the case of solid wall blocks) following manufacturers instructions precisely using a good quality cam lube.

Brakes - Fitting Discs and Required Ancillaries

What you actually need for the disc/drum conversion is pretty straightforward. Disconnect the steering arms, top and bottom swivel-pins, CV joint, and flexible brake pipes at the subframe - that’s it. There are, however, a number of ancillaries to consider.

Basics

Basics Fitting discs designed for the Mini is easy enough. Just make sure you use CV gaiters for the disc-brake set-up - these have a different bellows shape to stop the gaiter rubbing the inside of the hub. The drum type will rub, then split, shedding grease all over the place. Moly grease is mighty mucky stuff to deal with and doesn't assist braking at all! A tip for racers - to stop the gaiters over-expanding when getting very hot and imitating the aforementioned, put either a decent sized split pin or (my favorite) a piece of very small bore pipe - as in the type supplied with WD40 aerosols, etc. - under the retaining strap on the drive shaft. This allows air to escape and return,

Brakes - Rear brake bias adjustment

When altering the front brake set-up away from the standard installation, it invariably alters the amount of rear brake bias needed to re-balance the cars brake balance.

The problems start occurring when folk graft alternative brake set-ups onto the front of their Minis. Be this 7.5" discs onto a previously drum-braked model, or going from current standard disc set-ups to one of the 4-pot varieties. The question then is 'what bore size rear wheel-cylinders do I need?' Unfortunately this isn't straightforward. Actually, that's not strictly true - more on this later. The pressure developed in the lines determines brake effectiveness - aside from disc size, pad type, co-efficient of friction, etc. that is. Understanding this may assist in choosing which way you should go for your particular set-up.

The basic facts you need to remember when dealing with brake pressures is how they are affected by the components you use.

GEARBOX - Limited Slip Diffs, what's available.

‘Salisbury’ is the word banded about by most un-enlightened folk when discussing LSDs for Minis, mistakenly believing the word covers all Mini orientated LSDs. This is grossly incorrect. Terminology - LSD - Limited Slip Differential The ‘Salisbury’ was designed in the ‘50s at a time when racecars were a good deal less sophisticated than today. Tyres were usually cross-ply with severely limited grip due to poor compounds developed ostensibly for rear-wheel-drive cars; the front wheel drive of the Mini being a rarity. And tracks were more than a little ‘bumpy’. Agriculturally built cars needed an LSD designed along similar lines; enter the Salisbury - effectively developed from a tractor diff. High static pre-loads were more than common to help compensate for severe short-falls in chassis, suspension, and tyre design. To all intents and purposes the diff was practically locked up, making the car a real beast to drive.

SUSPENSION GEOMETRY - Buy the right parts to do the job correctly

It is baffling to see so many companies advertising mini suspension geometry parts in kits that are a waste of time as they rarely complete the job on either the front or the rear.